Friday, 30 August 2024

Octomore 2010 A Dream of Scotland 11 yo

 
 
 
56,2° 
Distillery : Bruichladdich - Islay
Pauillac Red Wine Cask Finish
Independent Bottling 
By Brühler Whiskyhaus
Limited Edition 
Single Cask 
Bottled in 2021
Unchillfiltered, Cask Strength
Heavily Peated



This Octomore spent 8 years in a barrel of something we don't know, but it's certainly a good big Bourbon one. Then it was placed for three years in a barrel of French wine from Pauillac, renowned for its power and aromatic complexity. 268 bottles came out of this process. They were gathered together in the A Dream of Scotland range, but also in the Bad Santa 3 batch, that Brühler Whiskyhaus sometimes made around Christmas.
 
 
 

Let's Taste It : 
Intense and relatively dry smoke, even vegetal. The wine barrel asserts itself slowly, first with slightly grimy liquorice, then with red fruits coated in soot. A grain of red cranberry. Blueberries cooked in the oven. Hot bread. It becomes a little acidic after a while. It's sparkling on the palate, still fruity, redcurrant tart, raspberry coulis. Intense but rich spices, cloves, black pepper. Long, barely violent finish, more blackcurrant and black wood. Damp earth, melting chocolate. Toffee cannelés.
 
In Short, 
As always, this is Octomore, so it's very peaty, it's intense, it's violent. And as is often the case, the maturation is daring, but here it's not totally successful in my opinion, the red wine gives a few acid notes that bothered me a little. Nonetheless, this is a good Octomore, rich and powerful, very pleasant to drink. If you find one, let me know, but it will depend on the price.
Score : 89
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                           To Be Listened While Sipping :
 
                                           Seven Spires - Almosttown

Thursday, 29 August 2024

Tullibardine 225 Sauternes Cask Finish

 
 
 
43°
Distillery : Tullibardine - Highlands
1st Fill Bourbon Casks and Sauternes Barriques Finish
Original Bottling 
Core Range 
Single Malt 
Launched in 2013
Unchillfiltered
Totally Unpeated
 
 
 
This expression has been part of Tullibardine's regular range for a good ten years now. The label changed around 2020, but probably not the recipe. It is matured in first-fill Bourbon casks for 5 to 7 years, then finished for a year in Sauternes barriques from Château Suduiraut. These barriques hold 225 litres, hence the name.
 
 
 

Let's Taste It : 
Mentholated freshness, ginger, egg custard. Génoise, brioche, with orange blossom. Chlorophyll, honeysuckle. Honey and marshmallow. Aqueous but pleasant on the palate, full of white fruits, plums and grapes, pineapple, little vinous and floral touches, creamy vanilla, treacle, quince jelly. Malted cereals. Barely perceptible spices. Relatively long, correct, pleasant finish, green apples, cola, mint julep, crushed almonds. Shortbread biscuits.
 
In Short, 
I really liked it, the Sauternes brings a very pleasant fruity and sweet flavour, which erases the minor flaws of this rather young whisky. It's gourmand, it goes down well on its own, and it still has an identity. The price is right in general, but what bothers me is that it's becoming hard to find. Perhaps the distillery is considering discontinuing production? That would be a shame.
Score : 85 









                                           To Be Listened While Sipping :
 
                                           Sunday (1994) - Tired Boy

Wednesday, 28 August 2024

Holyrood Distillery Embra

 
 
 
43,6°
Distillery : Holyrood Distillery - Lowlands
1st Fill Bourbon, Islay Peated Whisky Quarter Casks ans Virgin American Oak
Original Bottling 
Core Range 
Single Malt 
Launched in 2024
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured
Lightly Peated



After The Arrival in 2023, Embra is the 2nd expression to come out of the vats of Holyrood Distillery, founded in 2019. It is a lightly peated whisky, made from 56% peated Mash. The two varieties of barley used are Vienna and Cloud, and maturation is triple, but the majority comes from first-fill Bourbon casks. The distillery's website even gives the recipe for the yeasts used, which is interesting even if you don't understand anything about it.




Let's Taste It : 
Light and very controlled peat, coated in fudge, speculoos, sponge cake, apple crumble. Mirabelle plums, greengages, hints of herbs and vanilla. A pinch of iodine, gravel. It's quite earthy. Velvety, well-crafted palate, though a little clear. White yoghurt. The pepper rises. Vegetal finish, with a touch of bitterness, suitably long but not explosive. Bark and oak leaves. Foresty notes, acorns, pine cones. Limestone and gypsum. Mint leaf, cola nuts. Coconut cream.
 
In Short, 
It's very well made overall, but still young, and I find it lacks a bit of personality. It's a fine piece of work, but I can't see the character of the distillery. The price is too high at the moment, which is normal, as young distilleries can't afford to compete with the older ones.
Score : 85
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                           To Be Listened While Sipping :
 
                                           Zoe Sparks - The Fakeup Song

Monday, 26 August 2024

Secret Islay 2013 Blind Summit 10 yo

 
 
 
55,6°
Distillery Officially Unknown - Islay
Refill Bourbon Cask and Oloroso Sherry Finish
Independent Bottling 
By Blind Summit 
Limited Edition 
Single Cask 
Bottled in in 2024
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured, Cask Strength 



Blind Summit is an independent bottler based in the Leith district in Edinburgh. They started production last year and this is only their 6th bottling. The two founders of the company, Jamie and James, bring us this nectar from an undisclosed distillery of Islay. It is described as heavily peated, and finished for 12 months in Oloroso. Only 120 bottles came out of the cask, and given that they were 50cl bottles, that's not a lot of whisky. But the two friends say they are only interested in small parcels. According to one website, the distillery that produced this little thing comes from the south of the island and is close to Laphroaig. So it could be a Lagavulin? The label was designed by Liam Palermo.



 
Let's Taste It : 
Initially light smoke, gradually becoming overpowering. Delicate notes of butterscotch, peanut butter and mirabelle plums. Well-controlled maritime peat. It becomes airier and even more elegant with a few drops of water. Salt and limestone in the background, perhaps guano. Dead leaves, chestnut bogue, bark. Very liquid honey, fruity and creamy after a while. Very sweet on the palate, oyster milk, sea salt, almonds, then the spices rise slowly, pepper, cloves, cumin. The finish is very strong, enveloping the palate, then long, charcoal and cola, boiled wood, nutmeg, rocket, chervil.
 
In Short, 
I can confirm that this is Lagavulin. It's similar to the 8yo, but better balanced, and more powerful of course. The Sherry cask finish is not really noticeable, perhaps the distillate is slightly mellowed. It's a good product, and the price is right. You can still find it on some British websites, but 120 bottles goes fast, so you'd better hurry.
Score : 88
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                           To Be Listened While Sipping :
 
                                           Fuzzrider - Black Snake Boogie

Saturday, 24 August 2024

An Orkney Distillery 2009 The Single Malts of Scotland 12 yo c. 7

 
 
 
56,3°
Distillery Officially Unknown - Islands
Sherry Hogshead
Independent Bottling 
By Elixir Distillers 
Limited Edition 
Single Cask 
Bottled in 2022
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured
Peated around 20 ppm 



In recent years, Elixir Distillers has made a speciality of Highland Park aged in Sherry casks. Of course, officially we're not supposed to know that this is the most prestigious distillery to come out of the Orkney Islands, but it's no secret to anyone. Of the 7 bottlings from this distillery released by the famous company in 2022, 4 are aged in Sherry casks, and one is mixed, half Sherry, half Bourbon. The one we're talking about is one of these. Aged for 12 years and 5 months in a Sherry Hogshead, it gave birth to 327 bottles.




Let's Taste It : 
Right away, we know it's going to be big Sherry. And we're not disappointed, shoe polish, red fruit purée, blackcurrants, raspberries, blueberries, wood varnish, tomato soup, golden walnuts, barbecue sauce, curry. But there's also a balanced woodiness and notes of heather typical of the distillery. Indian spices, a touch of rancio but no sulphur. The palate is more balanced, with on one side caramelised walnut wood, chestnut cream and dried figs, and on the other mirabelle plums and prunes, bushes, conifers and hot chestnuts. Very discreet spices, grated nutmeg, cloves, saffron. Long, bewitching finish, ginger, roots, muscat grape pomace, fragrant bark, dark and damp earth, blackberry jam. Dark chocolate chips. Smoked wood leaves.
 
In Short, 
I'm not very enthusiastic about this one. I like Sherry a lot, but either it's a Sherry Bomb, which takes us into a magnificent fruity universe, or the Sherry is there to match and enhance the qualities of the distillate. Here, it's not one of these two cases. The Sherry is still too shy to be a real Bomb, and it's too strong to enhance the distillate. This in-between leaves me hungry for more. But that's just a matter of taste, others may love it. The fact remains that, 18 months after its release, it is no longer easy to find, and at an inordinate price.
Score : 88









                                           To Be Listened While Sipping :
 
                                           The Metamodern - Devil in the Dress

Friday, 23 August 2024

Kilchoman 2018 Sauternes Cask Matured 2024 Edition

 
 
 
50° 
Distillery : Kilchoman - Islay 
1st Fill and Refill Sauternes Barriques
Original Bottling 
Limited Edition 
Single Malt 
Bottled in 2024
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured
Peated around 50 ppm
 
 
 
This is the third edition of Sauternes Cask Matured, the others having taken place in 2016 and 2018, but several Single Cask editions have been matured or finished with Sauternes, in 2021 and 2022. Here, we have an ageing entirely made in Sauternes casks, with 22% of the liquid marinated in First Fill casks, and the rest in Refill, most of which had previously been used for the 2018 edition, which only underwent a 5-month finish in Sauternes casks. According to Kilchoman founder Anthony Wills, ‘using Sauternes casks for finishing is the ideal preparation for full maturation, the shorter finishing period extracts the most intense Sauternes influence, creating casks that develop plenty of Sauternes character without losing structure or balance.’ Many of the casks were filled in 2018, but some were filled in 2017. We don't know how many bottles went on sale, but the 2018 edition had 10,000 bottles, so here I think there are a few more.




Let's Taste It : 
Very windy, slightly herbaceous peat, chasselas grapes, greengages and banana, cooked pears, lime, île flottante, meringue, cheesecake, pistachio macaroon, it's very smooth. On the palate, it's spicy, pepper and cloves, still white grapes and banana, but this time combined with liquid honey, butterscotch, mirabelle plum liqueur, white peaches, some exotic fruits, papaya, mango, pineapple. Long, very explosive finish, delicate liquorice, woody bitterness, salt trail, ginger. Braised endives.

In Short, 
This is a very successful, well-balanced Kilchoman, in which the Sauternes comes through without being too sweet or overpowering. The peat is softened, but still full of character. It's easy to drink, but it's still big peat. The whisky lover who doesn't like peat and whom I gave a taste of this said it was 'shit'. So we're sticking to the divide, and so much the better. If Kilchoman became consensual, it would be a disaster. As for the price, it's high as with all Kilchoman, but if you look hard enough you'll find more reasonable amounts.
Score : 89
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                           To Be Listened While Sipping :
 
                                           Clouds - If These Walls Could Speak

Thursday, 22 August 2024

Ledaig 2009 The Art of Maturation Benchmark 15 yo

 
 
 
53,2° 
Distillery : Tobermory - Islands
Bourbon Hogsheads and 1st fill Murça Tawny Port Finish
Independent Bottling
By Murray McDavid
Limited Édition 
Single Malt
Bottled in 2024
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured, Cask Strength
Peated around 37 ppm



Murray McDavid is an independent bottler that has been in business since 1994. Their The Art of Maturation range features some daring blends. Here, this Ledaig spent 13 years in 5 Bourbon Hogsheads, followed by 2 years in Tawny Port casks. This gives a total of 1,547 bottles. I'm not entirely sure that the juice is Cask Strength, only one sales website mentions it, but it's in accordance with the alcohol content.




Let's Taste It : 
Chimney fire, iodised freshness, almost velvety, black cherries and gooseberries. Perfectly integrated alcohol, damsons, cranberry tart, pastry cream, strawberry jam. On the palate, gooseberry and raspberry juice, peppery on the finish, tinder and walnut wood. It is syrupy and silky, honeyed and slightly herbaceous. The finish is close to perfection, with grilled sausages, notes of charcoal coated in meat juice, liquorice covered in treacle, fudge, figs and dried bananas.

In Short, 
It's a very good Ledaig, the peat and alcohol are perfectly integrated, and go very well with the Port. I gave it to a whisky lover who doesn't like peat and she thought it was excellent. Only Ledaig and Port Charlotte can produce such fine blends, despite the presence of a lot of peat. The price is a little high, but in line with the current market.
Score : 89









                                           To Be Listened While Sipping :
 
                                           Amenra - A Solitary Reign

Wednesday, 21 August 2024

Bunnahabhain 2009 Fèis Ile 2024 14 yo

 
 
 
58,7°
Distillery : Bunnahabhain - Islay
Bourbon Casks and Ruby Port Hogsheads Finish
Original Bottling 
Limited Edition 
Single Malt 
Bottled in 2024
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured, Cask Strength
Totally Unpeated
 
 
 
On the occasion of Fèis Ile 2024, the music and whisky festival held every year on Islay, the distillery has released no fewer than 4 limited editions. This one is the youngest, ‘only’ 14 years old. Distilled on 26 May 2009, the juice then lived in Bourbon casks until 17 November 2020, before venturing into Ruby Port Hogsheads, the sweetest. It is not stated how many bottles were produced.
 
 
 

Let's Taste It : 
Very velvety nose, prunes, figs, dark chocolate mousse. Fudge and treacle, varnished old wood. Red fruit salad in the background, a few citrus fruits, lime, orange marmalade. A hint of blackcurrant, honey and floral touches, melting liquorice. Chocolate and malt come together on the palate, with woody blueberries, overripe muscat grapes, a bit old, tomato and lingonberry soup, followed by a trail of salt and pepper, cumin, nutmeg, barbecue sauce. Very long, explosive finish, black pepper and cloves, fir needles, traces of eucalyptus, charcoal, caramel and liquorice, slight woody bitterness, heather, bark, dried raisins and apricots. Speculoos biscuit crumbs.
 
In Short, 
It's magnificent. Your mouth is full of blueberry tart. I shouldn't say so, but this is a real treat at a modest price. I'd like to thank my readers in advance for letting me buy the bottle before the last one is snapped up. Having said that, it's a very special profile actually, you have to love blueberries.
Score : 91
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                           To Be Listening While Sipping :
 
                                           Christopher James - Half Past Midnight

Tuesday, 20 August 2024

Holyrood Distillery Ambir

 
 
 
49;8°
Distillery : Holyrood Distillery - Lowlands
Ex-Bourbon and Oloroso Sherry Casks
Original bottling
Core Range 
Single Malt
Launched in 2024
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured
Totally Unpeated



The Holyrood distillery was born in 2019. It is located in the very heart of Edinburgh, close to the city centre, so it is easy to find. It produces gin, vodka, rum and whisky. After a first limited edition called Arrival, which was the first Single Malt produced in the city itself for nearly a hundred years, two expressions were born this year. This one is the more common, unpeated, and aged for 3 to 5 years in Bourbon and Oloroso Sherry casks. It aims to bring out the fruity character of the distillery. Ambir means ‘amber’ in Gaelic.






Let's Taste It : 
Malty hints, a red cherry, pearlescent with chocolate. Like the Mon Chéri brand. Gooseberries, raspberries, but still light. Creamy fudge, shortbread biscuits, buttered rusks, Swedish bread. A drizzle of caramelised vanilla. A few drops of lemon. On the palate, it's solid, with fairly strong vegetal notes, softened by molasses and melting chocolate. Pepper on the tip of the tongue, then an honest, relatively long finish, with orchard fruits, juicy pears, muscat grapes.

In Short, 
There are some qualities here, the palate and finish hold their own. On the other hand, I found the nose a little shy, the Oloroso Sherry not asserting itself enough for my taste, and the Bourbon struggling to bring out the fruit. I found it more vegetal than fruity. It's quite good nonetheless, given its very young age. A few more years will do it good. 
Score : 84









                                                    To Be Listened While Sipping : 
 
                                                     Codyr Fry - Better

Sunday, 18 August 2024

Ardbeg Spectacular

 
 
 
46°
Distillery : Ardbeg - Islay
Port Wine Casks and Ex-Bourbon Barrels
Original Bottling 
Limited Edition 
Single Malt 
Bottled in 2023
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured
Peated around 54 ppm
 
 
 
I've never heard of Ardbeg ageing in port wine casks before. This is surprising, because this distillery is fond of trying anything and everything, and their rivals Laphroaig have made a magnificent Brodir in Port casks. And so it was at the Feis Ile 2024 that this new innovation was revealed to the public, although the bottling had taken place 6 months earlier. Neither the age nor the number of bottles produced is known. I've read here and there that the juice is over 10 years old, but I really doubt it.
 
 
 

Let's Taste It : 
At first, it's very vegetal, candied angelica, fatty grass, then some lemon coulis, a drop of cherry juice, crushed raspberry, red plums, gooseberries, it's Port. Thickly smoked, but coated in cotton candy, toffee apple, barbecue sauce. The palate is less interesting, concentrated on tall grass and reeds, the peat is not very overpowering. Spices, pepper, cloves, lime. The finish is long and explosive, with liquorice sticks, cola and caramel, charcoal, damp and dark earth. 
 
In Short, 
It's a good product, I don't see why I should say otherwise. The nose is subtle and nuanced, oscillating between the influence of Port and Bourbon, which is interesting. On the palate, however, it's a little disappointing, probably too young, but it holds up. The finish is typical Ardbegian, powerful, explosive, full of tar and coal. All in all, I'd say it's not better than the Ten, and even the palate is not so harmonious. So it should the same price bracket. Maybe slightly more expensive, as it's a limited edition. Unfortunately it's double that.
Score : 87









                                           To Be Listened While Sipping :
 
                                           Panteïst - Be Here

Sunday, 11 August 2024

Sutherland 5 yo 2022

 
 
 
48,5°
Distillery : Dornoch, Clynelish, Brora - Highlands
Independent Bottling 
By Thompson Bros.
Limited Edition 
Blended Malt 
Bottled in 2022
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured
Almost Unpeated



The Sutherland distillery doesn't exist, it's a code name for Clynelish when you can't name it. Here, we're talking about Clynelish, but mainly Dornoch, and also a touch of Brora (only for 1% of the Blend, or so I was told). Three Highland distilleries, two highly prestigious, the other just emerging. The Dornoch is certainly only 5 years old, the Clynelish is certainly older, and the Brora must be. It's 5 years old, but it's not just 5 years old. The Dornoch distillery is owned by the Thompson brothers, so it's not entirely an independent bottling. Unfortunately, we don't know anything about the maturation process, but it must be mainly Bourbon casks. 590 bottles were released. Given the success of the first edition, a second edition was launched in 2023, and even a third in 2024. But this is the only one to celebrate the 20th anniversary of Whiskyfun, the famous website that comments on virtually every whisky released.  




Let's Taste It : 
Woodwax, lacquered parquet, yellow fruits and farmhouse fragrances, plums hidden in the hay. Rather liquid honey, a touch of iodine, even limestone and foam. Velvety oak, lemongrass, pineapple and green apples, dates and quinces, soft caramel. An ounce of smoke to embellish it all. The palate is silky and delicate, with wood and polish, lychee juice, rosewater, beeswax, and a few spices such as pepper, cumin and cloves. Long, oily finish, royal jelly, orgeat syrup, a few drops of lemon, hazelnuts.

In Short, 
It's interesting and original, a bit old school. The marriage between Clynelish and Dornoch is quite good, you can feel the youthful ardour of Dornoch, and the authentic, inimitable character of Clynelish. My heart tells me you can also feel the Brora, but my head says no. That said, it's good, but it's closer to sympathetic curiosity than earth-shattering novelty. I think the price is a bit high for what it is. It's very easy to drink though, and it's the kind of bottle you finish without realising it.
Score : 87








                                         
                                           To Be Listened While Sipping : 
 
                                           Public Service Broadcasting - the South Atlantic

Saturday, 10 August 2024

Kilkerran Heavily Peated Small Batch Batch N°10

 
 
 
57,8°
Distillery : Glengyle - Campbeltown
90% Bourbon and 10% Sherry Casks 
Original Bottling 
Limited Edition 
Single Malt 
Bottled in 2024
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured, Cask Strength
Peated around 84 ppm
 
 
 
Like every 6 months, the new Kilkerran Heavily Peated comes out, it's become a routine now. The maturation and peat content are the same as on the previous Batch, so there shouldn't be much change to the profile. We still don't know how many bottles are being produced.
 
 
 

Let's Taste It : 
Resiny peat, wood wax and peanut butter on toasted bread. Some fruits, quince and mirabelle plum, but light. A trail of iodine, salt and honey, hints of vanilla with the sea breeze. Airy cereals, wheat grains and barley. Almond with its pod. Soft and silky on the palate, candied lemon and mother-of-pearl, followed by spices, quite strong, cumin, pepper and cloves. Egg white. Long, fairly explosive finish, limestone, lychee, white fruits, grapes and pears, agave.
 
In Short, 
It's not the best in the range. Very similar to Batch no. 9, but just a little lighter in the mouth. If possible, I'd advise you to buy another Batch instead, but it is still attractive value for money.
Score : 87
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                            To Be Listened While Sipping :
 
                                           Psychlona - Let's Go

Friday, 9 August 2024

Ardmore 2010 100 Proof Edition #4 13 yo

 
 
 
57,1° (100° Proof)
Distillery : The Ardmore - Speyside
1st Fill Oloroso Sherry Butts
Independent Bottling 
By Signatory Vintage
Limited Edition 
Single Malt 
Bottled in 2023
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured
Peated around 12 ppm
 
 
 
I'm extending my exploration of the 100 Proof range with this Ardmore, distilled in 2010 and bottled 13 years later. It was released in January 2024, and a batch of 2,804 bottles invaded the spirits shops.
 
 
 

Let's Taste It : 
Light and warm peat, terracotta, walnuts and greengages, an ounce of iodine. Sanded and slightly waxed wood. The weather is windy, almost humid. Reeds, elderberries, gooseberries. Quite vegetal. Dates and applesauce. It's light on the palate, green tea, watercress soup, intense but friendly spices, not too violent, pepper, basil, cloves. Olive oil. The finish is long, explosive without being overpowering, well controlled. Chocolate chips, coffee beans, exotic wood, crumbly bark, a touch of charcoal and honey. Melting caramel.
 
In Short,
This is a fine Ardmore, and the finish in particular is a success. I found the nose a tad vegetal, without this being disturbing, on the contrary. The Sherry is not overpowering, leaving the distillate to its own devices. It's all very pleasant, and given the very attractive price, it's well worth buying. But it's almost sold out.
Score : 87
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                           To Be Listened While Sipping :
 
                                           Occasional Dreams  Fever Dream

Thursday, 8 August 2024

Line Up #26 : Just a Few Recent Kilchoman

12 July 2024. 
 
 
 
 
 
The Line Up Project :
The idea is simply to taste some of Kilchoman's recent expressions and compare them with older ones. This will give you an idea of where the distillery is at, after all, it's still young and has a long way to go. In the previous Line Up devoted to the distillery, I said that it did not yet have the same quality as the other Islay brands, that it lacked older expressions and a real regular range. Since then, a 16 year old has been released, which hasn't totally convinced me. I haven't included it in the Line Up, as I don't have it to hand, but I do have two other editions from this year. That's enough for a nice little tasting.





Thé Tasting :
Kilchoman Loch Gruinart : This one appeared in 2020, first exclusively in France and then worldwide. It's an interesting alternative to Machir Bay, of which I'm not a fan.
Beautiful mineral peat, typical of the distillery, barely hindered by the influence of Bourbon. It's airy and iodised. Very light on the palate, with only peat and a little pepper. Perhaps a few drops of honey. Nice finish, quite long but lacking explosiveness, quite fruity and also maritime. Score : 85





Kilchoman Sanaig : Launched as early as 2015, this is one of the distillery's flagship expressions. Its ageing in Sherry casks gives it a certain sweetness.
Deep sherry with charcoal and mother-of-pearl. Honey, leather, caramel. Quince jelly and peanut butter. Well-crafted, full palate, woody apricot, light spices. Amadou. Long but slightly flat finish, dried fruits, dates, raisins, soft caramel. Score : 85





Kichoman Loch Gorm 2018 : This one is reputed to be the best of this annual limited edition, which has been around since 2013. It's a successful marriage of Kilchoman peat and Sherry.
Fine, grainy smoke, coal nuggets, liquorice, velvety prunes, damp wood, toffee-topped hazelnut.
Very well done on the palate, but a little pale, soft caramel that melts under the tongue, marzipan, loukoum, filled dates, milk chocolate, perfectly integrated spices. Long, languorous finish, forest undergrowth, mushrooms, pine needles, dark chocolate, walnuts. Score : 88





Kilchoman Loch Gorm 2024 : The 2024 edition is the 12th of the Loch Gorm for which the distillery is famous.
Bewitching smoke, lightly burnt wood, dark Sherry, black grapes and red plums. Toffee and dried banana. Very velvety and woody palate, toffee, melting chocolate, measured spices. Quite explosive finish, charcoal, cola, heather earth. Score : 88





Kilchoman Batch Strength : A new entry in the regular range, this cask strength edition shows the staff's efforts to diversify and rekindle the flame of the early years when the fledgling distillery went viral.
The nose is still very green and vegetal, with tall, damp grass, sunburnt turf and steamy peat. Iodine and tide. We've got just the right marine fragrance. The surf. On the palate, it's not exactly what you'd expect, very slightly bitter wood, Guérande salt, virulent spices. The finish is a success, as violent as one could wish, with spices, cola and pine cones. Tobacco, salt, white fruits. Score: 87




What I gain from it
  • The regular range is as young and unaged as ever. The distillate is fine, vigorous and full of character, but lacks the finesse and subtlety to counterbalance the virulence of the peat. The new Batch Strength doesn't break the rule, and is even saturated with vegetal fragrances that don't match the distillery's usual profile.
 
 

  • The limited editions have this finesse and subtlety, almost too much so. But they are hard to find at a price that matches their quality.

 

  • There is little difference between the two Loch Gorm, although 6 years have passed from one to the other. This shows that the distillery is stagnating a little, if not regressing, as the 2018 edition is slightly higher than the 2024.




Conclusion
I'm beginning to wonder if there aren't a few problems with this distillery. The regular range is somewhat weak for an Islay, with unaged whiskies that have a good character, but lack complexity and depth. The limited editions are often really good, but the value for money is not there. 
 
 
 

 
All in all, there is very little really worthwhile from this distillery, whose potential is nonetheless enormous. The distillate is magnificent, but often too young. The ageing in Sherry casks is very well done, but then it lacks power. There's not much missing to bring it up to the level of its Islay brethren, but it just doesn't get there, is the step too high? 
 
 
 
 
 
It's been the status quo for several years now, and the distillery is going to have to step up to the plate, with a regular range featuring properly aged bottlings, advantageous limited editions and where the distillate really comes into its own. We'll be waiting.




Monday, 5 August 2024

Bruichladdich 1990 Valinch The Purest Whisky in Scotland 15 yo

 
 
 
55,5°
Distillery : Bruichladdich - Islay
Refill Bourbon Barrel
Original Bottling 
Limited Edition 
Single Cask 
Bottled in 2005
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured, Cask Strength
Totally Unpeated
 
 
 
The Valinch is the instrument used by professionals to take whisky samples from the casks. When Mark Reynier and Simon Coughlin reopened the distillery in 2001, the only way they could make a profit was to sell off the old stock. Over a million litres of whisky were waiting to be bottled. They started in 2002 by launching a series of limited editions under the name Valinch. This one was released in 2005, and takes its name from a scientific study which claimed that Bruichladdich whisky was the purest in Scotland. This is undoubtedly due to the water used, but above all to the stills in which the distillation takes place. This Valinch matured for 15 years and three months in a single Refill Bourbon Barrel, and 350 bottles were produced.
 
 
 

Let's Taste It : 
Semi-salted butter, a good layer on a slice of rye bread. Also peanuts, a dash of vanilla, a hint of iodine. Toasted cereals, corn, wheat, barley, puffed rice. Mirabelle plums. A few lemony whiffs. Well-balanced. Dry bark, with a bit of moss on top. Litchi. A little medicinal touch. On the palate, very liquid honey, silky, with just the right amount of pepper. White fruit and vanilla. Then it becomes woody, varnished wood. The finish is strong, very peppery, cumin, cloves, roots, damp earth, tinder, almonds with their pods. Nuts.
 
In Short, 
It's an old-school Bruichladdich. This is what Bruichladdich used to look like. And quite honestly, it hasn't changed much. So much the better. You can still find it if you look hard enough, or at auction - you'll have to pay a high price, of course - but die-hard fans of the distillery might find there something to their liking.
Score : 88
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                           To Be Listened While Sipping :
 
                                           Death Cab for Cutie - What Sarah Said

Sunday, 4 August 2024

Bruichladdich 1990 Cask Strength Collection La Maison du Whisky Exclusive Bottling 24 yo

 
 
 
56,5°
Distillery : Bruichladdich - Islay
Refill Sherry Butt
Independent Bottling 
By Signatory Vintage 
Limited Edition 
Single Cask 
Bottled in 2015
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured, Cask Strength
Totally Unpeated
 
 
 
Bruichladdich bottlings by Signatory, a company founded in 1988 by Andrew and Brian Symington, are numerous, but this one is special. Selected by La Maison du Whisky, it was specially prepared for Whisky Live Paris 2015, one of the biggest spirits events in the world. 506 bottles were distributed.
 
 
 

Let's Taste It : 
Beautiful fullness on the nose, which brings woody cereals, varnish and wax, and a fairly rich sherry with dried and pulpy fruits, grapes, quinces, plums of all kinds, banana. It becomes gourmet after a while, with apple crumble, pear compote and chocolate shavings. However, it is a little light on the palate, with hints of prune and nectarine, somewhat syrupy, spicy, pepper, cumin, dates and almonds. The finish is quite long, quite violent and peppery, wood liqueur, liquorice stick, chestnut cream. Amadou. A touch of caramel and cola.
 
In Short, 
This is not an exceptional Bruichladdich. It's just good and well-made, very pleasant to drink. The Sherry does not mask the personality of the distillery. Given the prices at that time, it was no problem to have a 24 year old that wasn't sublime. Today, a bottling of this type would be much more expensive, and buyers would expect a much higher quality. In any case, it is likely to be hard to find today, except perhaps at auction, where it will fetch an acceptable price.
Score : 88
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                           To Be Listened While Sipping :
 
                                           Father John Misty - I Guess Time Just Makes Fools of Us All