Friday, 31 March 2023

Lagavulin 1991 Feis Ile 2015

 
 
 
59,9°
Distillery : Lagavulin - Islay
American Bourbon, Pedro Ximénez and Sherry Puncheon Casks
Original Bottling 
Limited Edition 
Single Malt 
Bottled in 2015
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured, Cask Strength
Peated around 38 ppm
 
 
 
Sometimes, the owners of Lagavulin go completely wild and release an out-of-age wonder for the usual occasions, in this case Feis Ile, which has been the pretext for a new bottling every year since 2007. This time, we have a little jewel that has undergone a rather complex triple maturation, produced in 3500 copies, sold exclusively at the distillery, and yet quickly disappeared. Although it doesn't say so on the label, it would appear that this beauty is well over 24 years old, it's even advertised on auction sites.
 
 
 
 
Let's Taste It : 
Moist, sticky peat. Tropical humidity. Like being in a mangrove or a bayou. Notes of vanilla and hazelnut. Sandalwood, dried grapes. With the addition of a few drops of water, it really comes into its own. Iodine and thick smoke, muddy earth, chewing tobacco, biscuit cream, speculoos. Peanut butter. Satin on the palate. A silky liquor with a very pleasant sweetness. Then the spices kick in, cumin, pepper, cloves, cardamom. And even a little chilli. Beyond that, thick peat, but also cream puff. It's velvety. Cigar smoke. Vanilla bean, dark chocolate. The finish is as explosive as it is long, even never-ending, with charcoal, fat, liquorice, heather, cola, artichoke heart and walnut. Length in the mouth, avocado, birch bark, reeds.
 
In Short, 
A little disappointed by the nose, which lacks nuances and is not ethereal like some Lagavulins. Frankly, I have tasted better from this distillery. The fact remains that on the palate, it is very pleasant, and the finish is exceptional. But for me the nose is important, and even if this one is very good, it is not at the expected level. Moreover, the price is dizzying, and the minimum that can be demanded under these conditions is the sublime. That is not the case here.
Score : 90
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                           To Be Listened While Sipping :
 
                                           Dan Patlansky - Heart of Stone

Tuesday, 21 March 2023

Caol Ila 2010 Cask Strength Collection 10 yo c. 316643

 
 
 
59,5°
Distillery : Caol Ila - Islay 
Refill Sherry Butt
Independent Bottling 
By Signatory Vintage 
Limited Edition 
Single Cask
Bottled in 2020
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured, Cask Strength
Peated around 35 ppm
 
 
 
This is the 3rd cask that I have tasted among the 11 that were distilled in Caol Ila on September 22, 2010 and immediately sold to Signatory Vintage. For the first two, the profile was very similar, and that's for a good reason, the aging was the same, in Refill Sherry casks. This is the oldest, bottled on October 21, 2020, the juice is exactly 10 years and 29 days old. 599 bottles were produced.
 
 
 
 
Let's Taste It : 
Soft toffee and cold ash. The breadth of the Oloroso, thick peat, typical Caol Ila profile, it's instantly recognisable. Some fruits stand out, pineapple, grapefruit, mountain honey. Enticing smoke. Vegetal fragrances. With the addition of water, apple crumble, cinnamon, fudge, candied fig, warm chestnuts. Then the smoke returns. A zest of lemon. Burning hay. The palate is a little dry, woody, and almost immediately spicy: cumin, cloves, black pepper, cardamom, nutmeg. I can feel the grooves in the wood, the burn of the torch, it's toasted wood, the caramel is coal-like. Tall herbs, dusty earth. The finish is long and powerful, never-ending, perfect. Quite sweet, genoise and marzipan, an ounce of vanilla, but also woody, nervous, liquorish. Cola, slightly bitter. Starch.
 
In Short, 
Similar profile to the previous two casks, deep Sherry with ash and soot. No iodine, but lovely fruity and slightly herbaceous fragrances. In my humble opinion, it is the best of the three casks, because there are very enjoyable nuances of exotic fruits. It can still be found on a few European sites, it's expensive for what it is, but you'll have a great time.
Score : 89
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                           To Be Listened While Sipping :
 
                                           Big Big Train - The Fiorentine

Monday, 20 March 2023

Caol Ila 2009 The Single Malts of Scotland 11 yo c. 317838

 
 
 
58,8°
Distillery : Caol Ila - Islay
Bourbon Hogshead
Independent Bottling 
By Elixir Distillers 
Limited Edition 
Single Cask 
Bottled in 2020
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured
Peated around 38 ppm
 
 
 
There are three different Caol Ila barrels distilled in 2009 and bottled by Elixir Distillers 11 years later. This is why I mention the cask number. However, this is the only one that was bottled in 2020, after exactly 11 years and 7 days. The others were put on the market in 2021. This one, hence the earliest, gave 300 bottles exactly. The policy at The Single Malts of Scotland is to bottle at "the optimum strength", not Cask Strength. That said, this is most definitely a cask strength, 300 bottles with a rather high alcohol content, I wonder what they could have diluted.
 
 
 
 
Let's Taste It : 
It's fresh, the iodine is intense but well managed, with a lovely pungent lemon and a vague enticing peat. Oysters, whelks, sea breeze, it's salty, with seaweed and foam, the usual ingredients on Islay. Bitter wood, grapefruit, a drop of rum. Tall herbs, dry hay. With water, it softens a little. Intoxicating smoke. Apricot purée, crumble. Relatively light on the palate, but pleasant, lemony, vanilla flavoured, spicy, cumin, paprika, grey pepper. A few maritime touches, boutargues and shellfish. Cola, fig cream. The finish is long, fairly powerful but also well controlled, settling slowly. Nutmeg, heather, fine herbs, a little earthy, sparkling, charcoal. Marrons glacés.
 
In Short, 
It's a classic Caol Ila, well crafted, with intense iodine and a little sweetness. You barely smell the peat, but the iodine, you can smell it. We talk about Peat Bombs and Sherry Bombs, I wonder if we shouldn't mention the Iodine Bombs too. If you like the profile, and that's my case, you have a good time. The good news is that it's not expensive and it's not quite sold out, it can still be found on some European sites. Frankly, it's worth thinking about, a purchase would be appropriate. That's what's good about this range, they come out with high-flying killers, but also simpler things, and they don't hesitate to please the most humble enthusiasts.
Score : 88
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                           To Be Listened While Sipping :
 
                                           Dirtwater - Mountain Man

Sunday, 19 March 2023

Lagavulin 1991 Diageo Special Release 2012 21 yo

 
 
 
52°
Distillery : Lagavulin - Islay 
1st Fill Ex-Sherry European Casks
Original Bottling 
Limited Release 
Single Malt 
Bottled in 2012
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured, Cask Strength
Peated around 38 ppm
 
 
 
From time to time, these gentlemen from Diageo include a very old Lagavulin within the Special Releases. In 2021, for example, we were entitled to a 26 year old. And in 2013, it was a 37 year old! Well, apart from that, it's pretty rare nonetheless, especially lately. That's why it's always a small event when one of these very old Lagavulin comes out, it's bound to be rare and very expensive, and everyone talks about it. Here, it is a 21 year old, aged in Sherry casks, released in 2772 copies. At the time, it was one of the oldest official bottlings.
 
 
 
 
Let's Taste It : 
Very fine balance, with vanilla and bare wood. Elegant, racy smoke. Humus, earthy depth, forest undergrowth. It rained on ferns, light fog, walnuts and truffles. Chocolate, almonds, tree bark. Liquorice. Fried bananas. Ripe mirabelles. Minty freshness. On the palate, fig jam, tinder, chestnut cream. Light spices, paprika, white pepper. Filled pralines, coffee grounds, nutmeg, cloves. The finish is extremely long, gradually developing great power, heather, dried fruit, hot chestnuts. Marzipan. Yellow apples.
 
In Short,
It's obviously very good, and even excellent, but I was expecting something really crazy, and it wasn't the case. The Sherry remains discreet, everything is monstrously balanced, and suddenly nothing stands out, nothing upsets. It's just incredibly well done. The price leaves you speechless, we really come to crazy extremes.
Score : 91
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                           To Be Listened While Sipping :
 
                                           Sondre Lerche - Why Would I Let You Go?

Saturday, 18 March 2023

Caol Ila 2012 Càrn Mòr Strictly Limited 8 yo

 
 
 
47,5°
Distillery : Caol Ila - Islay
Oloroso Sherry Butts
Independent Bottling 
By Morrison Scotch Whisky Distillers
Limited Edition
Single Malt 
Bottled in 2021
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured
Peated around 35 ppm
 
 
 
The Strictly Limited range appeared in 2012, it brings together varied bottlings, but young and reduced for the most part. It is always a blend of a few casks, hence the name. Here we have a Caol Ila aged for 8 years in Oloroso casks, and sold in the number of 1365 bottles, that is to say three or four casks. The bottler of this beautiful little thing changed its name recently. It was called Morrison and MacKay, it is now called Morrison Scotch Whisky Distillers.
 
 
 
 
Let's Taste It : 
Ashy smoke, soot and charcoal, enhanced with a dollop of brown sugar and dried grapes. Soft toffee, wild strawberries, black berries, blueberries, it's finger-licking good. Almost vinous. Apple crumble. The palate is as pronounced in red fruits as the nose, but a little more fermented. It's sticky, syrupy, a little carbonated. Blackberries, a drop of blackcurrant, figs, varnished wood in the background. The spices are very discreet, paprika and nutmeg. A pinch of mustard on the very long finish, with nutmeg, dates and liquorice returning.
 
In Short,
Typical of Caol Ila aged in Sherry or wine casks. No iodine, but the smoke comes out stronger, blacker. Delicate notes of red fruits, dried fruits, caramel, brown sugar, liquorice, spices. Nothing particularly original but it's so nice. Nothing to say about this bottling, only one small reservation: it lacks power for my taste. And not just because it's reduced, there's very little spice, the finish is by no means explosive. I have known whiskies that are less strong in alcohol and more powerful. But it can be very appreciated on the contrary, in any case it is well done. On its release, the price was really reasonable, the purchase was fundamental. Now it' has doubled and it's not really worth it.
Score: 88
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                           To Be Listened While Sipping :
 
                                           Spotlights - Sunset Burial

Wednesday, 15 March 2023

An Islay Distillery 2008 Cadenhead Small Batch 9 yo

 
 
 
54,9°
Distillery Officially Unknown - Islay 
Bourbon Barrel and Sherry Hogshead
Independent Bottling
By William Cadenhead Limited
Limited Edition 
Single Malt 
Bottled in 2018
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured, Cask Strength
Peated around 38 ppm
 
 
 
It's rare to find independent bottlings from Lagavulin. And most of the time, they are not advertised as such. Here, for example, is this bottling from Cadenhead's Small Batch range, whose origin they have chosen to keep confidential. It is a blend of two casks, a Bourbon one and a Sherry Hogshead. The result was 330 bottles, all of which have found their owners.
 
 
 
 
Let's Taste It : 
Typical Lagavulin peat, dust, dry earth, Bourbon vanilla, juicy white plums, mirabelles, pastry cream. Iced lemon, a pinch of sugar, genoise, liquid honey. With the addition of water, the peat comes out, beautiful smoke, barbecue, bacon sizzling on the pan. Lavender and other floral fragrances. A bit of iodine, which goes well with the peat. The whole is mellow, well-balanced. On the palate, as honeyed as ever, but the spices quickly add zest: cumin, nutmeg, cardamom, pepper, clove. Full-bodied, woody, a little earthy. Licorice. The acidity of lemon, a leafy note. Laurel. Long finish, tree bark, heather, conifer, charcoal, cola, dark and damp earth. A hint of bitterness, and it fizzes on the tip of the tongue.
 
In Short, 
Very nice and balanced, yet I felt the Bourbon first. It is close to the 12 year old SR, with a little more fruit and youth, and therefore power. it deserves our attention. Moreover, at the time of its release, the price was rather magnanimous. I'm curious how far it would go today.
Score : 89
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                           To Be Listened While Sipping :
 
                                           The Sherlocks - Sirens

Thursday, 9 March 2023

Lagavulin 18 yo Feis Ile 2016

 
 
 
49,5°
Distillery : Lagavulin - Islay
Refill American Hogsheads and Ex-Bodega European Sherry Butts
Original Bottling
Limited Edition 
Single Malt 
Bottled in 2016
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured, Cask Strength
Peated around 35 ppm
 
 
 
Islay bottlings in tribute to Feis Ile are always hard to find. At Lagavulin, they've been around since 2007, and none of the few I've been lucky enough to taste have disappointed me so far. Here we have an 18-year-old, the result of a blend of Sherry and American casks. It was sold as a 6,000-bottle release from May 2016.
 
 
 
 
Let's Taste It : 
Cozy peat, with nougat, candied lemon, white plum, beautiful smoke that gradually grows stronger, vigorous, marine fragrances with shellfish, whelks, seaweed, razor clams. The sand of the beach, soaked in seawater. With the addition of water, the smoke expands and becomes really thick, but the fruits are not forgotten. Vanilla, fresh cream, cherry tomatoes, herbaceous hints. Dry earth, peanuts. At the end, the peat is truly imposing, but not without a certain sweetness. Gingerbread, honey, dried grapes. Tobacco leaves. On the palate, the peat becomes more spongy, muddy and grassy, with spices interfering, paprika, nutmeg, cardamom and a woodiness that verges on bitterness. Sea salt. Pleasant finish, where the citrus fruits come back a little, long, powerful, sandy, cola, sage, dark chocolate and dried fruits. Smoked tea.
 
In Short, 
I compared my humble notes with those of Serge Valentin and Ruben, and the fact is that they have nothing to do with my feelings. So it's possible that I missed something, or that there was a mistake on the sample. However, I found this edition a little smokier than the others, which I liked, but also a little less complex, which is reflected in the note. I often find Lagavulins too sweet, but that wasn't the case here. And so much the better! The fact remains that the value for money is not great, it's even dreadful in fact, but that's a bit logical, this kind of bottle was made to be bought on the spot, in the days of Feis Ile. Several years later, the prices are extravagant.
Score : 89
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                           To Be Listened While Sipping :
 
                                           Extreme - Cupid's Dead

Saturday, 4 March 2023

Ledaig 2007 Hidden Spirits 12 yo

 
 
 
52,8°
Distillery : Tobermory - Islands 
Refill Bourbon Hogshead 
Independent Bottling 
By Hidden Spirits 
Limited Edition 
Single Cask 
Bottled in 2020
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured, Cask Strength
Peated around 37 ppm
 
 
 
It's barely ten years since Hidden Spirits was founded, and yet it's as if  they were among the oldest Italian trading houses. Three Ledaig casks distilled in 2007 were purchased by Andrea Ferreri's company, and each was bottled at a different age, presumably to compare. This is the oldest, it stayed for 12 years in a Refill Bourbon hogshead, which gave the distillate all its expressiveness, before conquering the cellars in the form of 310 bottles.
 
 
 
 
Let's Taste It : 
Quite astringent just after being poured into the glass, you need to be patient, and a nice smoke rises. Burnt plastic, cigarillo ash, toasted wood. A few drops of caramel. It gets better and better, the ash gets deeper, vegetal, leafy, forest peat, heather, black earth, humus. Moist charcoal. With the addition of water, white plums, but you have to say it fast. Oil, harbour smells, I can almost hear the seagulls wading in the gas oil. Ripe banana. A vanilla pod soaked in motor oil. On the palate, it's strongly peaty, thick, muddy, spongy, then spices, cumin, grey pepper, cardamom. Lignite. Soot. Asphalt softened by heat. Bitumen. Crushed herbs, hay, oats. Towards the end, chocolate, with blueberry. Very long finish, but not so powerful, slow and soft, honeyed, molasses, vanilla ice cream that gradually melts. Cola. Genoise biscuit with speculoos. Peanut butter.
 
In Short, 
I loved it, but it certainly can't be poured into every glass. It's totally radical, expressive, extreme. It's impossible for everyone to like it, and I'm grateful to Hidden Spirits for distributing such an unconsensual product. My rating is harsh, because it lacks a little complexity, but it's close to what I look for most in whisky, uncompromising products that give the full measure of their character. Obviously, with a quality like this, it's been sold out for a long time, but you have to trust the auction sites, where you can find it at a bearable price, I hope.
Score : 89
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                           To Be Listened While Sipping :
 
                                           Royal Republic - Full Steam Spacemachine