31 July 2025.
A bit of History :
Tobermory is the only distillery on the Isle of Mull in the Inner Hebrides. It is located in the small village of the same name, a village so typical and pretty that it was chosen as the setting for a famous children's series.
Founded in 1798 by local kelp merchant John Sinclair, the distillery was
one of the first to take out a distilling license in 1823. But at that time it was named Ledaig. Then John Sinclair closed the distillery in 1837 and tried to sell it, without success. It was not sold until 1876, and it took another two years for production to resume in 1878. This first closure lasted 41 years.
In 1887, the owners went bankrupt and the distillery changed hands again. Distillers Company Limited finally acquired it in 1916. But production ceased again in 1930 due to the fall in demand caused by the Prohibition. This second closure lasted 42 years, until 1972. During this period, the premises were used as a power station or as a canteen.
In 1972, a new start was made, a group bought the distillery and production began again, under the name of Ledaig. But this only lasted three years. Another bankruptcy and another closure, between 1975 and 1979. The distillery was bought again in 1979, but failed again, and closed between 1982 and 1989. The warehouses were then sold and converted into housing or used to store cheese. In all, the distillery remained closed for 96 of its 227 years of existence.
The miracle came in 1993, when Burn Stewart Distillers bought the distillery. Then, in 2013, this company was bought by Distell Group Ltd, a South African firm, which carried out a number of renovations, resulting in a further closure between 2017 and 2019. In its hands, Tobermory finally became a distillery to be reckoned with. In 2010, the alcohol content was increased to 46.3°, just like the other distilleries in the group, Bunnahabhain and Deanston. Cold filtration has also been abolished, which is excellent news.
In 1996, the Ledaig brand was revived to market the peated malt from the Tobermory distillery. It is made differently, with shorter fermentation, slower toasting and a different water ratio. Apart from the fact that it is peated whisky and Tobermory is not, it really isn't the same whisky. Today, the distillery produces about as much Ledaig as Tobermory.
The Line Up Concept :
I may be biased in this regard, as a peat fan, but it seems to me that today the distillery is much better known for its Ledaig brand than for the liquids it produces under its own name.
So, for several years now, I've been wondering what Tobermory is really worth as a label, not as a distillery.
Tobermory is the name of both the brand and the distillery, and that's saying something. With a longer fermentation time of over 60 hours, the distillate is of high quality. I don't think it's a waste of time to take an interest in what Tobermory does without peat.
What is Tobermory's profile? Are there any differences with Ledaig other than the absence of peat? Does the distillate have a distinctive character? To answer these questions, I've put together a selection of samples from both original and independent bottlings.
The Tasting :
Tobermory 12 yo : Launched in 2019, this is the only expression of the Core Range bearing the Tobermory name. It succeeds the Tobermory 10yo, which ceased production shortly before.
Rich, full-bodied nose, a little grassy, chamomile, green tea, chlorophyll, candied angelica. Slight hint of iodine. Velvety but still vegetal on the palate, with a long finish of reeds, rhubarb, a hint of exotic fruit, crushed chestnuts. Score: 86
Tobermory 18 yo 2016 : This is a limited edition released in 2016. While there is a Ledaig 18yo in the Core Range, there is no Tobermory 18yo.
Very light lemon, pulpy, crystalline iodine, seaweed, mint leaf, lime slice. Vanilla glaze. Meringue. Slightly vegetal palate, almond milk, lively spices, long, explosive finish, parsley, honeysuckle, kumquat, green olives. Score: 90
Ledaig Unpeated 1995 Hidden Spirits 25 yo : It's not Tobermory, it's Ledaig, but it's not peated. So the fermentation is shorter, the toasting is slower, it's not the same whisky. This is a curiosity from the Italian bottler Hidden Spirits.
The nose is very basic, vegetal, grassy, fresh, iodine, icing sugar, angelica, lime. Slightly cereal on the palate, malted barley, toasted wheat, light spices, mellow vanilla. Long, alkaline finish, vine leaf, ginger, nutmeg, cola nut. Score: 88
Tobermory 1996 East Village Whisky 25 yo : East Village Whisky Co. is a little-known but respected German bottler. This is an opportunity to discover a real 25-year-old Tobermory, aged in a Bourbon Hogshead.
The nose is very well balanced, with woody lemon and the recognisable character of the distillery, liquid honey, bread spread with semi-salted butter, soft cereals and a very discreet iodine. The palate is also honeyed, with just the right amount of lemon, mirabelle plums and reines-claudes. Very long, well-crafted finish, liquorice stick, walnuts and cola, papaya. Score: 89
Tobermory 2008 A Single Cask Collection : Coasts & Shores 16 yo : This is a limited edition launched by Berry Bros. & Rudd, aged 16 years in a Sherry cask.
The Sherry is powerful and very fruity, raspberries, wild strawberries, exotic woods, redcurrants, pomegranate seeds, blackberries and blackcurrants. Very rich on the palate, once again a deluge of red fruit, dried fruit, figs, dates and intense spices. Long finish, earth and charcoal, chocolate, coffee beans, cake batter. Score: 88
Tobermory The Cooper's Choice Sherry Bomb : No age, but a rather high alcohol content, and a promising Sherry intensity.
The Sherry is deeper, darker, damp exotic wood, red fruit jam, pastry cream. Quite indulgent on the palate, fruit tart, candied cherries, rose liqueur, quite strong spices, long, explosive finish, more jam, stuffed figs, melting chocolate, with bits of walnut. Score : 88
What I gain from it :
You can recognise the effects of the long fermentation, with a honeyed, oily distillate that is fairly rich and consistent, fruity and floral. There are hints of almond, liquorice and sometimes exotic fruit.
But the environment also plays its part. It's an island distillery, so there are traces of iodine and various minerals. You can smell the rock, the sea air. That gives it breadth and character. In that respect, it's close to Bunnahabhain.
But what I find most interesting is this herbaceous, planty edge. It's not farmy like Springbank, or like a vegetable garden such as some Speyside distilleries, it's really green, reminiscent of angelica, tall grass, reeds and bamboo. It's a very special touch, which I can't find in any other distillery.
With this profile, it seems to me that ageing in Bourbon casks is preferable. It enhances the floral notes, and even the iodine. And it goes quite well with the vegetal character. On the contrary, I've noticed that many limited editions are finished and even matured quite boldly in wine or Sherry casks. It's not so often that Tobermory presents itself with a straightforward maturation.
Conclusion :
It seems to me that Tobermory is an interesting distillery, even without peat, and that it is not appreciated for its true worth. It really has its own identity, and rare qualities. Incidentally, just a few days after I made this Line Up, I received a sample of this Tobermory 1994 Alambic Classique 30 yo , and it's a real doozy. I thought I should mention it here, because it's probably the best Tobermory I'll taste for a long time. Just goes to show that exceptional quality is very possible with Tobermory.
So Tobermory doesn't need peat to exist, but Ledaig peat is obviously a plus. The problem I would raise is that the finish is sometimes surprising and not very attractive, particularly in red wine or Madeira casks. I'm not sure that this is the best option for this distillate. I'd recommend a Refill Sherry or a 1st Fill Bourbon Barrel. But who am I to decide? Apparently the distillery's fans welcome these bold finishes, so much the better if everyone is happy with them.
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