Saturday, 31 December 2022

Highland Park 1991 Signatory Vintage 30th Anniversary 27 yo

 
 
 
52°
Distillery : Highland Park - Islands 
1st Fill Palo Cortado Sherry Butt
Independent Bottling 
By Signatory Vintage 
Limited Edition 
Single Cask 
Bottled in 2018
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured, Cask Strength
Peated around 20 ppm 
 
 
 
Celebrating 30 years of existence, bottler Signatory Vintage has released some totally indecent treasures, including this 27-year-old Highland Park, matured in a single cask of Palo Cortado Sherry, which is fairly rare. 545 bottles were put on sale, leaving as quickly as they arrived.




Let's Taste It : 
Apple crumble, quince jam with chunks inside, black earth, spruces, fermented gooseberries, dried raspberries, varnished wood and bacon bits sizzling on the stove. Vanilla cream, buttered bread, croutons rubbed with garlic, morello cherries and pineapple. The whole is amplified by an almost crispy iodine and a discreet but deep and earthy peat. Tart Tatin, genoise, chantilly, buckwheat pancakes. The finish is a little smoky, with soot mixed with liquorice and fudge. On the palate, cooked fruit squares, light spices, paprika, cumin, clove, nutmeg, pine needles, brown sugar in a dab of butter, eucalyptus honey, heather. Very slight bitterness from the wood. A drop of olive oil. Pieces of meringue and genoise. Dark chocolate. Long, dizzying finish that makes you see stars. Brown sugar, cola, diluted in tar and wood glue. Encaustic, chestnut cream, soft caramel. Liquorice roll. Pistachio and chestnut macaroons.
 
In Short, 
Sublime is a rather weak word to describe this masterpiece. I found it perfect in every way. Extremely fruity but also smoky, the peat is still present and accompanied by notes of leather and tar. Very full nose, incredible length on the finish, crazy richness on the palate, it's nirvana served in a glass. I would like to say to get one absolutely but not everyone wants to mortgage their house for a bottle.
Score : 92
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                           To Be Listened While Sipping :
 
                                           Ajeet Kaur - Tonancin

Highland Park 30 yo 2007

 
 
 
48,1°
Distillery : Highland Park - Islands 
2d Fill and Refill Sherry, American Bourbon Casks
Original Bottling 
Limited Edition 
Single Malt 
Bottled in 2007
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured, Cask Strength
Peated around 20 ppm 



It was apparently in 2005 that the first 30 year old was produced in Highland Park. It is a limited edition which was annual for a few years, before being spaced out in time (the last date from 2019). Very difficult to have indications on the maturation or the number of bottles produced. Still, the last copies are selling at exorbitant prices today.




Let's Taste It : 
A shade of iodine on a layer of plums and quince tart. Evanescent wisp of smoke. Deep, fat, whitish, earthy peat. The peat combines naturally with candied fruits, apricots, rhubarb and gentian. Very nice fruity fullness. Fudge, worm-wood, damp, almost pasty. Dates, dried figs. Honey and jam, with bits inside. Crushed hazelnuts, dried almonds. Shortbread biscuits. Cereal freshness. Iron filings. Iodine comes through at the end. Satiny, silky, iridescent palate. Fine spices, paprika, turmeric, cardamom. Wood liqueur, lychees, mountain honey, fig flesh, argan oil. Marrons glacés, spongy earth, truffle slivers. Dried bananas. Very long, fairly calm, serene finish. Nutmeg, chocolate chips, baked chestnuts. Warm apples. Birch bark. Coffee grounds.
 
In Short, 
An exceptional, subtle and distinguished bottling. What I liked was that the age didn't hide the character of the distillate at all, and barely the smoke. It's really magnificent, there is everything, the famous fudge, a very light delectable peat, shovelfuls of fruits. Everything is perfect. Unfortunately, the price is astronomical, I don't know whether to laugh or cry about it.
Score : 91
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                           To Be Listened While Sipping :
 
                                           John Butler - Ocean

Secret Orkney Distillery 2017 Wonders of the World Single Cask Series 1.08 4 yo

 
 
 
59,7°
Distillery : Highland Park - Islands
American Whiskey Cask and Palo Cortado Sherry Finish
Independent Bottling 
By Swell de Spirits
Limited Edition 
Single Cask 
Bottled in 2021
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured, Cask Strength
Peated around 20 ppm
 
 
 
Swell de Spirits is a very young French bottler which is on the rise, they mainly make Rum but also Whisky. This new product is renowned for its extreme youth. Only 4 years, and there is still a double maturation, it's bold. First in an American Whiskey cask, then in a Palo Cortado Sherry cask, a fairly rare white Sherry. The cask used is an Octave, whose particularity is to be small (about 80 liters), which allows more interaction with the wood and faster aging. Only 102 bottles were produced, which of course are already sold out.
 
 
 

Let's Taste It : 
Light and vinous nose, sweet red fruits, clafoutis, fruit salad, between papaya, mango, pineapple, kiwi and lychee. Soy sauce, discreet smoke a little charcoal-like. Noble wood, orange and quince marmalade, polish. Mineral and fruity palate, peaches, pears and other orchard fruits, then the spices rise, black pepper, nutmeg, ginger. More wood, a hint of salt and mint, gingerbread. Fairly long and juicy finish, slight bitterness, heather, cola, bark. Brown sugar.
 
In Short, 
When it was released, Serge Valentin and Ruben criticised this bottling for being too young and not to their taste. I find that a tad cruel. There are certainly some minor flaws, some spices that are a little strong, and a minerality that does a poor job of hiding the youthfulness. But on the whole, it's not bad at all. It's original and enjoyable. My criticism is that the distillery's hallmarks are somewhat lost, which is a shame. The price is also exaggerated given that it's a 50cl bottle. It's an interesting experience, but I'm not sure it justifies a purchase.
Score : 87
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                          To Be Listened While Sipping :
  
                                          Nils Frahm - Says

Strathisla 2007 Artist #12 Legendary Distilleries Aged 15 yo

 
 
 
62,7°
Distillery : Strathisla - Speyside
1st Fill Sherry Butt 
Independent Bottling 
By La Maison du Whisky 
Limited Edition 
Single Cask 
Bottled in 2022
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured, Cask Strength
Totally Unpeated 
 
 
 
I was told that Strathisla was famous for its Sherry bottlings from the 60s, so I am happy to finally taste something from this distillery aged in Sherry casks for 15 years, before being divided into 553 bottles where a very beautiful photo by Mathéo Modol can be seen. This is the 2nd youngest bottling of the Legendary Distilleries range, also referenced in Antipodes and Artist #12.




Let's Taste It : 
On the nose, chestnut cream, light red fruits, varnished wood, brown sugar, blood orange marmalade. Beautiful woody fullness, black earth, whole almonds, pomegranate syrup. Shards of dark chocolate, and at the bottom something tarry, deep. Beautiful, complex, intense on the palate, the red fruits are stronger, the spices are violent, cumin, black pepper, paprika, turmeric, nutmeg. Embers glow by the fireside. Finish that first envelops, to better explode afterwards, good length, but above all great power. Earthy charcoal, chestnuts in their pods, dripping liquorice. A drop of caramel.
 
In Short, 
Now I understand what people say about Strathisla. With Sherry, it's a different story, it's delicious, and it raises its profile. It's frankly magnificent, very well done, and full-bodied with the high alcohol content. The price is still inconceivably high, but I almost tend to forgive them this time.
Score : 90
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                           To Be Listened While Sipping :
 
                                           Howlin' Wolf - Back Door Man

Strathisla 2002 Artist #12 Legendary Distilleries Aged 20 yo




55,4°
Distillery : Strathisla - Speyside 
1st Fill Bourbon Barrel
Independent Bottling 
By La Maison du Whisky
Limited Edition 
Single Cask 
Bottled in 2022
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured, Cask Strength
Totally Unpeated



In the Legendary Distilleries 2022 range, I ask for the 20 year old. Dedicated to the little-known Strathisla distillery, this series of bottlings seeks to do it justice. After two very old expressions where the distillate was allowed to speak, here it is an ageing in a first fill Bourbon barrel. 192 bottles were produced, and adorned with a photo by Mathéo Modol. The whole range has also been awarded the Antipodes label, which means the exclusive selling from La Maison du Whisky, but apparently it is still possible to find it elsewhere abroad.
 
 
 

Let's Taste It : 
The nose is so wide that I feel I can detect iodine. But that's just the influence of the cask, I think. Pulpy, citrusy, juicy plums, mirabelles, greengages, lemon drizzle, grapefruit juice, blood oranges. Still with that lovely woodiness and almost sweet varnish. But this time more in the background. On the palate, it's the same story, fruity but not too much so, lemon and vanilla, noble wood. Properly managed spices. The finish is long, deep and earthy, with just a few citrus hints. Sun, cereals, nuts.
 
In Short, 
Very well done, like the previous ones. The Bourbon profile blends very well with the identity of the distillery, it gives a beautiful bottling, rich and woody, fruity. The price seems extravagant to me. I wonder what La Maison du Whisky is trying to do here. In any case, it has nothing to do with the love of whisky.
Score : 89
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                           To Be Listened While Sipping :
 
                                           Albert Collins - If Trouble was Money

Friday, 30 December 2022

Strathisla 1997 Artist #12 Legendary Distilleries Aged 25 yo

 
 
 
50°
Dustillery : Strathisla -Speyside
Refill Bourbon Hogshead
Independent Bottling
By La Maison du Whisky 
Limited Edition 
Single Cask
Bottled in 2022
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured, Cask Strength
Totally Unpeated
 
 
 
Second oldest bottling within this beautiful Legendary Distilleries range dedicated to Strathisla. This is a 25 year old distilled in 1997 and bottled this year, aged in a Bourbon Refill Hogshead, in order to leave room for the distillate. 269 bottles were put up for sale, with the bonus of a magnificent black and white photo of the distillery by Mathéo Modol




Let's Taste It : 
Once again, the nose is full-bodied and lemony, with a seductive woodiness, a few cereals and that original coating. Wood paint, citrus cloud, cherry wood table. The caress of wood. Lemonade. Grapefruit pulp. Full and intense on the palate, wood juice, on a light layer of vanilla, cream of milk. Green tea, discreet spices. Liquorice stick, some floral fragrances, jasmine, primrose. It's a bit sweet too. Long finish, all restrained modesty, coaly and earthy, chestnuts cooked over a wood fire. Sand and salt.

In Short, 
I found it quite close to the 30 yo, less intense, but sweetier. Very friendly and pleasant, very nuanced. What's less friendly is the price, maybe they're trying to break a record, I don't know.
Score : 89









                                           To Be Listened While Sipping :
 
                                           Akbert King - Blues Power

Strathisla 1991 Artist #12 Legendary Distilleries Over 30 yo

 
 
 
42,3°
Distillery : Strathisla - Speyside
Refill Bourbon Barrel
Independent Bottling 
By La Maison du Whisky 
Limited Edition 
Single Cask 
Bottled in 2022
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured, Cask Strength
Totally Unpeated
 
 
 
Strathisla is, according to my modest knowledge, a distillery that is not legendary. It is certainly very old, there is this little anecdote about its change of name in 1949 (it was called Milltown before), and I've heard there are stratospheric independent bottlings from the 60s. Okay, but on a daily basis, it is mainly used for Blends, and the only Single Malt in OB that comes out of its belly is very little known. Let's just say it's a distillery that's both legendary and underrated. Praise to La Maison du Whisky for putting it back in the spotlight thanks to this completely original mini-range released this year within the Artist #12 Legendary Distilleries. This is the very first time that the French bottler has tried this experiment. 5 different bottlings from the same distillery, at different ages and with different maturations. The occasion of a beautiful vertical, which I made upside down, excluding the 10 year old because I met a friend at that time. The oldest edition, the 30 year old, was aged in a Refill Bourbon barrel, in order to leave all the room for the distillate. Only 146 bottles were produced, adorned with a chiaroscuro photograph by Mathéo Modol.
 
 
 

Let's Taste It : 
Nose with a nice lemony breadth, candied lemon, lemon peel on the tip of the tongue, icing sugar, meringue, with a nice woody thickness, barley sugar, wood varnish, polish, some discreet white fruits, white plum, mirabelle. On the palate, very citrusy, very nice lemon accompanied by juicy grapefruit and one or two blood oranges, intense cereals, fatty wheat and malted barley, puffed rice and quinoa. Very long finish, cola and dry earth, some charcoal crumbs, but mostly citrus coulis in a woody fade, thick glue and beeswax.
 
In Short, 
Superb nose where the barrel leaves its mark, but without smothering the distillate, more discreet mouth, less impressive but very balanced and soft, beautiful finish extremely well done. It is a magnificent work that deserves to be congratulated. However the price is verging on the grotesque, it's a shame, but if there are people ready to pay this price, why not.
Score : 90
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                           To Be Listened While Sipping :
 
                                           John Lee Hooker - Blues Boogie Jam

Thursday, 29 December 2022

Bowmore 2001 Artist #12 Over 20 yo

 
 
 
54,8°
Distillery : Bowmore - Islay 
1st Fill Sherry Butt Finish
Independent Bottling 
By La Maison du Whisky 
Limited Edition 
Single Cask 
Bottled in 2022
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured, Cask Strength
Peated around 25 ppm 
 
 
 
This new Bowmore produced by La Maison du Whisky echoes the previous ones, Artist #7 but especially Artist #8 which followed a similar maturation. On the other hand, not a word about the first maturation, I guess that it is a Bourbon barrel, but I would have preferred a little transparency. 665 bottles are on sale, adorned with an illustration by Gesine Arps, which gives this range an artistic identity.
 
 
 

Let's Taste It : 
Very chiselled nose, between a fairly dry Sherry and a pronounced iodine. Dried fruits, raisins, apricots, cashew nuts, maritime fragrances, sea spray, kelp, seaweed, fish. Apple crumble, genoise, with herbal and earthy notes. Oily on the palate, seawater, oysters, shellfish, and a few sweet fruits, chocolate pear, lychee. Almonds, toffee. Soft spices, paprika, cardamom. It's warm, black tea, clove. Very long finish, gently explosive, spicy, coaly, amplified by hints of liquorice and banana. Chicory. Nutmeg.
 
In Short, 
A very nice bottling, which seduced me. The Sherry brings a magnificent complexity to a Bowmore whose identity is tremendously clear, very iodized and maritime. It is beautiful work. The price, on the other hand, is absolutely apoplectic. At first, I thought it was a joke, but no.
Score : 90
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                           To Be Listened While Sipping :
 
                                           Deep Sea Diver - Wide Awake

Ledaig 2005 Artist #12 Over 15 yo

 
 
 
64,8°
Distillery : Tobermory - Islands 
Refill Sherry Butt 
Independent Bottling 
By La Maison du Whisky 
Limited Edition 
Single Cask 
Bottled in 2022
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured, Cask Strength
Peated around 37 ppm
 
 
 
Released as part of the Artist #12 range by La Maison du Whisky, this well-peated Ledaig has the particularity of being very high in alcohol. Few angels'share with these almost 65° of alcohol. This will perhaps be softened by the ageing in a single Sherry cask. 456 bottles were produced, and put on sale with a beautiful illustration concocted by Gesine Arps, the artist chosen to personify this batch.
 
 
 

Let's Taste It : 
Nose with a wax-like effect, the Sherry curiously combines with this strong charcoal peat, medicinal and plasticky. Notes of raspberries, Belle-Hélène pears, a few gooseberries, and the swell laden with marine humidity, heavy undergrowth, motor oil, hazelnuts with their shells. The palate is just too strong, and yet I've added water. Quite coastal, it releases notes of red fruits, blackberries, blackcurrants, with a tarry background, thick herbaceous peat. Explosive spices, cumin, cloves, nutmeg. On chicory, then the marine flavours return. Atomic finish, more explosive than long, but it doesn't scrape the gullet, it remains civilised. Cola, earth, humus, liquorice, coffee, burnt onions.
 
In Short, 
This Ledaig is really something, I tell you. It's very interesting, very good at times, but I found it a bit too rough. Good quality, boldness, originality, but the balance could be better. It remains a very nice dram overall, which will certainly delight fans. The price slaps your face even stronger than the product itself.
Score : 89
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                           To Be Listened While Sipping :
 
                                           NOFX - Doors and Fours

Clynelish 1990 Artist #12 Over 30 yo c. 3477

 
 
 
47,7°
Distillery : Clynelish - Highlands
Bourbon Barrel
Independent Bottling 
By La Maison du Whisky
Limited Edition 
Single Cask 
Bottled in 2022
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured, Cask Strength
Almost Unpeated
 
 
 
La Maison du Whisky's annual Artist range is becoming greater every year, since the first in 2011. Here It starts strong with this Clynelish aged at least 31 years old in a single Bourbon barrel. The 137 bottles produced are adorned with an illustration by Gesine Arps, a German artist chosen to give this Batch an identity.
 
 
 

Let's Taste It : 
Intense nose of rubbed lemon and iodine. The strength of the tide on a northern beach, with salt and foam, kelp and seaweed. All accompanied by a zest of white fruits and citrus. A marine depth, oyster milk, fried fish, with a few herbaceous and earthy notes. The palate is very successful, with a fine balance between lemon and mandarin on the one hand, and the saline profile on the other. Very light spices, cloves and cardamom. A pinch of cinnamon. The finish is at the same level, long, coaly, not too strong, it knows how to hold its own. Earthy, with brown sugar. Bay leaf, thyme.
 
In Short, 
A rather monstrous Clynelish I must say, but I didn't feel the very famous waxy touch. Very coastal, so much so that it is surprising, the distillery is close to the sea, but not right next to it. I am curious to know where the cask has been stored. I found it very pleasant and original but at no time does it justify the price, which is astronomical.
Score : 89
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                           To Be Listened While Sipping :
 
                                          Mike Oldfield - Tubular Bells

Wednesday, 28 December 2022

Port Charlotte 2004 Rest & Be Thankful Whisky Co. 17 yo

 
 
 
59,7°
Distillery : Bruichladdich - Islay
Sherry Hogshead
Independent Bottling 
By Rest & Be Thankful Whisky Company 
Limited Edition 
Single Cask 
Bottled in 2022
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured, Cask Strength
Peated around 40 ppm
 
 
 
Founded in 2012 by former representatives of the Bruichladdich distillery, the trading company Rest & Be Thankful Whisky Co. has maintained strong ties with it. This is why this almost 18-year-old Port Charlotte, distilled in October 2004 and bottled in September 2022, is an important step in their journey. Ageing is done only in a Sherry Hogshead and the number of bottles produced is not disclosed. La Maison du Whisky, which sells it exclusively, has granted to it the Antipodes label, for a reason that seems obvious once you have tasted it.
 
 
 

Let's Taste It : 
Soot and tropical fruits, papaya, kiwi, kumquat, passion fruit, fuel oil and gas oil. Beautiful iodized breadth, tobacco, dried fruits, grapes and apricots, full ashtray. The peat is thick and intense. Red berries, raspberry coulis, gooseberries. Vinous, very fruity and ashy palate. Mango, Muscat grapes, juicy peaches and pears. Quite robust spices, paprika, turmeric, nutmeg, cardamom, cumin. Heather. Underground lake, some rocks. Finish which flies away, never-ending and explosive. Red fruits, blackberries, blueberries, blackcurrants, charcoal shards, wormwood. Nuts.
 
In Short, 
A masterpiece, and for me the summit of the last Whisky Live. A bottling to have absolutely if you are a fan of the genre, and I admit that I am. The price is terribly high, but despite that, I think about it.
Score : 91
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                           To Be Listened While Sipping :
 
                                           Angus and Julia Stone - Yellow Brick Road

Tuesday, 27 December 2022

Ardbeg 2004 The Character of Islay Whisky Company 15 yo

 
 
 
54,9°
Distillery : Ardbeg - Islay
Refill Bourbon Barrel
Independent Bottling 
By The Character of Islay Whisky Company
Limited Edition 
Single Cask 
Bottled in 2020
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured, Cask Strength
Peated around 54 ppm
 
 
 
The Character of Islay Whisky Compagny is a very young independent bottler which appeared in 2019 under the leadership of Atom Brands, also owner of That Boutique-y, Drinks by the Dram, Darkness... And even the online sales site Master of Malt. Within 'The Stories of Wind and Wave' range, they sell premium Single Casks sourced only from the Isle of Islay. Here a very nice 15 year old Ardbeg aged in a single second fill Bourbon cask, which should give the full measure of the distillate. The number of bottles produced is 166 according to the Hard to Find Whisky website, but the bottle pictured here is numbered 167, so there must be a bit more.
 
 
 

Let's Taste It : 
Huge explosion in the nose and in the mouth. The peat insinuates itself into all the orifices within its reach. Smoky, ashy, vegetal, grassy. With a touch of minerality and seaweed. Greenish waves, tide, foam, kelp. Citrus hints, then come exotic fruits, banana, papaya, passion fruit, pineapple. Palm heart. Clementine. Grape whose juice squirts. Sandy beach, the sea recedes. Shells, knives, whelks. The palate is more vanilla-like, but remains very coastal, seafood, fish, escabèche sauce, bouillabaisse. Beautiful spices, black pepper, cumin, nutmeg. Charcoal, which holds its own on the finish, very long, very well done, a whale stranded on the shore, gravel, liquorice, vergeoise coulis. Cashew nut.
 
In Short, 
Excellent bottling, it's the quintessence of Ardbeg, its exact DNA, and in addition it is very violent. Just the mouth is very slightly below, it's a shame because the nose and the finish are perfect, precisely what I expect from an Ardbeg aged in a Bourbon barrel. I believe that with this maturation, and at this age, you can hardly do better. It is still found on some sites, the price is certainly very high, but it corresponds to the market unfortunately.
Score : 90
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                           To Be Listened While Sipping :
 
                                           Motörhead - Born to Raise Hell

Octomore 2011 The Character of Islay Whisky Company 9 yo

 
 
 
50°
Distillery : Bruichladdich - Islay 
1st Fill Bourbon Barrel 
Independent Bottling 
By The Character of Islay Whisky Company 
Limited Edition 
Single Cask 
Bottled in 2020
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured, Cask Strength
Heavily Peated
 
 
 
At The Character of Islay Whisky Company, a trading company created in 2019 within Atom Brands, only the nectar of the mythical island is allowed. And when it comes to Octomore, that of course attracts attention. For this bottling, the juice was kept in a first fill Bourbon cask for 9 years before being released into the wild in 315 copies within the 'The Stories of Wind and Wave' range. It is indeed presented as a cask strength, even if the alcohol content at precisely 50° may seem suspicious. The peat content is not known.
 
 
 

Let's Taste It : 
Very creamy, syrupy, well-bourboned nose, with pear pulp and sweet vanilla. Nice intense peat, gritty, almost solid smoke, chalky charcoal, oozing limestone, mineral and grainy touches. Iodine, shortbread biscuits, black earth. Light floral touches. Palate a little watery, light, but very well made, complex, on vanilla, lemon, with a good slice of peat which seems candied, tart tatin, sooty roots. Strong but managed spices, cumin, paprika, star anise. brown sugar. Long, excellent, explosive finish, everything you expect from an Octomore, charcoal, earth, some sunny cereals, mint leaves.
 
In Short, 
It's very good, the finish especially is powerful and pleasant, almost devastating but comfortable at the end. On the other hand, the nose is a little too Bourbon for my taste and hides the Octomore hallmarks, and the palate is light. It's a shame, but it's still a very nice bottling, the price of which is frankly overvalued.
Score : 89
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                           To Be Listened While Sipping :
 
                                           Lovebites - Holy War

SMWS 2013 16.70 The Green-Fingered Blacksmith 8 yo

 
 
 
63,5°
Distillery : The Glenturret - Highlands
Refill Re-Charred Bourbon Hogshead
Independent Bottling 
By The Scotch Malt Whisky Society 
Limited Edition 
Single Cask 
Bottled in 2022
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured, Cask Strength
Peated from 80 to 120 ppm



What they like to do at the Scotch Malt Whisky Society, a trading company founded in 1983 by Pip Hills, is experimenting. For example, here we have a heavily peated Glenturret aged for only 8 years in a Re-Charred cask, that is to say passed a second time to the blowtorch before receiving the liquid. The peated Glenturret exists, it is even part of their Core Range. But it only claims 20 ppm at most. It was in 2009 that the very peaty experience was launched at Glenturret. They dry the barley with peat for three days, which gives a result that ranges from 80 to 120 ppm. The first bottlings of this nectar came out around 2018, but only independently, under the name Ruadh Maor, which would mean Red House in Gaelic. This is the secret of this 16.70, it should not be called Glenturret, but Ruadh Maor. I do not know the number of bottles put on sale.
 
 
 

Let's Taste It : 
Nose where charcoal takes a large part, it is significant but does not mask a certain sweetness, cream, genoise and braised blood oranges. Fruits from the orchard, green apples, Comice pears, on a cereal and earthy layer that is quite rustic. Lime, plastic, and some medicinal fragrances. In the mouth, it's successful, on grilled meat, with tomato sauce, the spices are rather strong, curry, black pepper, cumin, cloves. Once again, it's earthy and almost astringent. Long, thick, robust finish, it's like biting into lignite, pencil lead, mushrooms, loam.
 
In Short, 
Typical of the Highlands, very earthy and rural, and heavily peated, it reminds me a bit of Benriach, but bolder and more successful. It's all very interesting. This bottling is of course nowhere to be found, sold out a few days after its release, but I will be watching Ruadh Maor more closely from now on.
Score: 89
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                           To Be Listened While Sipping :
 
                                           Samantha Fish - Shake'em on Down

Monday, 26 December 2022

SMWS 2010 53.410 Smoked Sea Salt Liquorice 11 yo

 
 
 
56,9°
Distillery : Caol Ila - Islay 
Refill Ex-Bourbon Hogshead
Independent Bottling 
By The Scotch Malt Whisky Society 
Limited Edition 
Single Cask 
Bottled in 2022
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured, Cask Strength
Peated around 35 ppm
 
 
 
Already the 410th bottling of Caol Ila at the Scotch Malt Whisky Society, a trading company and also a club founded in 1983 by Pip Hills. This time it's an 11 year old, aged in a single Bourbon Hogshead, released in 270 bottles, and quickly sold out, as usual. This is an exclusive bottling, intended solely for La Maison du Whisky as part of its Antipodes range.
 
 
 

Let's Taste It : 
Coal, soot, tide, sea spray, waves whipping across the face, kelp and seaweed. Iodine by shovelful. Very large fullness. A cathedral of iodine. A drizzle of vanilla lemon. Pepper and cloves. The waves rock us. Medicinal touch, dressings, bandages, disinfectant. On the palate, oysters and Bourbon, crayfish, scallops, whelks, vanilla and pastry cream. Spices just the way it should be, cumin, ginger. Very nice finish, long and explosive, a mirabelle plum melts under the tongue and shards of filthy lignite. Icing sugar and sea water. Raisin Chasselas.
 
In Short, 
This is pure essence of Caol Ila. At the heart of its backbone. Caol Ila from Caol Ila. In the spinal nerve. It's terribly good. Just a few fruity elements. The rest is only the intensity of a distillery that has no equal. How can it be sold out? This bottling is in the public interest, it should be available for eternity.
Score : 90
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                           To Be Listened While Sipping :
 
                                          Screaming Trees - Julie Paradise

Caol Ila 2011 Valinch & Mallet The Peat(y)ful Pack Madness 10 yo

 
 
 
52,6°
Distillery : Caol Ila - Islay 
Ex-Bourbon Cask and Entre-Deux-Mers Bordeaux Wine Barrique Finish
Independent Bottling 
By Valinch & Mallet Limited
Limited Edition 
Single Cask 
Bottled in 2021
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured, Cask Strength
Peated around 35 ppm
 
 
 
Back to real peat for the last bottling of this The Peat(y)ful Pack Madness range by Valinch & Mallet launched at the very beginning of 2022 within its wider range The Spirit of Art. Here is a Caol Ila which spent the first two years of its life in a classic Bourbon cask before being transferred to a Bordeaux wine cask of the Entre-Deux-Mers, which are dry or sweet white wines produced near the Gironde estuary. After 8 years of this second maturation, the result was deposited in 374 different bottles, with a beautiful illustration by the great artist Laura Paperina on the label.
 
 
 

Let's Taste It : 
Typical Caol Ila hallmarks, iodine, sea breeze, ashy peat, foam, kelp, vaporous smoke, fishes, combined with a syrupy profile, velvety, slightly fermented red fruits, blueberries, blackberries, gooseberries, raspberries, forest berries, thyme, heather, earth and spices. Very balanced mouth, between vanilla, spices and seaweed, paprika, cardamom, a grain of mustard, pastry cream, a square of milk chocolate. Very long finish, well made, explosive, syrupy, sour cherries, prunes, nutmeg, earthy dark chocolate, acorns and hazelnuts.

In Short, 
This time it's totally successful. A bottling that makes the distillate speak as much as the cask is rare. There they coexist and compete in various flavours, as contradictory as they are complementary, to produce a particularly original and tasty juice. Undoubtedly the best success of this range. It was noticed, because everything was sold very quickly, and today there are only a few copies on the secondary market at a price that hurts the rear end.
Score : 90









                                           To Be Listened While Sipping :
 
                                           Polyphia - Ego Death

Ardmore 2009 Valinch & Mallet The Peat(y)ful Pack Madness 12 yo

 
 
 
52,2°
Distillery : The Ardmore -Speyside
Ex-Bourbon Cask and Ex-Faraon Oloroso Sherry Finish
Independent Bottling 
By Valnch & Mallet Limited
Limited Edition 
Single Cask 
Bottled in 2021
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured, Cask Strength
Peated around 12 ppm
 
 
 
The Peat(y)ful Pack Madness range would belong to another, larger range within Valinch & Mallet, called The Spirit of Art, the principle  of which is to illustrate a bottle of whisky with a contemporary work of art. Here the bottles are adorned with the delirious and provocative images of Laura Paperina, an internationally renowned artist. But what interests us the most is inside the bottle, it is some Ardmore distilled in 2009 and aged for 8 and a half years in a Bourbon cask before being transferred for the next three and a half years in an Oloroso Sherry cask from the famous Faraon brand. The result was distributed among 338 different bottles before going on sale in early January 2022.
 
 
 

Let's Taste It : 
Very successful nose, both creamy and filled with dried fruits, grapes, apricots, dates, figs. Some red fruits are present too, but discreet, raspberries, blackberries. Stretched leather. Well integrated smoke into the whole, light. Vanilla eclair, genoise. On the palate, it's still sweet and creamy, but also quite spicy, turmeric, cumin, cloves, black pepper. Heather, black earth, and a nice rather long finish to complete it all, charcoal, forestry, on chestnuts and pine cones. Again some red fruits, blueberries, blackcurrants, stick of liquorice in retro-olfaction.
 
In Short, 
I was wondering why only a sherry cask finish, why not full maturation ? But I must admit that it is very well done. My small reservation is that Ardmore peat is still very light, you can barely feel it. So, does it have its place in a range dedicated to it ? The question arises, frankly. The distilleries which combine peat and Sherry very effectively are known, Bowmore, Ardbeg and others, but perhaps these gentlemen from Valinch & Mallet wanted peat from the Highlands? Apart from that, the price is still high, and besides, this is perhaps the reason why this bottling is still available on quite a few sites. Not quite Sherry, not quite peaty, not quite Ardmore either, as the distillate is a bit hidden, and quite expensive though, I'm not sure I would advise buying.
Score : 88
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                           To Be Listened While Sipping :
 
                                           BSI - Jelly Belly

Sunday, 25 December 2022

Ledaig 2008 Valinch & Mallet The Peat(y)ful Pack Madness 13 yo

 
 
 
52,4°
Distillery : Tobermory - Islands
Bourbon Barrel 
Independent Bottling 
By Valinch & Mallet Limited
Limited Edition 
Single Cask 
Bottled in 2021
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured, Cask Strength 
Peated around 37 ppm



Within this new range The Peat(y)ful Pack Madness, launched by Valinch & Mallet during the first days of 2022, this Ledaig embodies the classic part. The idea is that, among the 4 bottlings of the range, each must have its own maturation. And for the trivial aging in a Bourbon barrel, it's Ledaig which sticks to it. 13 years of waiting, and the result is presented in the form of 303 bottles, with an illustration of Laurina Paperina, supposed to evoke the frenzy linked to a budding idea in a field that fascinates you, whisky by example.




Let's Taste It : 
Very controlled nose, with the influence of Bourbon combining very well with the peat from the Isle of Mull. Whiffs of smoke, burnt plastic, motor oil, and at the same time icing sugar, genoise, squeezed lemon. On the palate, blood oranges, fairly strong spices, turmeric, paprika, cumin, ginger, black tea, thick, spongy, stringy peat, a little mineral. Long, explosive, medicinal finish. Ether, iodine, bandages, coal and dust. Muddy sand. This an apotheosis.

In Short, 
Superb, classic, perfectly managed, I can't stop praising this beautiful bottling, both traditional and bold, because the Bourbon influence is important. Congratulations to the bottler, great job. What I like less is the price, which is completely disproportionate. Some will tell me this is the law of the market.
Score : 89









                                           To Be Listened While Sipping:
 
                                           The Smiths - Barbarism Begins at Home

South Shore 2008 Valinch & Mallet The Peat(y)ful Pack Madness 13 yo

 
 
 
52,9°
Distillery : Lagavulin - Islay 
Ex-Boubon Cask and Rum Caroni Finish
Independent Bottling 
By Valinch & Mallet Limited
Limited Edition 
Single Cask 
Bottled in 2021
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured, Cask Strength
Peated around 38 ppm
 
 
 
In this new range called The Peat(y)ful Pack Madness which was released in January 2022, this South Shore is in fact a Lagavulin, no need to keep the suspense any longer. The particularity is that, after having staid for more than 8 years in a classic Bourbon barrel, it followed a second maturation in a Caroni Rum cask for nearly 5 years. Caroni is a rum distillery located in Trinidad and Tobago closed in 2003, and since its closure it has been the object of a cult to such an extent that we will soon be able to compare it to Brora or Port Ellen. Therefore, the 292 bottles produced were quickly sold out. The label is illustrated by the artist Laura Paperina, it is a universe both surreal and from the comics of our childhood.
 
 
 

Let'sTasteIt : 
Very sweet on the nose, so much so that it's amazing with Lagavulin's peat and character. The peat is smoky, boggy and stony, but it's also smooth and as if tamed by the Rum. A few fish sneak through the mire. Seafood. Nice sugary fullness, cane sugar, reeds, candied rhubarb. Some white fruits, plums, grapes, banana. Very suave and silky on the palate. Rose Loukoum. Fruits take flight, lemon, papaya, maracuja. Spices not too invasive, cumin, nutmeg, grey pepper. Thick peat. Long, beautiful finish, well crafted, with earth and gravel, charcoal, limestone, Greengages. Liquid honey. Scallops.
 
In Short, 
I have to admit that I was a little apprehensive about trying it, as the rum-whisky combination rarely works for me. But here, it's perfectly executed, it's a very fine piece of work. The peat is softened, and the fruits are increased tenfold. It's not too sweet, that's fine. On the other hand, the price hurts, but who cares, since it's already sold out everywhere. They should have sold it for even more, in fact.
Score : 89
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                           To Be Listened While Sipping :
 
                                          Of Monsters and Men - Lakehouse

Bunnahabhain 2013 Valinch & Mallet The Young Masters Edition 9 yo

 
 
 
52,8°
Distillery : Bunnahabhain - Islay 
Sherry Cask 
Independent Bottling 
By Valinch & Mallet Limited
Limited Edition 
Single Cask 
Bottled in 2022
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured, Cask Strength
Almost Unpeated
 
 
 
A young Bunnahabhain aged in a Sherry cask always does well in a collection. Here it is The Young Masters Edition, so don't expect some venerable juice. Only 378 bottles are put on sale, exclusively for the Scottish market it seems. We already know it's going to be hard to find.
 
 
 

Let's Taste It : 
Pleasant, liquorous nose, with a fine Sherry influence. Hazelnuts, fig and raspberry jam, dried apricots, muscat grapes. Forest berries, undergrowth, tree bark, vegetable moss, pine needles. It's also a bit sweet, with genoise and marzipan. Very round and well-balanced on the palate. Fruity, of course, with a hint of candied fruits. Spices under control, paprika, saffron, nutmeg. Very long finish, Vieille Prune, blackberry coulis, hint of blackcurrant, black earth, just the right amount of power. Charcoal, hot chestnuts.
 
In Short, 
Even young Bunnahabhains go very well with Sherry, here it is reminiscent of an old red fruits liqueur, with beautiful spices, a pure Christmas whisky, where the fruits are candied, braised, rather than simply served. A very nice expression, I found it on Italian sites at an acceptable price, elsewhere they're laughing at us, it's nonsense.
Score : 90
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                           To Be Listened While Sipping :
 
                                           Allison Russel - Nightflyer