24 Décembre 2023.
The Line Up Concept :
According to the Scotch Whisky Association, there are five whisky regions in Scotland: the Highlands, Speyside, the Lowlands, Islay and Campbeltown. This is the official version, but it dates from a time when there were around twenty distilleries in Campbeltown, and only 5 in the islands outside Islay. Today, the ratio has been reversed, there are only 3 distilleries left in Campbeltown, and now 11 distilleries have bottled at least one whisky in the islands, not counting Islay, which has 9. 11 distilleries is starting to sound like an interesting number. Couldn't we deduce from this that the islands represent a region on their own? That's what several sales sites are already doing, and what I've been doing myself since I started this blog. Why not, but an official whisky region must have its own identity. Campbeltown only has 3 distilleries, but they are easily recognisable and have their own identity, as do all the official whisky regions. Do the islands have a specific profile, particular characteristics, that would give them an identity? If so, what would these characteristics be? This is the question I asked myself as I began this tasting, which brings together 10 of the 11 distilleries listed on the islands, and 11 brands, since the Tobermory distillery also has the Ledaig brand.
Here are the 11 distilleries I know: Aibhann Dearg on the Isle of Lewis, Highland Park and Scapa on the main island of Orkney, Talisker and Torabhaig on Skye, Tobermory on Mull, Isle of Arran and Lagg on the Isle of Arran, Isle of Raasay, Isle of Harris, and Isle of Jura on the islands of the same name. Out of these 11 distilleries, 6 are less than 30 years old, and 4 are less than 10 years old. If the islands are a region, then it's an emerging region. There have probably never been so many distilleries in these parts.
What brings all these distilleries together? What makes them identifiable as coming from one region and not another? To find this out, I've focused on basic bottlings, so that we don't end up with very elaborate whiskies, but with what makes up the base of a distillery, its benchmark. What's more, with the very young distilleries, there is nothing but 3 or 4 year old whiskies.
For Aibhann Dearg, it's impossible to get access to their juice, as it's not distributed internationally (but rumour has it that it's of poor quality). I have a bottle of all the other distilleries, and if I taste them all in a row, I'm better able to find their guidelines and common points.
The Tasting :
Scapa The Orcadian Skiren Batch SK09 : Founded in 1885, the Scapa distillery was mothballed in 1994, then revived in 2005 when it was bought by Pernod Ricard. But in 2015, the owners decided to market only two expressions, unaged and reduced to a minimum, including this one.
The nose is very light, a little gravelly. Then it becomes floral. The palate is more expressive, malty and vanilla-flavoured. Light spices, a touch of bitterness, a pleasant finish, salt and lemon zest. Score : 82
The nose is very light, a little gravelly. Then it becomes floral. The palate is more expressive, malty and vanilla-flavoured. Light spices, a touch of bitterness, a pleasant finish, salt and lemon zest. Score : 82
Isle of Harris The Hearach Batch 5 : Opened in 2015, Isle of Harris is one of the newer distilleries. They are famous for their gin, and released their first single malt last year, in 2023.
It's salty and honeyed, cereal-like. But above all, it's light. A hint of vanilla, white fruits. The palate is silky, with liquid honey, hazelnuts, a touch of sherry and warm spices. Long, successful finish, spices and earth. Score : 86
It's salty and honeyed, cereal-like. But above all, it's light. A hint of vanilla, white fruits. The palate is silky, with liquid honey, hazelnuts, a touch of sherry and warm spices. Long, successful finish, spices and earth. Score : 86
The Arran Malt 14 yo : Isle of Arran was created in 1995, so although it's a recent development, it's now well established. The expression I chose has unfortunately been discontinued in 2019.
Fruity, airy nose. Plums, pears, apricots, quinces. A little herbaceous too, rustic. Some almonds. A bit light on the palate, but suave, with chestnut cream and fine spices. Long, well-crafted finish, humus, vanilla, chestnuts, damp earth. Score : 86
Fruity, airy nose. Plums, pears, apricots, quinces. A little herbaceous too, rustic. Some almonds. A bit light on the palate, but suave, with chestnut cream and fine spices. Long, well-crafted finish, humus, vanilla, chestnuts, damp earth. Score : 86
Tobermory 12 yo : The distillery now known as Tobermory is the oldest on the islands, dating back to 1798. Located on the Isle of Mull, it has two brands, one producing peated whisky, the other unpeated. This expression, launched in 2019, is the most representative of the unpeated brand.
The attack is more straightforward, iodised and slightly camphorated. Floral and herbaceous. Well-balanced on the palate, with caramel, walnuts, quinces, a pinch of salt and strong spices. Fierce but not very long finish, a drop of tar, wood and cinnamon. Score : 86
The attack is more straightforward, iodised and slightly camphorated. Floral and herbaceous. Well-balanced on the palate, with caramel, walnuts, quinces, a pinch of salt and strong spices. Fierce but not very long finish, a drop of tar, wood and cinnamon. Score : 86
Highland Park 12 yo Viking Honour : It is difficult to establish the date of birth of this distillery, which obtained its licence in 1826, but it is certain that it existed illegally before that. It is thought to have been founded in 1798. This is the brand's most popular expression.
Liquid honey and iodine, a fine blend. White grape and caramel, heather. Creamy vanilla, hint of peat. Light palate; a vague note of honey and vanilla, pastry cream. Fairly long finish, nutmeg. Score : 84
Liquid honey and iodine, a fine blend. White grape and caramel, heather. Creamy vanilla, hint of peat. Light palate; a vague note of honey and vanilla, pastry cream. Fairly long finish, nutmeg. Score : 84
Talisker 10 yo :This distillery is undoubtedly the best known in the area, and this expression, which has been around for over 40 years, is emblematic.
A ladleful of coarse sea salt, with honey in the background. Quite strong peat. The palate is a little clear, salty and vanilla-flavoured. The finish is long, peppery, but also salty. Oysters and scallops. Very long and explosive. Score : 86
A ladleful of coarse sea salt, with honey in the background. Quite strong peat. The palate is a little clear, salty and vanilla-flavoured. The finish is long, peppery, but also salty. Oysters and scallops. Very long and explosive. Score : 86
Jura Superstition : The Isle of Jura distillery was licensed in 1831, but has apparently been in existence since 1810. It generally produces an unpeated whisky, but I have chosen one of its two peated expressions to represent it, as it is the oldest, appearing in 2002.
Light, elegant smoky peat, with soft toffee, quince purée and prunes. Light on the palate, dried apricots, ashes, fairly strong spices. Correct finish, oily, cola, vergeoise, hot chestnuts. Score : 84
Light, elegant smoky peat, with soft toffee, quince purée and prunes. Light on the palate, dried apricots, ashes, fairly strong spices. Correct finish, oily, cola, vergeoise, hot chestnuts. Score : 84
Isle of Raasay Lightly Peated R-01 3 yo : Another very recent distillery, founded in 2017. The expressions are varied, and this is one of the first to be released in 2021.
Similar to Talisker, the nose is salty and iodised, but softer and better tamed. Sea peat, yellow fruit and vanilla. Light palate, salt and limestone, timid spices. Long finish, full of character and well crafted. Score : 85
Similar to Talisker, the nose is salty and iodised, but softer and better tamed. Sea peat, yellow fruit and vanilla. Light palate, salt and limestone, timid spices. Long finish, full of character and well crafted. Score : 85
Isle of Raasay distillery
Torabhaig 2017 The Legacy Series The Inaugural Release 3 yo : Also founded in 2017, this distillery released its first expression in 2021, and it's this one. Others have followed since.
Initially very vanilla-flavoured, the nose then becomes more costal, the peat is milky, with iodine, sea breeze and seaweed. The palate is light, with the influence of bourbon and fairly strong spices. It's honeyed. The finish is nice and long, with vanilla and pastry cream. Score : 85
Initially very vanilla-flavoured, the nose then becomes more costal, the peat is milky, with iodine, sea breeze and seaweed. The palate is light, with the influence of bourbon and fairly strong spices. It's honeyed. The finish is nice and long, with vanilla and pastry cream. Score : 85
Ledaig 10 yo : This is the brand name for the peaty bottlings from the Tobermory distillery. This expression, which dates back to 2010, is very popular.
Dirty nose, very peaty, sharp iodine, tar, and at the same time it's quite fine. Melted plastic, limestone, pinch of salt. Enticing smoke, motor oil. Well malted and vanilla-flavoured palate, with a thick layer of peat. Spices in harmony. Long, perfect finish, gas oil, but also spices, icing sugar, cloves, soft caramel. Coffee and toffee. Score : 87
Dirty nose, very peaty, sharp iodine, tar, and at the same time it's quite fine. Melted plastic, limestone, pinch of salt. Enticing smoke, motor oil. Well malted and vanilla-flavoured palate, with a thick layer of peat. Spices in harmony. Long, perfect finish, gas oil, but also spices, icing sugar, cloves, soft caramel. Coffee and toffee. Score : 87
Lagg distillery on the Isle of Arran
Lagg Corriecravie Edition 3 yo : The owners of Isle of Arran launched this 2nd distillery in 2019., on the same island This expression was finished in Sherry casks and released in 2023.
Very well blended Sherry, crumble, brown sugar, red fruits. Touches of iodine. Charred roundness, some meaty hints. Subtle smokiness. Silky on the palate, heavy with red fruits and lots of peat. Long, spicy finish, chocolate, coffee, blackcurrants and blackberries, damp earth. Heather. Score : 88
Very well blended Sherry, crumble, brown sugar, red fruits. Touches of iodine. Charred roundness, some meaty hints. Subtle smokiness. Silky on the palate, heavy with red fruits and lots of peat. Long, spicy finish, chocolate, coffee, blackcurrants and blackberries, damp earth. Heather. Score : 88
What I gain from it :
- The whiskies of the islands are quite varied, ranging from Arran, which is light, fruity and floral, to Lagg, a 50 ppm peat monster. This is a transitional region between the Highlands and Islay, with a profile that strikes a balance between airy fruit and peat.
- However, there are also markers specific to the islands: this is a region where whiskies are iodised, salty and even mineral. Nevertheless, the fruit is always present and creates a fine balance with this costal profile. Islay is also costal, which is normal, it's an island too, but the peat is more present there, and none of its distilleries are lightly peated, whereas in the islands this is the case for the majority.
- I've already said that the islands are an emerging region, or a reborn one, because most of the distilleries are young. They are promising, but still far from reaching their full potential. But also, three ancient distilleries are still under-exploited. Highland Park, Isle of Jura and especially Scapa are marketing bottlings that are too shy, in which their island whisky nature is hidden. For Highland Park, this is mainly due to the fact that the whisky is chill-filtered, a practice now obsolete and abandoned by many good Scottish distilleries. But for Isle of Jura and Scapa, I can assure you that the independent bottlings are far better than the original ones. It makes me think that for a long time, island distilleries have tried to pass themselves off as Highland whiskies, by repressing their nature. The result is a juice that is flawed because it doesn't embrace itself. It's time for these distilleries to make a revolution and show us what they're capable of. Isle of Jura already renewed its range in 2018, and it was much better, but it's still not good enough in my humble opinion.
Conclusion :
I sincerely believe that the islands are a region of their own. They were officially so, it seems, in the distant past, in the 19th century, but this status was subsequently taken away from them. It's time to give them their chance again. This is a region with a distinctive identity, with whiskies that are salty and iodised, in a word, costal, but more nuanced than the radical whiskies of Islay. With the exception of Lagg and Ledaig, which could very well be likened to Islay. As far as I'm concerned, Isle of Arran is the only distillery that doesn't have these costal characteristics, all the others do, even if it's sometimes very discreet. It's nevertheless the mark of a beautiful homogeneity, stronger than in the Highlands or Speyside.
However, it has to be said that the islands are still very much a region in process of development. Most of the distilleries are very young, and even among the older ones, there is work to be done to release the true nature of the distillate.
To be honest, it's a region whose potential is still barely glimpsed. With many of the qualities that have made Islay such a success, but presented in a less divisive way. With Islay, you either love it or hate it; the products are so full of character that you're driven to an extreme reaction. With island whiskies, consensus is possible. These whiskies can be enjoyed by fans of Speyside and Islay alike.
It will take at least another ten years for the young distilleries to reach maturity. By then, other distilleries may have launched their first whisky. Deerness, a distillery that produces gin and vodka, has announced the expansion of their site to produce whisky in 2023. They have claimed to be the first new whiksy distillery in 138 years on the Orkney archipelago, but they may well be beaten to the punch. Kimbland, founded in 2020, announced the same year that their first whisky distillation would take place within weeks. But perhaps the fastest will be The Orkney Distillery, who have announced that they have distilled their first whisky in March 2024. Another distillery, Isle of Tiree, is preparing to release its first single malt whisky in January 2025. We talk a lot about the rise of Islay, but the rise of the islands is even more impressive.
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