Sunday, 27 September 2026

Lochlea Dark Briar

 
 
 
46°
Distillery : Lochlea - Lowlands
Pedro Ximénez, Oloroso and Port Casks
Original Bottling  
Core Range 
Single Malt 
Launched in 2025
Unchillfiltered, Uncolloured
Totally Unpeated 
 
 
 
Of the three new expressions from the distillery launched in 2025, this one emphasises sherry and port, and therefore fruitiness. It forms part of the Core Range, so it will be readily available. Once again, despite the ‘Single Estate’ label, it is not strictly speaking a Single Farm Estate, as the malting is not carried out on site. Nevertheless, the effort to produce a whisky made almost entirely on-site, with a very long fermentation period (66 to 116 hours depending on the batch), is to be commended. 
 
 
 

Let's Taste It : 
The sherry is full-bodied but slightly dry, red berries, raisins, blueberries and redcurrants, toasted oak, treacle. Melting caramel, toffee, gingerbread with a good dose of cinnamon. A touch of varnish, fir honey. On the palate, the fruit return, blueberry tart, raspberry jam, strawberry syrup, candied cherries. It’s quite creamy, with vinous notes and, of course, spices such as cloves, nutmeg, pepper. The finish is quite long, liquorice, concentrated fruit, plenty of spice, yet it remains pleasant. Tobacco and benzoin. 
 
In Short, 
It’s often the same with sherry. The advantage is that it enhances the quality, but you lose a little of the whisky’s personality. That’s the case here too, it’s a lovely sherry, albeit a little young, which brings a pleasant fruitiness, but the distillery’s light and evanescent character fades into the background. This does not detract from the fundamental quality of the product, but one is entitled to prefer the distinctiveness of a more characteristic profile. That said, the price here is very reasonable, so it would be a sound purchase. 
Score : 85  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                             To Be Listened While Sipping : 
                                             Tove Lo - No One Dies From Love

Williamson 2014 British Dragonflies 11 yo

 
 
 
61,4°
Distillery : Laphroaig - Islay
Bourbon Barrel
Independent Bottling 
By Archives
Limited Edition 
Single Cask 
Bottled in 2025
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured, Cask Strength
Peated around 43 ppm 
 
 
 
Normally, when the name ‘Williamson’ is used, in honour of Bessie Williamson, the only woman to have run a distillery in the 20th century, it is to conceal the fact that it is actually a Laphroaig. At Archives, they haven’t quite grasped the concept, as the bottle states: ‘Williamson distilled at Laphroaig Distillery’. What’s the point of calling it ‘Williamson’ if you’re allowed to say it’s a Laphroaig? ‘Williamson’ is also used to describe young, fiery Laphroaigs, and this one is certainly fiery, given the stated alcohol content. At Archives, a Dutch company founded in 2011, bottlings are always cask strength, which is why the alcohol content can sometimes be very high. But there’s nothing to stop you adding a little water to your glass. This one was bottled to celebrate the 10th anniversary of Heads and Tails, an independent bottler based in Canada. 
 
 
 

Let's Taste It : 
The smoke hits you right in the face. Thick, laden with ash, deeply maritime. Iodine and seaweed, a violent sea breeze, sea foam and fish scales. Shards of rock, chalky mineral nuances, quartz, flint. Behind all this, sweet butter, a dash of vanilla and a few plums and bananas. Orange peel. On the palate, it’s quite oily, almond oil, juicy pears, lychees, perhaps a bit of coconut. Then the spices come through, fierce, white pepper, cumin, horseradish. The finish is rather intense, though not as much as I’d expected, nor is it particularly long, dark tobacco, charcoal and liquorice. It’s very medicinal and salty, used bandages soaked in disinfectant, cold ash, cough syrup with a faintly sweet note. 
 
In Short, 
It’s actually more of a Williamson than a Laphroaig, because right from the first sniff it’s a storm of smoke and iodine. It’s as if you’re standing on the railings of an old fishmonger’s boat, with fuel oil leaking and piles of fish wriggling about on the deck. But on the palate, it’s still quite fruity, and the finish is superb, very medicinal, and the alcohol seemed well integrated to me. A very good Laphroaig, then, or rather, a Williamson, which lacks just a touch of genius to be perfect. 
Score : 89
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                                      To Be Listened While Sipping : 
 
                                             New Day Dawn - Whatever It Takes

Friday, 25 September 2026

Armorik Sherry Cask

 
 
 
46°
Distillery : Warenghem - France
Oloroso Sherry Butts 
Original Bottling 
Core Range 
Single Malt 
Lauched in 2020
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured
Totally Unpeated
 
 
 
This whisky was launched in 2020. At the time, the bottle label was entirely red. However, they changed the packaging in 2021, then again in 2024, and most recently in 2026. The recipe, however, has remained the same. Today, the fact that it has been matured entirely in Oloroso sherry butts is highlighted, as is the absence of chill filtration and colouring. This is a mark of quality and respect for the consumer. As the packaging is brand new, I only have a photo of my own to show you. 
 
 
 

Let's Taste It : 
Lovely roundness, the sherry influence is not too pronounced. Red berries, raisins, figs, dates, raspberry jam, earthy and spicy nuances, cinnamon, nutmeg and cumin. Blood oranges, crushed apricots, dried bananas. A few herbaceous notes. On the palate, baked apples, honey, very ripe mirabelle plums and a few cereals. The spices are still there and blend with a hint of Viandox. Beef stew. A fairly long, very respectable finish, liquorice, redcurrant jelly bringing a touch of acidity, velvety caramel, cloves. Perhaps a blueberry or two. 
 
In Short, 
It’s well made, there’s no reason to complain about it. What bothers me is that it lacks a bit of originality. It’s a good sherry-cask whisky, but it’s nothing new, there’s nothing special about it. The price is reasonable, so why not buy a bottle? But you could just as easily ask the opposite: why buy one?
Score : 85
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                                 To Be Listened While Sipping : 
 
                                                       Nation of Language - I'm Not Ready For The Change

Thursday, 24 September 2026

Armorik Small Batch Chouchenn

 
 
 
46°
Distillery : Warenghem - France 
Chouchenn and French Breton oak Casks
Original Bottling 
Core Range 
Single Malt 
Launched in 2026
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured
Totally Unpeated
 
 
 
Launched as a limited edition in 2025, this whisky was quickly added to the core range the following year due to its success. It is a bold move to produce a whisky aged in Chouchenn casks – Chouchenn being a mead native to Brittany, that is to say, a honey-based spirit. And they did just that. But what’s more, not content with simply producing the only whisky of its kind, they have gone to great lengths to create a whisky that is exclusively Breton. The only casks used are Breton oak casks, either new or previously used for Chouchenn, the barley comes mainly from Brittany and is, moreover, certified organic, and bottling takes place on the distillery’s premises. The only aspect about which we know nothing, or very little, is the malting process, other than that it complies with organic regulations. In any case, this is a product whose originality is bound to appeal to any self-respecting whisky lover. 
 
 
 

Let's Taste It : 
First of all, a rather rich and thick waxiness, then the honey fills the nose. Makroudes, cinnamon biscuits, cloves, royal jelly, candied mirabelle plums. Behind this, the wood offers a lovely velvety texture, varnish, Vendée brioche, crunchy caramel, and lovely notes of vanilla. Flambéed bananas, melted butter. Honey-coated fruit on the palate, pears and peaches, a few dates and raisins. The spices are subtle, faint maritime hints in the background. A fairly long finish, slightly astringent, chocolate sweets, dark honey, a pinch of earth, liquorice and dried figs. 
 
In Short, 
Here, originality goes hand in hand with a certain quality, the virgin oak casks are used to great effect and blend with the honey without imparting the slightest hint of bitterness. There are a few flaws, notably a finish that is a little aggressive, though long and rich, and a palate that is just a touch light. Overall, however, I think it’s a success, and I’d even say this is the direction to take. Doing what others don’t do, and doing it well, that goes without saying. The price is, of course, a little high, the Research & Development department’s efforts need to be recouped, but it’s still reasonable. Buying a bottle might just satisfy your curiosity. 
Score : 85
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                             To Be Listened While Sipping : 
                                             Denez Prigent featuring Lisa Gerrard - An Hini a Garan

Wednesday, 23 September 2026

Armorik Men Ruz

 
 
 
43°
Distillery : Warengehm - France 
Bourbon, STR, Oloroso Sherry and Virgin Breton Casks
Original Bottling 
Core Range
Single Malt 
Launched in 2026
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured
Totally Unpeated
 
 
 
This is the latest release to hit the small world of French whisky this autumn. This newcomer has undergone a complex maturation process, involving four different types of cask, predominantly Bourbon and new oak casks. It is reportedly ‘approximately’ five years old, at least that’s what the Brand Ambassador said. The alcohol content is a little low, but it remains unchillfiltered, which I welcome. Men Ruz means ‘Red Stone’ in Breton, a tribute to the Côte de Granit Rose, found in this part of Brittany, near Lannion, where the distillery is located. 
 
 
 

Let's Taste It : 
A nose full of honey, the influence of the new oak barrels is very well controlled, there are notes of caramel, sponge cake and brioche, but no bitterness whatsoever. Churned butter, juicy yellow fruits, mashed bananas, rum baba, a few coastal nuances, iodine, limestone, quartz. A fresh, maritime character. The palate is, unfortunately, light, but smooth and well-balanced, vanilla, royal jelly, egg custard, solid untreated wood, cherry or pine, crème brûlée, spices that aren’t too disturbing. The finish isn’t very long and is rather astringent,  charcoal, liquorice, splinters, soft bark, lichen, cloves. Mushroom cream. 
 
In Short, 
The nose is really pleasant, you can really savour it, but then it gets a bit more complicated, on the palate it’s fine but a bit too light, and the finish is a little harsh. That said, it’s an entry-level whisky that’ll be sold at a low price, so it would be silly to expect miracles from it. Given the price it’s on sale for, I think it’s not bad at all, in fact, quite nice. 
Score : 84 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                                  To Be Listened While Sipping : 
 
                                                   Stéphane Giacalone - Le Sentier des orages

Tuesday, 22 September 2026

Yeun Elez 2021 Single Cask Anthologiezh 5 yo

 
 
 
57,8°
Distillery : Warenghem - France
STR Wine Cask
Original Bottling 
Limited Edition 
Single Cask 
Bottled in 2026
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured, Cask Strength
Peated around 50 ppm
 
 
 
The Yeun Elez range comprises peated whiskies produced in Warenghem. They are very often released as Single Cask and Cask Strength expressions, and are made with peated barley at 50 ppm. This one is the most recent addition to the range, it is five years old and has been matured in an STR Wine Cask. STR stands for ‘scraped, toasted and re-charred’, meaning the cask has been reworked to rejuvenate it and charred to the maximum. 280 bottles were produced from it. 
 
 
 

Let's Taste It : 
A thick, suffocating and rather dry smoke, where a few winy reflections, dried fruit and wild berries, emerge. The smoke is steeped in soot, charcoal and dust, with mineral notes of granite, quartz, basalt. The fruit gradually comes to the fore: peaches, apricots, white grapes. Dried herbs. On the palate, it is quite full-bodied, blackberry jam, lemon zests, pears, not too strong spices, cloves, dark chocolate. A long, almost explosive finish, charcoal, spongy peat, caramel and liquorice. Mandarin peel. It is slightly medicinal, even earthy.
 
In Short, 
I’m not exactly thrilled. The smoke overpowers most of the distillate and that’s practically all you can feel. It’s particularly dry on the nose, reminiscent of terracotta, I only detected medicinal or coastal notes on the finish, and even then, there were very few. It’s still powerful and full of character, but it’s a far cry from Islay’s masterpieces. Only the finish struck me as pleasant, it saves the whole thing a little. At that price, frankly, I’d suggest looking elsewhere instead. 
Score : 86
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                                     To Be Listened While Sipping : 
                                                      Sleep - The Morrisist

Ben Nevis 2012 The Single Malts of Scotland Reserve Casks 10 yo

 
 
 
48°
Distillery : Ben Nevis - Highlands
5 Oloroso Sherry Hogsheads 
Independent Bottling 
By Elixir Distillers 
Limited Edition 
Single Malt 
Bottled in 2022
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured
Heavily Peated
 
 
 
I still have quite a few bottles from Elixir Distillers’ now-defunct Reserve Casks range, including some Ben Nevis whiskies. This one is 10 years old, it’s a blend of five Oloroso sherry hogsheads, and the distillate is peated. I’ve labelled it ‘Heavily Peated’, as that’s the traditional description for Ben Nevis, but the peat level doesn’t exceed 30 ppm. 
 
 
 

Let's Taste It :  
Slightly woody smoke, ground nutmeg, dark chocolate, flambéed caramel, cooked mushrooms and chestnuts, moss and lichen, fig jam. Lovely creaminess of prunes, dried bananas, and a dash of vanilla. Freshly ploughed earth, petrichor. Fir honey. Hints of minerality. Velvety on the palate, dates, raisins, smoky bark, black tea, fresh apples, very subtle spices, candied lemon. A somewhat harsh but long finish, dark tobacco, pralines, barely bitter wood, dried herbs, cola nuts, coffee grounds. 
 
In Short, 
This is the classic profile of sherry-matured Ben Nevis whiskies, forestry, earthy, yet with a variety of fruit notes. However, in this case, I found a few minor flaws, the wood is a little too prominent, particularly on the finish, and it feels a bit light on the palate. It’s still a good whisky, the nose is complex, and the rest is pleasant. It has personality and character, and the price is reasonable. 
Score : 87
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                             To Be Listened While Sipping : 
 
                                             Lebanon Hanover - The Last Thing 

Monday, 21 September 2026

Armorik 10 yo Signature 2026

 
 
 
46°
Distillery : Warenghem - France
Bourbon, Oloroso Sherry and Virgin Breton oak Casks
Original Bottling 
Limited Edition
Single Malt 
Bottled in 2026
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured
Totally Unpeated
 
 
 
As early as 2015, 10-year-old whiskies were included amongst the Warenghem distillery’s releases, but these were very limited-edition single cask bottlings. The 10-year-old, as we know it today, first appeared in 2018 to celebrate 20 years of whisky production at the distillery (which had previously made other spirits). But this month, a new 10-year-old is on the horizon, the packaging has changed, as have the recipe, the price and even the name. The aim is to compete with Scottish 10-year-olds, both in terms of price and quality, which is a bold move. The price has therefore dropped by 15 per cent, I applaud this commendable effort. However, if I’ve understood correctly, this is still a limited edition, with batches of 5,000 bottles. To be confirmed later. 
 
 
 

Let's Taste It : 
A rich and balanced nose, with lovely fruitiness from the sherry, plums, even prunes, chocolate cake, juicy pears, candied cherries, white grapes and conifer honey, whilst the bourbon lends a certain stability, creamy vanilla, cereal biscuits, the new oak casks contribute an elegant, rustic woodiness rich in caramel. On the palate, it is somewhat light but pleasant, the fruit is integrated into an oily texture, particularly green apple, good length on the palate, well-controlled spices. Roasted hazelnuts. Fairly long finish, though slightly astringent, dark tobacco, earth and ferns, the wood becomes more pronounced, even rough, modelling clay, cashew nuts and a pinch of salt. 

In Short, 
To be honest, it’s not far off the quality of some 10-year-old Scotch whiskies, but it’s not quite there yet. The nose is actually quite good, but it lacks a bit of character, the palate is pleasant, but still a little light, the finish is quite long, but still a bit harsh. I know just how difficult it has been to produce a 10-year-old in France, and I congratulate this distillery on that. But to compete with Scottish 10-year-olds is perhaps a bit ambitious at the moment. Certainly, the price is attractive and the quality is undeniable, but they’ll need to make a bit more of an effort. 
Score : 85  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                             To Be Listened While Sipping : 
 
                                                      Catherine Ringer - Intermitent Lover