Saturday 30 September 2023

A Highland Distillery 2008 The Single Malts of Scotland Reserve Casks 12 yo

 
 
 
48°
Distillery Officially Unknown - Highlands
3 Ex-Sherry Butts
Independent Bottling 
By Elixir Distillers
Limited Edition 
Single Malt 
Bottled in 2021
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured
Totally Unpeated
 
 
 
As part of Parcel n°7 of the Reserve Casks sub-range within The Single Malts of Scotland, this Highland is stingy on information. The distillery is unknown (according to rumours, it could be Blair Athol, or perhaps Clynelish, but I'd be surprised if it's the latter), and there's nothing on the number of bottles produced. What we do know is that it's not chill-filtered, and that's the main thing.
 
 
 

Let's Taste It : 
A drop of Sherry, but it's very measured. Woody, earthy, figs, dates and wild strawberries. Chocolate fondant, a pinch of cinnamon, some walnuts. Lots of dried fruits on the palate, from apricots to apples, grapes of course, but also bananas and pineapple. Crushed quinces, slightly candied. Foresty, with holly leaves and moss. Rises to rich and various spices, nutmeg, pepper, cloves. The finish is slightly shorter, quite long, but not very explosive, wood and chocolate, earth, humus.

In Short, 
As always with this collection, this is top quality. A foresty, fruity profile, a daily dram of choice at a decent price. The only disappointment is not knowing the origin of this pleasant liquid. That's why it's not suitable for a blind tasting.
Score : 87









                                           To Be Listened While Sipping :
                                            Buster Benton - Money is the Name of the Game

Amrut 2014 Special Limited Edition Ex-Caroni c. 5143

 
 
 
60° 
Distillery : Amrut - India
Ex-Caroni Rum Cask
Original Bottling 
Limited Edition 
Single Cask 
Bottled in 2020
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured
Almost Unpeated
 
 
 
Amrut and Caroni, who thought of it first? This bottling, launched exclusively on the French market by La Maison du Whisky via its French Connections label, is a fine marketing operation. It's aged entirely in a Single Cask from the legendary distillery, which closed in 2010. Only 156 bottles were produced. It is highly likely that the juice is 6 years old, but this is not absolutely certain, as both the distillation and bottling took place in August. On the other hand, this is not a Cask Strength, as all Amrut Special Limited Edition casks are 60°. They are single casks, so it is impossible to modulate the alcohol content by crossing the casks. So water has been added. Not to be confused with the Cask 5144, distilled the same year, but bottled in 2021, also aged in a Single Caroni cask.   
 
 
 

Let's Taste It : 
The sweetness of rum. Icing sugar, reeds, beetroot, vanilla bean, exotic wood. Behind, the character of Amrut, spices, tinder and mahogany, Armenian paper, clove. Grassy and satiny, earthy, with roots, tubers, cucurbits and a hint of chalk. Rougher on the palate, frosted lemon, a chalky hint of iodine and peat, fairly strong spices, cumin and cloves, a long, punchy finish, cinnamon and parsley, honeysuckle, chlorophyll. Humus. Dark and damp earth.
 
In Short, 
The influence of the Caroni cask makes a very beautiful nose, so magnificent that at first I thought I was drinking real rum. The Amrut identity then emerges, and is more prominent on the palate, which remains young and not very complex. The finish, on the other hand, is deep and rich. It's a little more than a curiosity, it's really interesting and enjoyable. There are a few minor flaws, though. The price is too high in my opinion, that must also be the influence of the Caroni cask.
Score : 88 


 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                           To Be Listened While Sipping :
 
                                           Anoushka Shankar - Bhairavi

Friday 29 September 2023

Glenglassaugh 12 yo

 
 
 
45° 
Distillery : Glenglassaugh - Highlands
Bourbon, Sherry and Red Wine Casks
Original Bottling 
Core Range 
Single Malt 
Launched in 2023
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured
Totally Unpeated
 
 
 
The launch of this 12-year-old is a small event, there hasn't been a Glenglassaugh with an age statement in the Core Range since the 1980s. A symbol of rebirth and renewal, it is the work of Rachel Barrie, hired in 2017 by the group that owns the distillery, Brown-Foreman. Triple maturation for the occasion, to delve into the complexity.
 
 
 

Let's Taste It : 
Rather Oloroso, this Sherry. Bark, elastic, quince jam, candied apricots, raspberries, gooseberries, cranberries, cinnamon, heather in the background, lovely exotic woodiness. The palate is a bit light but very fruity, with plums of all colours, morello cherries, sultanas, figs and dates, tannins, spices with a certain breadth, nutmeg, cardamom, white pepper. The finish is grand and long, with caramel and charcoal, dead leaves, black earth and warm chestnuts. Cola. 

In Short, 
I didn't smell much of the red wine casks, but the Sherry was clearly present. Perfectly mastered as usual, fine work by Rachel Barrie, reminiscent of Benriach's 12 year old, but even fruitier. One small reservation: I felt that the distillery's hallmarks were a little lost in this complex maturation. It's a shame. However, this remains a very good bottling, at a very competitive price, and a purchase would be wise.
Score : 87
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                           To Be Listened While Sipping :
 
                                           Current Joys - A Different Age

Wednesday 27 September 2023

Glenglassaugh Sandend

 
 
 
50,5° 
Distillery : Glenglassaugh - Highlands
Bourbon, Sherry and Manzanilla Casks 
Original Bottling 
Core Range 
Single Malt 
Launched in 2023
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured
Totally Unpeated



To be launched in 2023, the new Glenglassaugh range is intended to mark a revival of the distillery. Its creator is Rachel Barrie, who was hired by Brown-Foreman in 2017 and has already completely overhauled the regular Benriach range. This Sandend, in the same vein as its predecessor Evolution, bears witness to the costal character of the distillery, and thanks to the Sherry and Manzanilla casks, a tropical sweetness can be found that should appeal. It appears to be non-chill-filtered and free of colourings, but it's still a NAS, I would have preferred an age count.




Let's Taste it : 
Beautiful lemon and vanilla sweetness, white plums and mirabelles, braised pineapple, papaya and guava, passion fruit, there's no shortage of citrus or exoticism. Almost crystalline barley sugar, ethereal. A beach at low tide, sea spray, damp sand, a pinch of salt. Beautiful balance. The palate is spicy, iodised, with notes of apple and lychee. Again, it's mellow, but complements well the sea breeze. The finish is grainy, quite long and just rightly explosive, with lemon zest, dry earth, gentle saltiness, gravel and limestone.
 
In Short, 
A successful marriage between the smoothness of the casks and the costal profile of the distillate. Well done, once again. This Sandend is typical of the distillery, more mature than the Evolution or the Revival, and a purchase would be entirely appropriate provided it can be found at a reasonable price.
Score : 87
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                            To Be Listened While Sipping :
 
                                           Grandaddy - He's Simple, He's Dumb, He's the Pilot

Monday 25 September 2023

Indri Trini

 
 
 
46°
Distillery : Piccadilly - India
1st Fill Bourbon, Ex-French Wine and Pedro Ximénez Sherry Casks
Original Bottling 
Core Range 
Single Malt 
Launched in 2022
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured
Totally Unpeated
 
 
 
A brand new whisky from India. The Piccadilly distillery has been in existence since 1967, but it wasn't until 2012 that they acquired 6 stills. Ten years later, the triple-matured Trini was born, apparently aged for 6 years. The barley used is local and harvested by hand, and the water is spring water from the Himalayas. But the distillery is located near Delhi, which is a little less idyllic.
 
 
 

Let's Taste It : 
Nose full of character, mellow, ripe grapes, mirabelle plums, candied vanilla, very light smoke, Granny Smith apple. Almond paste, sandalwood leaf. Mint and cardamom. Slightly smooth palate, varnished exotic wood, fruity, citrus, vinous pineapple, macerated lemon, slightly acidic, Conference pear, then some strong spices, nutmeg, turmeric, cloves, cinnamon. Long finish, walnuts and hazelnuts, clay, green tea, herbaceous hints. Honeysuckle. Sage.
 
In Short, 
Surprising for a daily dram, the nose and finish really have a personality of their own. On the palate, however, I found it a little light, but on the whole it deserves the attention of any enlightened enthusiast. The value for money deserves respect.
Score : 86
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                           To Be Listened While Sipping :
 
                                           Francesco Pariset - Medicina del Perdon

Sunday 24 September 2023

Linkwood 2007 House of McCallum Vintage 15 yo

 
 
 
50,5°
Distillery : Linkwood - Speyside 
Ruby Port Finish
Independent Bottling 
By House of McCallum 
Limited Edition 
Single Malt 
Bottled in 2022
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured, Cask Strength
Totally Unpeated



This Linkwood, a blend of two casks finished in Ruby Port, is typical of House of McCallum, which doesn't shy away from experimentation. However, there is still no indication of the first maturation or the length of the finish. One website says it's cask strength, but there's no confirmation of this either.
 
 
 

Let's Taste It :
The classic profile of a Port finish: damsons, tobacco, lingonberries, a dash of charcoal, heather earth, forest undergrowth, ferns, a few acorns and creepers, but this time it's softer, rounder, with raspberry jelly, drops of honey and nuts. Very beautiful on the palate, smooth and silky, complex, the red fruits combine with a fine woodiness, varnished mahogany, Armenian paper, a bunch of white grapes. The spices are rich without being too intense. The finish is strong and long, back in the forest, I can almost hear the twigs crackling under my feet. Chestnuts, damp black earth, autumn leaves.
 
In Short, 
It's quite a success, the Port imposes its mark without being heady, but the distillery's profile is a bit lost in this, I'd have liked more fruits, a variety that can only be found in this distillery. Moreover, the price seems extravagant to me, for a bottle that is not a Single Cask.
Note : 88
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                           To Be Listened While Sipping :
 
                                           Daniel Castro - I'll Play the Blues for You

Friday 22 September 2023

Blair Athol 2011 House of McCallum Vintage 11 yo

 
 
 
55,5°
Distillery : Blair Athol - Highlands
1st Fill Bourbon Cask 
Independent Bottling 
By House of McCallum
Limited Edition 
Single Cask 
Bottled in 2022
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured, Cask Strength
Totally Unpeated
 
 
 
Anthony McCallum took this first-fill Bourbon cask, which now contains Blair Athol, and let it simply blossom for 11 years. For once, there was no strange experiment, proving that the house knows how to moderate itself when it needs to. Only 140 bottles were filled, and reserved for the Belgian market, for the Spiritus Sanctus festival, for which this bottling was specially made.




Let's Taste It : 
The nose is soft and round on the whole, honeyed, with mirabelle plums and a hint of earthy astringency and whitewash. Rich cereals, miesli, very light vanilla, really mellow on the palate, with all sorts of fresh grapes and plums, a bit of pastry cream and barley sugar, discreet spices, a dash of lemon meringue behind. The finish, on the other hand, is robust, with rye and genoise, dry earth, chestnuts, red cabbage and leeks. Fading honey and lemon. Sand from the beach. 
 
In Short, 
I think this one is a real success. It's very well balanced, lets the distillate express itself, the vanilla and lemon are not too strong. It's not aggressive, and at the same time there's a nice complexity. This time, the price doesn't seem excessive to me, but it must be very hard to find.
Note : 88
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
     
                                           To Be Listened While Sipping :
 
                                           Big Daddy Wilson - Walk a Mile in my Shoes

Wednesday 20 September 2023

Mannochmore 2009 House of McCallum Vintage 13 yo

 
 
 
51,5°
Distillery : Mannochmore - Speyside
Graves Wine Finish
Independent Bottling 
By House of McCallum 
Limited Edition 
Single Malt 
Bottled in 2022
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured
Totally Unpeated
 
 
 
Another bottling with an original finish from House of McCallum, a trading company whose director, Anthony McCallum, likes to experiment. However, there are still no details about the first maturation, although we're expecting an unsurprising Bourbon barrel. 781 bottles were produced, it seems that this is not a Cask Strength.
 
 
 

Let's Taste It : 
The nose is more reserved, but deeper, fleshy, tree bark, earth and honeysuckle, lingonberries, muscat grapes, honey nuts, lemon zest. Cereals in the background. On the palate, it's foresty, heather, ferns, but also red fruits, blackberries and blueberries, but without excess. Discreet spices, paprika and nutmeg add depth. The finish is long and peachy, with mellow chestnuts, toasted wheat, damp black earth, bushes, cola and marzipan. 
 
In Short, 
Quite austere, despite lovely red fruits. At the same time, it has a certain depth. Interesting, original on the whole, with a fine finish, but the price goes too far.
Score : 87
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                           To Be Listened While Sipping :
                                           José Feliciano- The Thrill is Gone

Tuesday 19 September 2023

Dailuaine 2009 House of McCallum Vintage 13 yo

 
 
 
46,5°
Distillery : Dailuaine - Speyside
Pomerol Wine Finish
Independent Bottling 
By House of McCallum
Limited Edition 
SingleMalt
Bottled in 2022
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured
Totally Unpeated
 
 
 
Since 2018, Anthony McCallum has been creating ever more daring bottlings within the brand he created. Here, in The Vintage Collection range, under The Auld Alliance label, this 13-year-old Dailuaine finished in organic Pomerol casks. As for the first maturation, that remains a mystery, but a classic Bourbon barrels are very likely. 1010 bottles are on sale, it is a blending from three caskd, it seeems.
 
 
 

Let's Taste It : 
A sweet and soft wine, with a fine balance, cherries, muscat grapes that crunch under the tongue, blueberries and lingonberries but without excess. It is oily, woody, with a touch of honey and mother-of-pearl. Full and effective on the palate, between lychee and raspberry jelly, the spices are measured, not too strong. A few cashew nuts. Sufficiently long finish, earth and chocolate, orange peel, vegetal notes, moss and lichen, before ending on angelica.
 
In Short, 
It's fine, pleasant and well-balanced, not excessive like some wine barrel finishes. However, the price is outrageous. It's a nice product, but it's reduced, after all.
Score : 87
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                           To Be Listened While Sipping :
 
                                           The Band - The Weight

Monday 18 September 2023

Glengoyne 15 yo

 
 
 
43°
Distillery : Glengoyne - Highlands
1st Fill and 2nd Fill Sherry, 1st Fill Bourbon Casks
Original Bottling
Core Range 
Single Malt 
Launched in 2022
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured
Totally Unpeated
 
 
 
There was a 15 year old at Glengoyne between 2012 and 2018 or so, but it seems the recipe was different. This one has a similar formula to the 18 year old, just three years less maturation.
 
 
 
 
Let's Taste It : 
Creamy, crème caramel and chestnut cream, accompanied by a lovely woodiness and a variety of red fruits. Very appealing. Wood varnish, a hint of charcoal, blackberries, blackcurrants. On the palate, it's almost earthy, foresty, humus, bark, oak leaves, red plums and mellowed spices, paprika, cinnamon. Peach core. Herbaceous finish, fairly long, but lacks explosiveness. A touch of chocolate milk, blueberries and nutmeg, acorn, cola. 

In Short, 
More woody and foresty than the rest of the range, it brings its own personality and that's interesting. I don't think it's good value for money, so why not take the 18 year instead?
Note : 86









                                           To Be Listened While Sipping :
 
                                           Gary B.B. Coleman - The Sky is Crying

Saturday 16 September 2023

Caol Ila 1981 Cadenhead's Whisky Shop 40 yo



 
52,2°
Distillery : Caol Ila - Islay
Independent Bottling 
By William Cadenhead Limited 
Limited Edition 
Single Cask 
Bottled in 2022
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured, Cask Strength
Peated around 35 ppm
 
 
 
40-year-old Caol Ila's are hard to find. This one was produced in a very limited edition of 114 bottles, and sold exclusively at the Cadenhead shop in London, which also adorns the label on the bottle. It's impossible to know which cask was used, but I can guess that it was a Sherry cask. The Cadenhead shops in Vienna, Berlin, Odense and Milan, as well as all the others that aren't in the UK (in case I've forgotten any), are closing or have already closed because of the huge taxes imposed as a result of Brexit. That's why all recent releases from Cadenhead's Whisky Shop range replicate UK shops only.
 
 
 

Let's Taste It : 
Spicy lacquered wood. Beeswax. Smoke, very vague, yet very present. Armenian paper, shoe polish. A drop of soot. Bewitching balance. Exotic fruits, guava, kumquat, maracuja. On the palate, it's on the same level. Silky, complex. But the spices are volcanic. Cumin, black pepper. Cloves. The finish is calm by comparison, but very long. It develops gradually. Coal, cola, dried fruits. Stuffed dates, banana, paprika. Nutmeg, truffles. Rich and damp earth. 
 
In Short, 
Superbly balanced, but not an explosion of flavours. It's very refined, very well done, the Caol Ila profile is clearly recognisable, with smoke, which is surprising at this age. It's wonderful, and yet I didn't really love it, although I was very impressed. As for the price, I imagine it's the market rate, when absurdity rules.
Score : 91 









                                           To Be Listened While Sipping : 
 
                                           NoSo - Panama