Springbank 2013 Palo Cortado Cask Matured 10 yo

 

 

 

55°

Distillery : Springbank - Campbeltown 

Refill Bourbon Barrels and Fresh Palo Cortado Sherry Hogshead Finish

Original Bottling 

Limited Edition 

Single Malt 

Bottled in 2023

Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured

Peated around 12 ppm

 

 

 

In 2022, the distillery is launching this Sherry Wood range, which will comprise a total of 5 whiskies released annually, all finished in different casks and reduced to 55°. After Sherry Pedro Ximénez, this is Sherry Palo Cotrtado. The liquid first spent 6 years in Bourbon Refill Barrels, before being transferred to Palo Cortado Sherry casks for a further four years. The result is a limited edition of 10,200 bottles, which sold out as quickly as it appeared.

 

 

 

Let's Taste It :  

Beautiful fruity intensity with a hint of smoke. Lingonberries, gooseberries, dried apricots, goji seeds, cherry juice, fresh tomatoes. Slightly foresty too, oak bark, acorns, undergrowth. Varnished wood, melted butter, red grapes. On the palate, raspberry purée, caramel-filled chocolate, greedy woodiness, coffee éclair, perennial spices, cloves, cumin, black pepper, nutmeg. More coffee in the finish, long and explosive, unctuous caramel, red fruits again, wild strawberries, blackcurrants, melting toffee, salted butter, liquorice, a few pomegranate seeds, rose loukoum.

 

In Short, 

The thundering success of this range makes you wary, and I have to admit that I wasn't sure I was getting an exceptional piece when I bought this sample. And yet, it's a total success. The Sherry is intense, powerful and deep. Admittedly, the magnificent profile of this distillery is a little forgotten in the process, but there's still a fine marriage between the robust character of Campbeltown and the fruity, caramelised sweetness of the Sherry. Unfortunately, prices have risen to ridiculous heights due to the ferocity of speculators, but if you can find it at an acceptable price, go for it without hesitation.

Score : 90 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

                                           To Be Listened While Sipping :

 

                                           Glen Alfred - Shame

Line Up #24 : Peat Bombs

29 March 2024. 

 

 

 

 

The Line Up Concept : 

The Peat Bombs are dirty. It's the uncompromising violence of peat slamming down on the palate. With Peat Bombs, there's no room for nuance or subtlety. This isn't a 25-year-old Macallan swallowed with a finger in the air and a suit and tie in a select club, no, this is the real whisky of the Scottish steppes, the whisky of the stirring wind, the rising tide, the choking smoke. The purity of the elements in a bottle. Before it became a speculative commodity that fetched high prices in auction houses, whisky was the comfort of the farmer, the sheep herder and the miner, and for these people, it didn't need to be delicate and fruity, it needed to be rough, powerful, straightforward and sincere, just like them. And of course you needed peat, because there wasn't a tree in sight, and even coal was too expensive. Aged for no more than a few years in a cask that has already been used several times, this is where you get all the purity of the distillate, and few distilleries dare to play the game. And most of those that do, do so on condition that their name does not appear on the bottle. These are secret distilleries that allow you to experience the full depth of their character, young and unpolished by the influence of the cask. A diamond in the rough, unadorned, without make-up, without the deceptive trappings of marketing and advertising. Of course, it's not for the faint-hearted, the half-glass aficionados, those who want to get home early because they have swimming pool tomorrow, those who like the perfect balance between delicate woodiness and cherry stem aromas. Peat Bombs are for the rough and tumble, for those who love whisky unconditionally, until the end of the night. It's not for everyone.

For me, the true Peat Bomb is ageless. Even Octomore isn't a real Peat Bomb, it's certainly a very peaty whisky, but it's also very refined, a subtle work of art. Just like the Uigeadail and the Corryvreckan, and even the Laphroaig 10 Year Old Cask Strength. These are fine products, too well made to be Peat Bombs. A real Peat Bomb is not triple matured, it's not the work of a goldsmith set to the millimetre, it's crafted with an axe, it's rough around the edges, but at the same time you have the full character of the whisky, its pure DNA, with nothing to get in the way. As a result, Peat Bombs are most often these NAS bottlings released by independent bottlers with a simple maturation, usually in Bourbon Refill casks. It can also be Sherry, but not great Sherry. Be that as it may, the real Peat Bomb is never about nuance. It is not necessarily Cask Strength, but at least 50°. 

 

 

 

For this tasting, I've selected the Peat Bombs I drink every day, these provocatively-named bottlings launched by independent bottlers who have acquired rather young, well-peated casks. The game is also to find the distillery behind the brand. The debates on this subject are endless, but I have my opinions on the matter. Firstly, Caol Ila being the most productive distillery, it is certain that most of these bottlings come from its stills. The others are almost always Islayers, but there are exceptions. I didn't select the Port Askaig, because I think I'll do a separate tasting for this brand, nor the Ileach, the Ileach Cask Strength isn't bad, but the nose isn't great, very good finish on the other hand, but for me that's not enough, nor the Peat Chimney Batch Strength, because I didn't find it very interesting, nor the Cask Islay, which I've never had the chance to taste. The Islay Storm wasn't selected either, as it doesn't exceed 40°, which is unacceptable for a Peat Bomb. I seem to have a copy of all the other ageless, 50+ proof peaty stuff out there.

 

 

 

 

The Tasting : 

Big Peat Christmas Edition 2021 : Douglas Laing is the bottler behind this Blended Malt, which brings together at least 4 Islay distilleries: Caol Ila, Bowmore, Ardbeg and Port Ellen. The Christmas Edition, in Cask Strength, has been around since 2011, and is released every year just before Christmas.
At first, it's fresh and fruity, but very quickly the peat rises, very maritime. Shellfish and white fruits. Ashy smoke, juicy plums. Particularly powerful on the palate, with cloves, aniseed and a dash of vanilla. Long, violent finish with oysters, kelp, razor clams and whelks. Score : 88 

 

 

 

 

Peat's Beast Batch Strength Pedro Ximénez Sherry Wood Finish 2020 :Fox Fitzgerald Whisky Trading Company launched this thing in 2019. The bottlings are Cask Strength, so they're back-to-back limited editions. Rumour has it that this is Benromach. Possibly BenRiach too.
Grainy, earthy smoke, with dried fruits, dates, apricots, but also raspberries and blackberries. Beautiful complexity. It's velvety. Oily on the palate, sultanas, cranberries, caramel, powerful but not overpowering finish, long and deep, earth, mushrooms, bark, cinnamon. Score : 88

Bårelegs Battle Axe : The Islay Boys is a small company founded by two Islay natives, and they launched this in 2020. It was whispered in my ear that it was Lagavulin, and today I'm sure it is, all the markers are there.
Elegant peat, limestone, oily mud. Vanilla and mirabelle plum. Oily on the palate, medicinal touch, Vaporub, cumin, very violent spices. Vanilla in the background. Long, full finish, with a hint of iodine, pear and lemon. Score : 88 

 

 

 

 

Compass Box The Peat Monster Origin Story : This Blended Malt, introduced in early 2023 to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the Peat Monster, is a blend of Laphroaig and Caol Ila, as well as three other non-Islay distilleries, in small quantities.
The nose is perfectly balanced, with fine medicinal peat, light iodine and evanescent white fruits. Meringue, Île flottante, lemony prairie fire, molasses-laden peat, cumin, cloves. Powerful, very long finish, full of iodine, genoise, burnt bacon. Score : 90

 

 

 

 

Scarabus Batch Strength : Hunter Laing has launched the Scarabus brand, then this Batch Strength in 2020, in order to finance their Islay-based distillery, Ardnahoe, whose first single malt should be arriving any day now. I'm ready to bet big money that it's Caol Ila.
The nose is full of limestone and iodine, you're right on the sea, whipped up by the sea spray. Beautiful amber peat, but also airy. Crushed pear. Mouth of seawater, foam, kelp and seaweed, then intense spices. It remains oily. Long, pleasant finish, burning coal, cumin and cloves, hot chestnuts. Score : 88

 

 

 

 

Classic of Islay 2018 : The Classic of Islay has been around for over twenty years, and is the work of Jack Wiebers Whisky World, a well-known German bottler. What's special about them is that they're single casks. There are rumours here and there that they are Lagavulin, and that fits the profile.
Slightly acidic nose, cooked apple, cinnamon, nutmeg. Quince marmalade, apricots and sultanas. The palate is pleasant but nothing more, with caramelised notes, lively spices and a long, velvety, liquoriced finish.. Score : 87

 

 

 

 

Finlaggan Cask Strength : This one has been around since 2009, and the Finlaggan brand is very old, it's the work of bottler Vintage Malt Whisky C°. Some say it's Lagavulin, but I'm sure it's Caol Ila, the two profiles are quite different.
Fairly sweet sherry, with ashy smoke and a few grapes. Notes of blood orange, whiffs of sea air. Quite oily on the palate, but not very expressive. Quince juice, iced tea, hint of iodine. Long but not very explosive finish, pleasant nonetheless, full of liquorice. Forest notes, bark, vegetable moss, mushrooms. Score : 87

Smokehead High Voltage : Ian MacLeod Distillers also wanted to launch its own ultra-peated brand, and that's Smokehead. This high proof edition dates from 2018. For this one, it's Ardbeg, but be warned, it seems that not all Smokeheads are Ardbeg.
Ardbegian nose, vegetal and full-bodied. Impressive peat. Intense and earthy, vegetal smoke. Light on the palate, but enlivened by spices, cumin and pepper, ginger and a nice oily touch. Rather violent, atomic finish, liquorice sweets. Woody hints, charcoal rain. Score : 87

Mac-Talla Mara Cask Strength : This one was launched in 2020, by Morrison Scotch Whisky Distillers, who are the former owners of Bowmore. So there's not much doubt about the origin of the product.
Fresh fish, sardines and herrings. A little less strong peat, with a hint of lemon. Light on the palate, still lemon, accompanied by expressive spices, cumin, cloves. Fairly silky. Quite strong finish, with iodine, sea spray and charcoal. Score : 86

'As We Get It' Islay Single Malt 2021 Second Batch : In addition to Smokehead, Ian MacLeod Distillers has been offering this other brand for some twenty years, and I can swear it's Caol Ila. These are Cask Strength bottlings, with one limited edition after another.
Strong sea peat and iodine. Some charcoal hints in the background, even some fruits. Oily, fishy palate, covered in peat, with intense spices, cloves, cumin and pepper. Very respectable, well-crafted finish, with tobacco, sea spray, ash and chocolate. Score : 87

Elements of Islay Peat Full Proof : Finally, a specimen of the Elements of Islay brand, launched by Elixir Distillers, which was originally called Speciality Drinks. This Peat Full Proof dates from 2016, is sadly no longer produced, and is rumoured to be a blend of Laphroaig and Caol Ila. I wouldn't be surprised if there's a bit of Bunnahabhain in there too.
Pure peat. Fruitless, with just a dash of vanilla. Granitic, mineral, a pinch of iodine, ashy. Just peat. On the palate, it's covered in peat and a little more maritime, even fishy. The finish is long, relatively violent, ashy. Score : 87 

What I gain from it : 

• The Islay distilleries are by far the most involved, including Caol Ila, which produces the most, as well as Lagavulin. There's also Ardbeg, Laphroaig and Bowmore, but on a more limited scale. Bruichladdich, Bunnahabhain and Kilchoman probably don't have the stocks to create such products, or it wouldn't be profitable.
  
• These are, of course, bottlings that all look a bit the same, slaps in the face full of peat, smoke and coal, and few nuances. That's the product line, and that's why we buy it.
  
• Whatever the youth of the product, the peat gives it a lovely fullness and a certain complexity. There may be some flaws, often a little light on the palate, but in any case the pleasure is there, and the doses of peat, iodine and charcoal are very generous, giving it great depth. My notes may seem exaggerated, but I really think they are measured and in keeping with the quality of the product. It is still necessary to add a little water to calm the alcoholic effluvia and round out the overall taste.
  
• It's from these bottlings that you can see the quality of the distillate, it's a few years old and it's already full of character, and well made. Whatever people say, the Islay distilleries are doing an excellent job, and many distilleries would like to do as well with juices that are only 4 or 5 years old.
  

 

 

 

Conclusion : 

There are now too many Peat Bombs to choose from, so it's time to clear the air a little so we know which ones to buy first. For me, the choice is already made. The Bårelegs Battle Axe is the best way to get Lagavulin at over 50° for less than 100 euros, the Scarabus Batch Strength is the best young Caol Ila possible, and the Big Peat Christmas Edition are perfect Blended Malts. If you prefer Sherry ageing, then Peat's Beast Pesro Ximénez is the perfect choice. I also love the Peat Monster in Cask Strength, but these are rare and expensive limited editions. The Elements of Islay range should be explored further, as it has just been renewed, and I haven't had a chance to taste any of the new bottlings. Apart from that, it's rare for Peat Bombs to be truly disappointing. You know what you're buying and you get what you asked for. 

I've got nothing against more nuanced, older whiskies, I've got plenty of those too and I love them, and I've got nothing against people who prefer something more polished either. But for me, Peat Bombs are the basis of whisky and you need to come back to them regularly. It's the core of the whisky and you get an extract from it with every sip.

Bowmore Mariner 15 yo Glass Printed Label

 

 

 

43°

Distillery : Bowmore - Islay

Ex-Bourbon Casks and Sherry Butts

Original Bottling 

Core Range 

Single Malt 

Launched in the earley 1990s

Unchillfiltered

Peated around 25 ppm

 

 

 

The Bowmore Mariner is a historic Bowmore expression. First appearing in the 1990s, it was then reserved for Travel Retail in 2007, when the 15 yo Darkest appeared. It was discontinued in 2014, and replaced by the short-lived 17 yo White Sands. This is Bowmore's old style, where the Sherry is fairly sparse, and the maritime character emphasised. The sample I was lucky enough to taste came from one of the expression's oldest bottles, the ones where the label is printed directly on the bottle. It dates from the late 90s, or the very early 2000s. The whisky inside was distilled in the mid-1980s, during the famous period of 'French Whore Perfume', usually abbreviated to FWP, when floral aromas of violet and lavender invaded the distillate, apparently due to a yeast problem. So it's a fine piece of history that I'm going to savour.

 

 

 

Let's Taste It : 

Nice iodised freshness with floral hints. You can smell the violet and lavender, but this time it's not unpleasant. It's a bit chemical, but the iodine balances it out. Peat a bit heavy, but discreet. Sea spray, icing sugar. Mint to freshen the breath. Herbaceous at the end, a touch of liquorice. Light and slightly peppery on the palate. Again, it balances out after a while, with a slight bitterness, grapefruit, asparagus, spinach, vanilla in the background. Light but fairly long finish, still bitter, drying, kola nut, woody, chestnut, chocolate.

 

In Short, 

It's no coincidence that the bottlings of that era didn't have a very good reputation. FWP is often thought of as a bit like toilet deodorant, but that's not really the case here, thanks to the iodine that hides the less pleasant scents and balances everything out. What is less pleasant, however, is the lingering bitterness on the palate and in the finish. What's more, it's a little too herbaceous. This bottle comes from a time when whisky was less famous, much cheaper too, and the quality was lower. It's also true that the bottle from which the sample I was generously offered came must have been opened a very long time ago, and the taste qualities must have been altered. All in all, it's not great. Some people think this Mariner is excellent, or so they say, perhaps to brag about having access to such rare bottles, or simply to boost the value of the ones they've bought. But some of them are sincere, I've met them. As for me, I still prefer a simple dram of Legend, and then it's cheaper. These bottles from the 90s now cost an arm and a leg, and are pure collectors' items, not really for tasting. It's better to keep them closed, because the liquid inside isn't that good, in my opinion. On the other hand, the bottles are magnificent.

Score : 81 

                                           To Be Listened While Sipping :

 

                                           Queensryche - Silent Lucidity

Unnamed Orkney 2006 The Ultimate 16 yo c. DRU17/A65#4

 

 

 

46°

Distillery Officially Unknown - Islands

Refill Butt

Independent Bottling 

By Van Wees

Limited Edition 

Single Cask 

Bottled in 2022

Unchilliltered, Uncoloured

Peated around 20 ppm

 

 

 

Over the last 5 years, The Ultimate has included a small number of Unnamed Orkney in its range, all of which date from 2005 and 2006. They must have acquired a large number of casks from those years. They are sometimes Single Cask, sometimes not, and they are all reduced. This one is a Single Cask, aged for 16 years in a Refill Butt, probably Sherry. The number of bottles produced is unknown, but must be just over 500.

 

 

 

Let's Taste It : 

Nose full of character, fresh iodine, gypsum cliffs, sea breeze, delicate peat, fairly intense heather blossom, banana, mirabelle, white plum, dash of vanilla. Coarse sea salt, sea spray, dry seaweed. Slight chalky hints. After a while, candied lemon softens the whole. On the palate, it's silky, mineral, lemony, green apple, slightly acidic, restrained spices, pepper and cumin, breadcrumbs, dry earth. The finish is quite long, subtly woody, tinder, dark bread, walnuts, pebble beach, a touch of salt, fig jam. A grape berry.

 

In Short, 

It's a Highland Park, no question about it, and a fine one. There's a lovely minerality and a noticeable influence of heather. It's a bit dirty, but that's how I like my Highland Parks. There's not much fruit and the cask influence is very discreet, so you get all the purity of the distillate, and I love it. It's a real shame that it's reduced, as it would be a killer in Cask Strength. What's more, when it was released, the price was extremely low, which surprised everyone. Of course, it quickly sold out, but other casks of the same vintage from the same bottler are still available, at a slightly higher price. You know what you have to do.

Score : 87

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

                                           To Be Listened While Sipping :

 

                                           Seasick Steve - Backbone Slip

Line Up #23 : Ardbeg, the Core Range

2 February 2024. 

 

 

 

 

 

The Line Up Concept : 

Ardbeg is obviously a much-talked-about distillery, and the source of much debate. It is a divisive distillery. Even more than its staggering peat content, it's its marketing strategy that's the talk of the town. By increasing the number of limited bottlings, they're making both friends and enemies. To clear up the debate, I decided to try a tasting of Ardbeg's Core Range in its entirety. It may be said that limited bottlings are overrated in terms of quality, that they are overpriced, that the design of their labels is sometimes embarrassing... But what about their Core Range?

For me, the quality of a distillery is measured above all by its Core Range. Limited bottlings come and go, some will be disappointing, others will be excellent, that's part of the game. The Core Range must remain stable and constant over the years. It is the distillery's showcase, and it must defend its colours. 

Ardbeg's current Core Range first appeared in the 2000s, first with the Ten, then with the Uigeadail. The Corryvreckan appeared a few years later, initially as a limited edition before being retained permanently. Then it took almost ten years for a new entry, the An Oa, and finally the Wee Beastie 4 years ago. That makes a total of 5 expressions and a decent Core Range, although it is unfortunate that there are so few aged expressions. Only the Ten and the Wee Beastie are aged, the others are NAS, which does not inspire confidence, especially as the Wee Beastie is very young. It is said that the quality of Corryvreckan and especially Uigeadail has declined over time, and it is very possible to use younger and younger casks, since no age is guaranteed on the bottle. But this is also the distillery's selling point, blending very young and powerful juices with older ones, so as to have the qualities of youth and age at the same time. All right, but the blending has to be done in the right proportions.

That's what we're going to find out with this tasting : Is Ardbeg's Core Range still as good as ever? What's so special about it? Can it still put everyone on the same wavelength, and dispel the rather tiresome controversy surrounding limited editions? By questioning the quality of its Core Range, we are always questioning the real value of a distillery.

 

 

 

 

The Tasting : 

Ardbeg An Oa :Released in 2017, this one has been triple matured and finished in French oak. It appears to be a friendlier version of Ardbeg, one that makes it easier to discover the distillery.

You can immediately smell the powerful, vegetal, earthy peat, softened by hints of Bourbon, vanilla and white plum. Pepper, mirabelle, ginger. The palate is a little light but pleasant, with a fairly long, virile finish of tobacco, nutmeg and chocolate. Score : 86

 

 

 

 

Ardbeg Wee Beastie 5 yo : This is the latest addition to the Core Range, which appeared in the middle of confinement in 2020. It gives pride of place to Sherry Oloroso.

It's as meaty as you could wish for, with fried bacon and greasy ham. Behind, a lovely fullness of salt and iodine. Cranberry jam and paprika. Thick, herbaceous peat. Nice complexity, with coffee and chocolate toffee. On the palate, it's light, vegetal, beautiful peat and spices, long and sparkling finish, cola, genoise, sesame, tobacco, a touch of coal and tar. Score : 86

 

 

 

 

Ardbeg Ten 10 yo :This entry marks the rebirth of the distillery. Closed between 1981 and 1989, it operated in slow motion until 1998, and two years later it was back in the limelight with this Ten. The ageing process is classic, in Bourbon casks.

Strong peat wrapped in a cocoon of iodine and white fruits. Beautiful balance, but it's still the peat that dominates, with a nice touch of citrus. The palate is velvety but a little light, with fine spices and a layer of herbaceous peat. The finish is very long, full of charcoal, tobacco, coffee, nutmeg, mustard, fig and soft, slightly burnt caramel. Score : 88

 

 

 

 

Ardbeg Uigeadail :This expression dates back to 2003 and really made a splash. The result of a blend of Bourbon and Sherry casks, it is one of the fundamentals of modern whisky.

Very powerful peat with a hint of red fruits, blueberries, blackberries, cherries, molasses and caramel. Chimney fire, enticing smoke. Nougat and nuts. Silky on the palate, with perfect balance. The spices rise to an incredible, devastating finish, full of soot and charcoal, coffee, dark chocolate and damp earth. Score : 90

 

 

 

 

Ardbeg Corryvreckan :Five years after the Uigeadail came the Corryvreckan. The result of a complex triple maturation process, some believe it to be better than Uigeadail, but the debate remains open.

Imperious, vegetal peat, enhanced by a vinous and fruity touch that blends very well, slightly acidic. On the palate, it's more discreet but balanced, and the spices are violent. The finish is apocalyptic, with unprecedented strength, tar and coal, soot, fuel oil, liquorice and dried fruits. Score : 89

 

 

 

 

What I gain from it : 

• The Core Range is, of course, a synthesis of the Ardbeg profile: violent, herby peat, a touch of citrus, a coastal character with iodine, sea spray and seaweed. And in the background, the silky smoothness that is its hallmark.
  
• Each of the 5 expressions that make up the Core Range is interesting in its own way, forming a whole that weaves itself around the Ten, 2 with a rather high alcohol content, 2 Sherry, 2 Bourbon, and the Corryvreckan, which stands a little apart. 

 

 

 

• However, the An Oa and the Wee Beastie are nice, but I'd swap them for an older expression, around 15/16 years old, that's what's missing. The An Oa and the Wee Beastie have a few small flaws, light on the palate, not very complex, which make them optional.
  
• On the other hand, if we stick to the three oldest expressions, Ten, Uigeadail and Corryvreckan, it's honestly perfect. I'm not aware of a Core Range of such quality. And if you take quality, not age, into account, the value for money is very attractive.
  

 

 

 

 Conclusion : 

We can continue to argue about the limited editions, some of which are frankly questionable, but in any case the Core Range is unassailable. OK, the An Oa and the Wee Beastie can be dispensed with. But the other three are truly superb, and any whisky lover worthy of the name who is not allergic to peat must own them. 

Uigeadail and Corryvreckan are also said to decline in quality over the years. The newer it is, the worse it is. It's true that I've come across some disappointing Batches, but they weren't necessarily the most recent. However, to be on the safe side, I recommend buying old Batches at auction. It's more expensive, but you're sure not to be disappointed. 

With Ardbeg, you can't lose sight of the essentials. And that's the Core Range. After that, if you look hard enough and pay the price, you can find some memorable limited editions, or even some excellent independent bottlings. But the basics remain the basics. 

Ballechin 2005 Matured in Burgundy Casks 17 yo

 

 

 

53,5°

Distillery : Edradour - Highlands

1st Fill Burgundy Wine Hogsheads

Original Bottling 

Limited Edition 

Single Malr 

Bottled in 2023

Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured, Cask Strength

Peated around 50 ppm

The Edradour distillery is undoubtedly one of those that offers the most original experiences. Here, a 17 year old aged in 8 Hogsheads of Burgundy wine, we would have liked to know which one. The result comes to 2103 bottles.

Let's Taste It : 

On the nose, candied cherries, morello cherries, amarena, blackberries, blueberries and blackcurrants, some citrus fruit in the background, nutmeg, cloves, and hints of forest undergrowth, moss, lichen, bark, ferns, heather. Discreet smoke, fairly greasy and mineral, with shards of charcoal. On the palate, the fruit becomes very slightly acidic, more raspberry, gooseberry, cranberry, intense spices mixed with an earthy and chalky peat. The finish is long and full, with notes of dark chocolate, chicory, cardamom, ginger, cinnamon, saffron and a drop of fuel oil.

 

In Short, 

The vinous influence is intense without being unpleasant, I find it more successful than the Longrow Red, because it's deeper and less acidic. You have to like the profile, of course. The price seems a bit high for what it is, but nothing outrageous.

Score : 89  

                                           To Be Listened While Sipping :

 

                                           Nibana - I am a Soul

Edradour 2011 Oloroso Sherry Butts Batch #2 12 yo

 

 

 

57,6°

Distillery : Edradour - Highlands

1st Fill and 2d Fill Oloroso Sherry Butts 

Original Bottling 

Limited Edition 

Single Malt 

Bottled in 2023

Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured, Cask Strength

Totally Unpeated

 

 

 

Last year, these two bottlings invaded the shelves of good wine merchants. Both were batches of Edradour aged for 12 years in Oloroso Sherry Butts. This is the second batch, the result of the blending of 5 Butts, making a total of 5,100 bottles. The good news is that it's unreduced, with no chill filtration or colouring.

 

 

 

Let's Taste It : 

Nose of gooseberries and muscat grapes, christmas pudding, cloves and custard, dried apricots, dates, blackberry and blackcurrant jam, melting toffee, sprinkled with cinnamon. Some malty notes in the background, heather and bark. On the palate, there are hints of blood orange, raspberry, sultanas and cranberries, quince jelly, candied ginger and exotic spices. The woody caramel adds a certain thickness. Nutmeg. Long finish, earth and bark, dark chocolate, coffee, chicory, forest berries.

 

In Short, 

The Sherry is very intense, and almost completely masks the identity of the distillery. The advantage is that it's very well done, with little rancio, no sulphur and no acidity. It is a very fine product, perfect for Sherry Bomb lovers, at a more or less fair price.

Score : 89

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

                                           To Be Listened While Sipping :

 

                                           Elsiane - Loneliness

Edradour 2011 Small Batch 12 yo

 

 

 

48,2°

Distillery : Edradour - Highlands

1st Fill Barbaresco Hogsheads 

Original Bottling 

Limited Edition 

Single Malt 

Bottled in 2023

Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured

Totally Unpeated

 

 

 

Apparently this Small Batch is the first chapter in a new annual range, as the 2nd bottling, for 2024, is about to be released. Each will be 12 years old, reduced to 48.2° precisely, and aged in a small number of wine casks. In this case, it will be Barbaresco, an Italian red wine produced in Piedmont. For the 2024 vintage, it will be Madeira wine. 8 first-fill Barbaresco casks were used, giving a total of 2921 bottles.

 

 

 

Let's Taste It : 

Prunes, soft toffee, Mon Chéri chocolate with the cherry inside, slight but not disturbing acidity, forest undergrowth, raisins, dates, blackcurrant, blackberry liqueur, pine needles, cloves. Smooth and silky on the palate, morello cherries, amarena, raspberries, with notes of earth and warm chestnuts, deep spices, damp bark, mushrooms. Fairly long finish, cocoa powder, genoise, it becomes more pastry-like, with thick caramel, jam, wood, liquorice.

 

In Short, 

It's vinous and intensely fruity, but forest and earthy notes prevent it from being acidic, so it's quite successful. You do have to like aging in wine casks, though. The price seems a bit high to me, but that must be linked to the originality of the product.

Score : 88

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

                                           To Be Listened While Sipping :

 

                                           Pinhdar - Murderers of a Dying God

Ardmore 12 yo Macbeth A Whisky Collection Seyton

 

 

 

52,5°

Distillery : The Ardmore - Speyside

Ex-Laphroaig American and European Oak Barrel

Independent Bottling 

By Elixir Distillers

Limired Edition

Single Malt

Bottled in 2022

Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured, Cask Strength

Heavily Peated

 

 

 

This is the second bottling I've tasted from this crazy project: turning the famous Scottish play into a gallery of bottles featuring each character. So far, nine characters have been illustrated. This bottle represents Seyton, Macbeth's household, who tells him that his wife has died in Act V. This is a particularly peaty Ardmore, aged in old Laphroaig casks. 3200 bottles were produced. The label was designed by Sir Quentin Blake.

Let's Taste It : 

On the nose, astringent peat and limestone, burnt plastic, pine needles, braised caramel. Slight iodine freshness, ocean air, a pinch of icing sugar. A medicinal touch, some white fruits, a mint leaf. The palate seemed to me to be very fruity, with mirabelle plums, greengages, bananas, pineapple and papaya. Still, there was a pinch of salt and a good layer of peat in the background. Not disturbing spices, nutmeg and cumin. Long, woody finish, with coriander and cloves mingling with dark chocolate and coffee. Mineral and coniferous notes.

 

In Short, 

I found it very successful, the influence of the Laphroaig casks gives punch to this Ardmore whose typical markers are recognisable. It is iodised, foresty (coniferous forest) and peaty, but also fruity. And it's all beautifully balanced. The price seems almost acceptable, but I'd have to taste it again before deciding to buy it.

Score : 89    

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

                                           To Be Listened While Sipping :

 

                                           No Name Faces - Silence

Line Up #22 : Are the Islands a whole region?

24 Décembre 2023.

 

 

 

                                           Aibhann Dearg distillery on the Isle of Lewis
 

 

The Line Up Concept : 

According to the Scotch Whisky Association, there are five whisky regions in Scotland: the Highlands, Speyside, the Lowlands, Islay and Campbeltown. This is the official version, but it dates from a time when there were around twenty distilleries in Campbeltown, and only 5 in the islands outside Islay. Today, the ratio has been reversed, there are only 3 distilleries left in Campbeltown, and now 11 distilleries have bottled at least one whisky in the islands, not counting Islay, which has 9. 11 distilleries is starting to sound like an interesting number. Couldn't we deduce from this that the islands represent a region on their own? That's what several sales sites are already doing, and what I've been doing myself since I started this blog. Why not, but an official whisky region must have its own identity. Campbeltown only has 3 distilleries, but they are easily recognisable and have their own identity, as do all the official whisky regions. Do the islands have a specific profile, particular characteristics, that would give them an identity? If so, what would these characteristics be? This is the question I asked myself as I began this tasting, which brings together 10 of the 11 distilleries listed on the islands, and 11 brands, since the Tobermory distillery also has the Ledaig brand.

                                            Tobermory distillery on the Isle of Mull

Here are the 11 distilleries I know: Aibhann Dearg on the Isle of Lewis, Highland Park and Scapa on the main island of Orkney, Talisker and Torabhaig on Skye, Tobermory on Mull, Isle of Arran and Lagg on the Isle of Arran, Isle of Raasay, Isle of Harris, and Isle of Jura on the islands of the same name. Out of these 11 distilleries, 6 are less than 30 years old, and 4 are less than 10 years old. If the islands are a region, then it's an emerging region. There have probably never been so many distilleries in these parts.

What brings all these distilleries together? What makes them identifiable as coming from one region and not another? To find this out, I've focused on basic bottlings, so that we don't end up with very elaborate whiskies, but with what makes up the base of a distillery, its benchmark. What's more, with the very young distilleries, there is nothing but 3 or 4 year old whiskies.

For Aibhann Dearg, it's impossible to get access to their juice, as it's not distributed internationally (but rumour has it that it's of poor quality). I have a bottle of all the other distilleries, and if I taste them all in a row, I'm better able to find their guidelines and common points.

 

 

 

                                            Talisker distillery on the Isle of Skye
 

 

The Tasting : 

Scapa The Orcadian Skiren Batch SK09 : Founded in 1885, the Scapa distillery was mothballed in 1994, then revived in 2005 when it was bought by Pernod Ricard. But in 2015, the owners decided to market only two expressions, unaged and reduced to a minimum, including this one.
The nose is very light, a little gravelly. Then it becomes floral. The palate is more expressive, malty and vanilla-flavoured. Light spices, a touch of bitterness, a pleasant finish, salt and lemon zest. Score : 82

 

Isle of Harris The Hearach Batch 5 : Opened in 2015, Isle of Harris is one of the newer distilleries. They are famous for their gin, and released their first single malt last year, in 2023.
It's salty and honeyed, cereal-like. But above all, it's light. A hint of vanilla, white fruits. The palate is silky, with liquid honey, hazelnuts, a touch of sherry and warm spices. Long, successful finish, spices and earth. Score : 86

 

 

 

                                            Isle of Harris distillery
 

 

The Arran Malt 14 yo : Isle of Arran was created in 1995, so although it's a recent development, it's now well established. The expression I chose has unfortunately been discontinued in 2019.
Fruity, airy nose. Plums, pears, apricots, quinces. A little herbaceous too, rustic. Some almonds. A bit light on the palate, but suave, with chestnut cream and fine spices. Long, well-crafted finish, humus, vanilla, chestnuts, damp earth. Score : 86

 

Tobermory 12 yo : The distillery now known as Tobermory is the oldest on the islands, dating back to 1798. Located on the Isle of Mull, it has two brands, one producing peated whisky, the other unpeated. This expression, launched in 2019, is the most representative of the unpeated brand.
The attack is more straightforward, iodised and slightly camphorated. Floral and herbaceous. Well-balanced on the palate, with caramel, walnuts, quinces, a pinch of salt and strong spices. Fierce but not very long finish, a drop of tar, wood and cinnamon. Score : 86

 

 

 

                                            Highland Park distillery on the main Island of Orkkney
 

 

Highland Park 12 yo Viking Honour : It is difficult to establish the date of birth of this distillery, which obtained its licence in 1826, but it is certain that it existed illegally before that. It is thought to have been founded in 1798. This is the brand's most popular expression. 
Liquid honey and iodine, a fine blend. White grape and caramel, heather. Creamy vanilla, hint of peat. Light palate; a vague note of honey and vanilla, pastry cream. Fairly long finish, nutmeg. Score : 84

 

Talisker 10 yo :This distillery is undoubtedly the best known in the area, and this expression, which has been around for over 40 years, is emblematic.
A ladleful of coarse sea salt, with honey in the background. Quite strong peat. The palate is a little clear, salty and vanilla-flavoured. The finish is long, peppery, but also salty. Oysters and scallops. Very long and explosive. Score : 86

 

 

 

                                            Isle of Jura distillery
 

 

Jura Superstition : The Isle of Jura distillery was licensed in 1831, but has apparently been in existence since 1810. It generally produces an unpeated whisky, but I have chosen one of its two peated expressions to represent it, as it is the oldest, appearing in 2002.
Light, elegant smoky peat, with soft toffee, quince purée and prunes. Light on the palate, dried apricots, ashes, fairly strong spices. Correct finish, oily, cola, vergeoise, hot chestnuts. Score : 84

 

Isle of Raasay Lightly Peated R-01 3 yo : Another very recent distillery, founded in 2017. The expressions are varied, and this is one of the first to be released in 2021.
Similar to Talisker, the nose is salty and iodised, but softer and better tamed. Sea peat, yellow fruit and vanilla. Light palate, salt and limestone, timid spices. Long finish, full of character and well crafted. Score : 85

 

 

 

 

                                            Isle of Raasay distillery

 

Torabhaig 2017 The Legacy Series The Inaugural Release 3 yo : Also founded in 2017, this distillery released its first expression in 2021, and it's this one. Others have followed since.
Initially very vanilla-flavoured, the nose then becomes more costal, the peat is milky, with iodine, sea breeze and seaweed. The palate is light, with the influence of bourbon and fairly strong spices. It's honeyed. The finish is nice and long, with vanilla and pastry cream. Score : 85

 

Ledaig 10 yo : This is the brand name for the peaty bottlings from the Tobermory distillery. This expression, which dates back to 2010, is very popular.
Dirty nose, very peaty, sharp iodine, tar, and at the same time it's quite fine. Melted plastic, limestone, pinch of salt. Enticing smoke, motor oil. Well malted and vanilla-flavoured palate, with a thick layer of peat. Spices in harmony. Long, perfect finish, gas oil, but also spices, icing sugar, cloves, soft caramel. Coffee and toffee. Score : 87

 

 

 

 

                                            Lagg distillery on the Isle of Arran

 

Lagg Corriecravie Edition 3 yo : The owners of Isle of Arran launched this 2nd distillery in 2019., on the same island This expression was finished in Sherry casks and released in 2023.
Very well blended Sherry, crumble, brown sugar, red fruits. Touches of iodine. Charred roundness, some meaty hints. Subtle smokiness. Silky on the palate, heavy with red fruits and lots of peat. Long, spicy finish, chocolate, coffee, blackcurrants and blackberries, damp earth. Heather. Score : 88

 

 

 

                                            Torabhaig distillery on the Isle of Skye 

 

 

What I gain from it : 

• The whiskies of the islands are quite varied, ranging from Arran, which is light, fruity and floral, to Lagg, a 50 ppm peat monster. This is a transitional region between the Highlands and Islay, with a profile that strikes a balance between airy fruit and peat.
  
• However, there are also markers specific to the islands: this is a region where whiskies are iodised, salty and even mineral. Nevertheless, the fruit is always present and creates a fine balance with this costal profile. Islay is also costal, which is normal, it's an island too, but the peat is more present there, and none of its distilleries are lightly peated, whereas in the islands this is the case for the majority. 

 

 

 

                                            Isle of Arran distillery

• I've already said that the islands are an emerging region, or a reborn one, because most of the distilleries are young. They are promising, but still far from reaching their full potential. But also, three ancient distilleries are still under-exploited. Highland Park, Isle of Jura and especially Scapa are marketing bottlings that are too shy, in which their island whisky nature is hidden. For Highland Park, this is mainly due to the fact that the whisky is chill-filtered, a practice now obsolete and abandoned by many good Scottish distilleries. But for Isle of Jura and Scapa, I can assure you that the independent bottlings are far better than the original ones. It makes me think that for a long time, island distilleries have tried to pass themselves off as Highland whiskies, by repressing their nature. The result is a juice that is flawed because it doesn't embrace itself. It's time for these distilleries to make a revolution and show us what they're capable of. Isle of Jura already renewed its range in 2018, and it was much better, but it's still not good enough in my humble opinion.   
  

 

 

                                            Scapa distillery on the main Island of Orkney
 

 

Conclusion : 

I sincerely believe that the islands are a region of their own. They were officially so, it seems, in the distant past, in the 19th century, but this status was subsequently taken away from them. It's time to give them their chance again. This is a region with a distinctive identity, with whiskies that are salty and iodised, in a word, costal, but more nuanced than the radical whiskies of Islay. With the exception of Lagg and Ledaig, which could very well be likened to Islay. As far as I'm concerned, Isle of Arran is the only distillery that doesn't have these costal characteristics, all the others do, even if it's sometimes very discreet. It's nevertheless the mark of a beautiful homogeneity, stronger than in the Highlands or Speyside. 

                                            Kimbland distillery on the Isle of Sanday in the Orkney Archipelago

However, it has to be said that the islands are still very much a region in process of development. Most of the distilleries are very young, and even among the older ones, there is work to be done to release the true nature of the distillate. 

To be honest, it's a region whose potential is still barely glimpsed. With many of the qualities that have made Islay such a success, but presented in a less divisive way. With Islay, you either love it or hate it; the products are so full of character that you're driven to an extreme reaction. With island whiskies, consensus is possible. These whiskies can be enjoyed by fans of Speyside and Islay alike. 

 

 

 

                                            The Orkney Distillery on the main Island of Orkney
 

It will take at least another ten years for the young distilleries to reach maturity. By then, other distilleries may have launched their first whisky. Deerness, a distillery that produces gin and vodka, has announced the expansion of their site to produce whisky in 2023. They have claimed to be the first new whiksy distillery in 138 years on the Orkney archipelago, but they may well be beaten to the punch. Kimbland, founded in 2020, announced the same year that their first whisky distillation would take place within weeks. But perhaps the fastest will be The Orkney Distillery, who have announced that they have distilled their first whisky in March 2024. Another distillery, Isle of Tiree, is preparing to release its first single malt whisky in January 2025. We talk a lot about the rise of Islay, but the rise of the islands is even more impressive. 

                                            Isle of Tiree distillery