Bunnahabhain 2004 Old Islay 21 yo

 

 

 

55°

Distillery : Bunnahabhain - Islay

1st Fill Oloroso and Pedro Ximénez Butts, 1st Fill Pedro Ximénez Hogshead Finish

Independent Bottling 

By Decadent Drinks 

Limited Edition 

Single Malt 

Bottled in 2026

Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured

Almost Unpeated

 

 

 

So, this is the third release in the ‘Island Hopping Series’, and it was launched last March. It is a 21-year-old Bunnahabhain, and, naturally, it has been matured in sherry casks. According to the Scotch Whisky Association, it cannot be described as a Single Cask, as the initial maturation took place in several sherry butts. However, several websites do present it as such, as the second maturation took place in a single Sherry Hogshead, and it is stated that this lasted several years. But it seems more logical to me to follow the Scotch Whisky Association’s guidance. 296 bottles are available for sale. 

 

 

 

Let's Taste It : 

A typical sherry from Bunnahabhain, lovely velvety balance, juicy red fruits, varnished wood, pastry cream. Thick bark rubbed with Muscat grapes, blueberry tart, citrus pulp. Chocolate, shea butter, Vanilla in its pod, caffè latte. On the palate, it leans more towards white and even exotic fruits, Comice pears, a drop of papaya juice, Golden Delicious apples, elegant oak, fairly light but noticeable spices. Clove and nutmeg. The finish is not overly violent, but very long, caramel-filled pralines, green tea, subtle hints of charcoal, black earth and fresh blackberries. Peach stones, notes of tinder, and a very slight bitterness.

 

In Short, 

To be perfectly honest, I have to say I’m a bit disappointed. A friend had told me it was exceptional, and certainly it’s very good, very representative of the distillery and has a lovely balance. However, it isn’t all that expressive and holds few surprises. Decadent Drinks has a huge reputation, and you always expect something outstanding from them, as that’s often the case. But not always, as we can see here. It’s still a lovely bottle of Bunnahabhain, very old-school and appealing, fans of this style might well overlook the high price to treat themselves to one. 

Score : 89

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

                                                    To Be Listened While Sipping : 

 

                                               Estela Alexandre Orquestra - Memòria

Springbank 12 yo Cask Strength Batch 29

 

 

 

56,6°

Distillery : Springbank - Campbeltown

100% Bourbon Casks

Original Bottling 

Limited Edition 

Single Malt 

Bottled in 2026

Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured, Cask Strength

Peated around 12 ppm

 

 

 

This one arrived rather unexpectedly, right in the middle of July, and just seven months after the previous batch. And, like the previous batch, it’s 100 per cent Bourbon-matured, which is quite rare in this series, which was launched in 2010. I love my Springbank aged in Bourbon casks, but I hope they don’t make it the norm, as I like a bit of variety too.

 

 

 

Let's Taste It : 

The nose is creamy, english custard, generous vanilla, thick honey, blond tobacco, a rubbery quality, plums and crushed bananas. Hints of iodine, full-bodied peat, exposed beams, small pebbles, farmyard notes, hay, stable. Gentle indulgence, cereal bars. On the palate, olive oil, macerated almonds, prickly pears, sanded wood, powerful spices. Wheat germ. A very long finish, a touch of liquorice, charcoal and chocolate, chewing tobacco, beach sand, citrus pulp, grapefruit and lemon. An ounce of bitterness, asparagus.

 

In Short, 

I found the nose very fruity, and I tasted it alongside the other two 12-year-old Cask Strength 100% Bourbon whiskies I own, Batches 23 and 28, and I think this one is better. Lots of fruit on the nose, a rich, indulgent character, very oily on the palate, and a very long finish. Whereas the other two are more mineral, lighter and more ethereal. The only slight drawback on this one is that the wood has left a bit of a mark on the finish and there’s a very slight bitterness. Mind you, that’s not necessarily a flaw, but it does mean the balance is slightly off at that point. As for the price, it’s now too high for my liking, it’s a real shame, but we’ll just have to get used to it. 

Score : 89 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

                                                 To Be Listened While Sipping : 

 

                                                  Alex Vile - Color Me Cold

Port Ellen 1983 The Cooper's Choice 14 yo

 

 

 

56,8°

Distillery : Port Ellen - Islay

Sherry Cask 

Independent Bottling 

By The Vintage Malt Whisky Co. Ltd

Limited Edition 

Single Cask 

Bottled in 1998

Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured, Cask Strength

Peated around 35 ppm

 

 

 

There are five different bottlings of Port Ellen distilled in 1983, the year the distillery closed, and matured for 14 years before being released as part of The Cooper’s Choice collection. It is not possible to distinguish between them as the cask number is not specified. You therefore have to identify them by their alcohol content, and this one stands at 56.8 ABV, it was reserved for the Swiss market. It’s amusing because on some bottles there’s a typo, and the year of distillation given is 1993, not 1983. But that’s a mistake. We have no further details about this gem, as at the time, Port Ellen bottlings were by no means considered anything out of the ordinary. 

 

 

 

Let's Taste It : 

A burst of peat verging on astringency, but which balances out shortly afterwards, it is thick, mineral, sticky with soot, and at the same time very pure, with a maritime character, punctuated by seaweed and fish scales. Behind this, herbaceous notes, reeds, dried dandelion, caramel and dried dates, molasses, toasted wood, all sprinkled with lemon and vanilla. On the palate, prunes and lychees, the peat becomes more subtle, more chalky, smoother, with an ounce of charcoal nonetheless, and powerful spices. Baked bananas, soggy biscuit. A long, powerful finish that builds slowly, becoming more cereal-like, shortbread, apple fritters, fragments of leather, warm wax, very ripe mirabelle plums.

 

In Short, 

I was particularly impressed by the nose, which was incredibly powerful, yet perfectly refined. But it took a long time to really open up. And finally, the finish was incredible, very long and complex. Yet another little piece of history that I’m glad to have experienced. That said, it is a bit misleading, the name is so steeped in myth. I’d be curious to see what would happen if we presented this wine in a blind tasting to a group of connoisseurs. We might be in for a few surprises. But the quality is there; that’s undeniable. I won’t mention the price, to avoid making everyone feel a bit down. 

Score : 91 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

                                                   To Be Listened While Sipping : 

                                                    Swallow the Sun - Woven into Sorrow

Laphroaig 2014 The Single Malts of Scotland Specially Selected By The Nectar 7 yo

 

 

 

56,2°

Distillery : Laphroaig - Islay

Hogshead 

Independent Bottling 

By Elixir Distillers 

Limited Edition 

Single Cask 

Bottled in 2022

Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured, Cask Strength

Peated around 43 ppm 

 

 

 

You should never overlook a young Laphroaig, which is why I decided to try this one last night. It’s very straightforward, matured in a hogshead and aged for just 7 years. But give or take 8 days, it was 8 years old. 265 bottles were drawn from the cask. It’s a special bottling, though, as it was specially selected by The Nectar, a colleague from Elixir Distillers, which is based in Belgium. 

 

 

 

Let's Taste It : 

Diesel oil, soot, bandages and disinfectant. Tons of iodine, sharp limestone, various types of rock. An overturned salt shaker. Dusty smoke. A half-full ashtray. In the background, vanilla, white butter, banana. Gradually, the fruit notes become more prominent. On the palate, it is mellow and oily, lychees, white grapes, then spicy, cumin, cloves, grey pepper. Crushed almonds. A very powerful finish, crème fraîche, hazelnuts, untreated wood, greasy coal, fuel oil, petrol. Sugared almonds. A zest of lemon.

 

In Short, 

It’s so quintessentially Laphroaig that we ought to invent a name for it, Megalaphroaig, Absolutphraig, or something like that. It has all the distillery’s signature characteristics, each perfectly in place, but amplified a thousandfold, enhanced by the whisky’s youth and the barely perceptible influence of the cask. For a fan of this style like me, it’s a marvel, but for someone who doesn’t like it, it’ll be a nightmare. You can still find it on certain websites, sometimes at a reasonable price, sometimes not at all. Choose wisely.

Score : 88

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

                                           To Be Listened While Sipping :  

                                           Sexual Purity - The Room

Octomore Edition 05.1 5 yo

 

 

 

59,5°

Distillery : Bruichladdich - Islay

American Oak Casks

Original Bottling 

Limited Edition 

Single Malt 

Bottled in 2012

Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured

Peated around 169 ppm

 

 

 

Whenever I get the chance to try an Octomore, I simply can’t resist, it’s beyond my control. That’s why I snapped this one up as soon as I saw it was available at a bar I’m particularly fond of. Launched 14 years ago now, it’s become a collector’s item. But it’s the same Octomore as the others in the .1 series: five years old, matured in Bourbon casks, Scottish barley, a gargantuan dose of peat. Everything you need to make you happy. 18,000 bottles were being released. 

 

 

 

Let's Taste It : 

Sharp nose, immense peat, cut through by waves of iodine and limestone, gypsum and granite. A deserted beach, the sea breeze, pebbles soaked in salt, shavings of Parmesan, then a hint of fruit and vanilla, but you have to say it quickly. A few drops of honey, plum pulp, a zest of lemon. Medicinal notes. On the palate, the peat fades, it’s almost delicate, yet remains very much present in the background, thick and deep. It’s oily, almonds and lychees, quite smooth, and well-measured spices. A very powerful finish, full of charcoal and gravel, lingering smoke and a metallic edge, yet still elegant. Cashew nuts, vanilla flan, young wood.

 

In Short, 

This is the eighth in this series that I’ve tasted, and it’s one of the best. I’ve also tasted the 03.1, and it’s quite similar, but I think I prefer the 03.1 – by a narrow margin. On the other hand, I’ve also tasted the 06.1, and I didn’t enjoy it nearly as much, though perhaps I should give it another go. It just goes to show that it’s not always the case that the oldest batches are the best. I certainly enjoyed this one, it’s particularly mineral and briny, it’s really intense. You can still find it, at a wildly inflated price, but when you’re passionate about something, that doesn’t matter. 

Score : 90

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

                                            To Be Listened While Sipping : 

 

                                             Kaelan Mikla - Hvitir Sandar

Ben Nevis 1984 Single Cask Exclusively for La Maison du Whisky 28 yo

 

 

 

55°

Distillery : Ben Nevis - Highlands

1st Fill American Oak Bourbon Barrel and Refill Sherry Hogshead Finish 

Original Bottling 

Limited Edition 

Single Cask 

Bottled in 2013

Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured, Cask Strength

Almost Unpeated

 

 

 

When the distillery was acquired by the Nikka Group in 1989, they explored the warehouses and came across a whole batch of casks distilled in 1984, the contents of which they decided to transfer into Sherry Puncheons, which they considered to be of a higher quality. However, there was a limited supply of sherry puncheons, and eventually they transferred the last cask, this one, to a refill sherry hogshead in October 1998. As a result, this whisky spent 13 years and ten months in a bourbon barrel, and just 15 years in a refill sherry hogshead. The finishing period was longer than the initial maturation. The Sherry cask number is 98/35/14, which initially led me to believe it was three casks rather than just one. But it is indeed a Single Cask, it’s just that the cask number is a bit odd. This cask was subsequently selected by La Maison du Whisky to be divided into 247 bottles and reserved primarily for the French market. 

 

 

 

Let's Taste It : 

A walk in the forest: thick bark, acorns, ferns, dark, damp earth. Chocolate fondant, sticky caramel, dates and dried bananas. Enchanting woody notes, with hints of lacquer and varnish, acacia honey, peach stones and walnuts. On the palate, it’s more restrained, the oak has been glazed, the fruit is stewed and cooked, vanilla pudding. The spices are subtle yet intense. A fairly long finish, where the oak comes to the fore, resin cream, pine cones, chickpeas, light herbaceous notes. Raisins, a few sweet and syrupy notes. Bread fresh from the oven.

 

In Short, 

The nose is quite wonderful, with a distinct character, it’s a recognisable Ben Nevis, but it has something extra, I can’t quite put my finger on it, a waxy quality, notes of red fruit jam. The palate and finish are less distinctive, but very pleasant. So this is a top-quality Ben Nevis, yet another one, which you can still find on the La Maison du Whisky website, though at a completely ridiculous price. 

Score : 90 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

                                                   To Be Listened While Sipping : 

 

                                            Elanor Moss - Fixer

Talisker 1999 Friends of The Classic Malts 10 yo

 

 

 

59,3°

Distillery : Talisker - Islands

American Oak Casks

Original Bottling 

Limited Edition 

Single Malt 

Bottled in 1999

Unchillfiltered, Cask Strength

Peated around 22 ppm

 

 

 

Founded in 1997, Friends of The Classic Malts was a group of enthusiasts in partnership with Diageo who were offered a number of exclusive bottlings from the various distilleries featured in The Classic Malts of Scotland. This one is a fine example of that, just 10 years’ maturation in American oak casks, allowing the spirit’s character to shine through. 7,000 bottles were released at the time. 

 

 

 

Let's Taste It : 

The coastal character comes to the fore, the tide, seaweed, the sea air. But above all, it is mineral, limestone, granite, slate. Cathedrals of salt. Then a hint of fruit creeps in, juicy pears, peaches that aren’t quite ripe. A medicinal note, a light zest of citrus. On the palate, it’s somewhat greasy, seafood, shellfish, oysters, but also lychees, dragon fruit. Woodiness emerges, young, untreated wood, spices very much present. A very long, beautifully crafted finish, though not overly powerful, sea foam, breadsticks, a pinch of pepper, sea urchins, silica.

 

In Short, 

An old-school whisky that showcases the full character of this magnificent distillery, it’s incredible just how coastal it is. Don’t expect anything particularly subtle or original here, it’s simply pure, concentrated Talisker. And that’s perfect. It’s very well made too, everything is just right, there really is nothing to complain about. Apparently, it’s fairly easy to find at auction, I’ll have to have a look.  

Score : 89

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

                                                   To Be Listened While Sipping : 

 

                                                    Benjamin Clementine - Can't Always Be The Winner, Argentina

Clynelish 1971 Mission Cask Strength Series 36 yo

 

 

 

51,5°

Distillery : Clynelish - Highlands

Bourbon Cask

Independent Bottling 

By Murray McDavid

Limited Edition 

Single Cask 

Bottled in 2007

Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured, Cask Strength

Almost Unpeated

 

 

 

I got my hands on a drop of this nectar the other day, and although it’s tricky with such a small amount, I’ve written a tasting note that aims to do it justice. It’s a Clynelish from the very early days – let’s not forget that this distillery began production in 1968. I’m not, of course, referring to the old Clynelish, the one that was renamed Brora after its name was stolen from it, and which closed in 1983, only to be miraculously revived 38 years later, but that’s another story. I’m talking about this distillery which is only 58 years old, that replaced another and took its name, because the latter was deemed too small and it would have been too expensive to renovate. It is therefore one of the earliest Clynelish whiskies, and one of the oldest, because a 36-year-old whisky isn’t something you find on every street corner. The maturation process is very simple, which puts the distillate centre stage, and only 265 bottles exist. And that’s when collectors go wild. 

 

 

 

Let's Taste It : 

A powerful and luscious fruitiness, dates, grapes, soft bananas, Reine-Claude plums, and an exotic touch of mango and papaya, which clashes with a mineral hardness, flint, even granite. Baked apples, buttered and toasted bread, runny honey, warm wax, melted chocolate, liquorice, elegant oak, gunpowder. On the palate, the fruit blends with herbs, chives, black pepper, dried bananas, figs and candied lemon, juicy oranges and mandarins. Chocolate cake, sweet almonds. A very long, seemingly endless finish, oaky, peach stones, braised walnuts, earthy, tinder, black berries, and of course fruity, dried apricots, apple slices, candied plums. Tobacco crumbs on the retro-olfaction.

 

In Short, 

It’s quite fashionable to criticise Murray McDavid for his sometimes bizarre finishes, but they should be awarded a medal for services to humanity in recognition of bottlings such as this one. The nose is a fruity and honeyed explosion, with a distinctive touch of wax and flint. On the palate, it’s like velvety oil, and the finish is absolutely magnificent. This is a Clynelish very different from those we drink today, far less waxy and more fruity, with a more pronounced minerality. A piece of history, then, as well as a whisky of the very highest quality. If you decide to acquire this one, you’ll need a great deal of luck, and a banker with a sense of empathy, which is as rare as a flying hedgehog. 

Score : 92

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

                                                   To Be Listened While Sipping : 

 

                                                  Steve Rothery Band - White Pass