Wednesday, 20 September 2023

Mannochmore 2009 House of McCallum Vintage 13 yo

 
 
 
51,5°
Distillery : Mannochmore - Speyside
Graves Wine Finish
Independent Bottling 
By House of McCallum 
Limited Edition 
Single Malt 
Bottled in 2022
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured
Totally Unpeated
 
 
 
Another bottling with an original finish from House of McCallum, a trading company whose director, Anthony McCallum, likes to experiment. However, there are still no details about the first maturation, although we're expecting an unsurprising Bourbon barrel. 781 bottles were produced, it seems that this is not a Cask Strength.
 
 
 

Let's Taste It : 
The nose is more reserved, but deeper, fleshy, tree bark, earth and honeysuckle, lingonberries, muscat grapes, honey nuts, lemon zest. Cereals in the background. On the palate, it's foresty, heather, ferns, but also red fruits, blackberries and blueberries, but without excess. Discreet spices, paprika and nutmeg add depth. The finish is long and peachy, with mellow chestnuts, toasted wheat, damp black earth, bushes, cola and marzipan. 
 
In Short, 
Quite austere, despite lovely red fruits. At the same time, it has a certain depth. Interesting, original on the whole, with a fine finish, but the price goes too far.
Score : 87
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                           To Be Listened While Sipping :
                                           José Feliciano- The Thrill is Gone

Tuesday, 19 September 2023

Dailuaine 2009 House of McCallum Vintage 13 yo

 
 
 
46,5°
Distillery : Dailuaine - Speyside
Pomerol Wine Finish
Independent Bottling 
By House of McCallum
Limited Edition 
SingleMalt
Bottled in 2022
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured
Totally Unpeated
 
 
 
Since 2018, Anthony McCallum has been creating ever more daring bottlings within the brand he created. Here, in The Vintage Collection range, under The Auld Alliance label, this 13-year-old Dailuaine finished in organic Pomerol casks. As for the first maturation, that remains a mystery, but a classic Bourbon barrels are very likely. 1010 bottles are on sale, it is a blending from three caskd, it seeems.
 
 
 

Let's Taste It : 
A sweet and soft wine, with a fine balance, cherries, muscat grapes that crunch under the tongue, blueberries and lingonberries but without excess. It is oily, woody, with a touch of honey and mother-of-pearl. Full and effective on the palate, between lychee and raspberry jelly, the spices are measured, not too strong. A few cashew nuts. Sufficiently long finish, earth and chocolate, orange peel, vegetal notes, moss and lichen, before ending on angelica.
 
In Short, 
It's fine, pleasant and well-balanced, not excessive like some wine barrel finishes. However, the price is outrageous. It's a nice product, but it's reduced, after all.
Score : 87
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                           To Be Listened While Sipping :
 
                                           The Band - The Weight

Monday, 18 September 2023

Glengoyne 15 yo

 
 
 
43°
Distillery : Glengoyne - Highlands
1st Fill and 2nd Fill Sherry, 1st Fill Bourbon Casks
Original Bottling
Core Range 
Single Malt 
Launched in 2022
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured
Totally Unpeated
 
 
 
There was a 15 year old at Glengoyne between 2012 and 2018 or so, but it seems the recipe was different. This one has a similar formula to the 18 year old, just three years less maturation.
 
 
 
 
Let's Taste It : 
Creamy, crème caramel and chestnut cream, accompanied by a lovely woodiness and a variety of red fruits. Very appealing. Wood varnish, a hint of charcoal, blackberries, blackcurrants. On the palate, it's almost earthy, foresty, humus, bark, oak leaves, red plums and mellowed spices, paprika, cinnamon. Peach core. Herbaceous finish, fairly long, but lacks explosiveness. A touch of chocolate milk, blueberries and nutmeg, acorn, cola. 

In Short, 
More woody and foresty than the rest of the range, it brings its own personality and that's interesting. I don't think it's good value for money, so why not take the 18 year instead?
Note : 86









                                           To Be Listened While Sipping :
 
                                           Gary B.B. Coleman - The Sky is Crying

Saturday, 16 September 2023

Caol Ila 1981 Cadenhead's Whisky Shop 40 yo



 
52,2°
Distillery : Caol Ila - Islay
Independent Bottling 
By William Cadenhead Limited 
Limited Edition 
Single Cask 
Bottled in 2022
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured, Cask Strength
Peated around 35 ppm
 
 
 
40-year-old Caol Ila's are hard to find. This one was produced in a very limited edition of 114 bottles, and sold exclusively at the Cadenhead shop in London, which also adorns the label on the bottle. It's impossible to know which cask was used, but I can guess that it was a Sherry cask. The Cadenhead shops in Vienna, Berlin, Odense and Milan, as well as all the others that aren't in the UK (in case I've forgotten any), are closing or have already closed because of the huge taxes imposed as a result of Brexit. That's why all recent releases from Cadenhead's Whisky Shop range replicate UK shops only.
 
 
 

Let's Taste It : 
Spicy lacquered wood. Beeswax. Smoke, very vague, yet very present. Armenian paper, shoe polish. A drop of soot. Bewitching balance. Exotic fruits, guava, kumquat, maracuja. On the palate, it's on the same level. Silky, complex. But the spices are volcanic. Cumin, black pepper. Cloves. The finish is calm by comparison, but very long. It develops gradually. Coal, cola, dried fruits. Stuffed dates, banana, paprika. Nutmeg, truffles. Rich and damp earth. 
 
In Short, 
Superbly balanced, but not an explosion of flavours. It's very refined, very well done, the Caol Ila profile is clearly recognisable, with smoke, which is surprising at this age. It's wonderful, and yet I didn't really love it, although I was very impressed. As for the price, I imagine it's the market rate, when absurdity rules.
Score : 91 









                                           To Be Listened While Sipping : 
 
                                           NoSo - Panama

Monday, 21 August 2023

Port Askaig 1983 34 yo

 
 
 
49,7°
Distillery Officially Unknown - Islay
Ex-Bourbon Hogshead
Independent Bottling 
By Elixir Distillers 
Limited Edition 
Single Cask 
Bottled in 2018
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured, Cask Strength
 
 
 
The oldest Port Askaig is 45 years old, but there are also a 30 year old, a 33 year old and this 34 year old, which caused a stir when it was released, being judged particularly good by the connoisseurs. Issued in 180 bottles, it went on sale in February 2019.
 
 
 

Let's Taste It : 
The tide rises on an exotic beach. Caramelised sand, liquorous fruits, perfectly integrated iodine. Wonderful balance. Salt crystals. Fermented cherries. Fresh fig pulp. Quite smoky for its age, laden with sooty granules. Continues on the palate, fig and dried banana, hint of cherry, peat in the background, light but not insignificant spices, cumin, pepper. Chestnut purée. Traces of bitterness. The finish is thunderous. Very long, spicy, woody, with hints of tinder, dark chocolate, coffee beans and cloves.

In Short, 
I can confirm that this is Caol Ila. From the nose to the finish, there's a little syrupy note that I really liked. It's a whisky that has a certain thickness, and of course a great complexity. The nose and finish are superb. On the palate, it's just very well done. A masterpiece nonetheless. The price is chilling.
Score : 91









                                           To Be Listened While Sipping :
  
                                           Donny Hathaway - The Ghetto

Tuesday, 15 August 2023

Caol Ila 1982 The Cooper's Choice 30 yo

 
 
 
52°
Distillery : Caol Ila - Islay 
Hogshead
Independent Bottling
By The Vintage Malt Whisky Co. Ltd
Limited Edition 
Single Cask 
Bottled in 2013
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured, Cask Strength
Peated around 35 ppm
 
 
 
The Vintage Malt Whisky Co. was founded in 1992 and is best known for the Finlaggan brand. And when you know that Finlaggan is Caol Ila (although you're not supposed to), you can deduce that they have very strong links with this distillery. Which explains why this cask from 1982 is in their hands. In fact, they have a good fifteen 1982 Caol Ila casks. But this one is special. Bottled in 2013 especially for The Whisky Fair in Limburg, Germany, only 275 bottles were made, which are now being snapped up at auction.
 
 
 

Let's Taste It : 
At the very beginning of the nose, camphor and ether, which sometimes happens with older bottlings. Behind, pulpy, ripe yellow fruits, plum, banana. With the addition of water, the iodine begins to expand, and a fine balance is achieved, though it remains delicate overall. Then comes the smoke, ashy and grainy. Mineral notes of slate and silica. Chocolatey earth. Black coffee in the percolator. Moist humidity, undergrowth. Liquoriced soot. Ginger, angelica. Delicious harmony. On the palate, the fruits come back, quince and fermented cherries, fairly strong spices, cumin, cloves, pepper, turmeric. Hints of marshy liquorice. Very long finish, liquorice and fuel oil, pepper sweets, paprika, malt, rye, some cereals. Dry earth. Aubergine juice. Slight woody bitterness.
 
In Short, 
It took a good 40 minutes for the nose to take hold, and water had to be added, but it is truly outstanding. The rest is on the same level, it's a fantastic bottling, quite fruity, which manages to effectively blend iodine and peat with the patina of age, a sweetness and a complexity second to none. I'd recommend buying it for those who can afford it, but reserve it for die-hard fans, as the value for money is nowhere near there.
Score : 90
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                           To Be Listened While Sipping :
 
                                           Dire Straits - Telegraph Road

Tuesday, 8 August 2023

Caol Ila 1982 The Ultimate Rare Reserve 30 yo

 
 
 
51,6°
Distillery : Caol Ila - Islay
Hogshead
Independent Bottling 
By Van Wees
Limited Edition 
Single Cask 
Bottled in 2013
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured, Cask Strength
Peated around 35 ppm
 
 
 
In 2013, after 19 years in business, The Ultimate range reached its 500th bottling. What an achievement! That's more than 25 per year. To celebrate in style, they found a Caol Ila from 1982, the hallowed year of Caol Ila, reputed to be one of their best vintages. A release of 200 copies, quickly sold out, became a legend.
 
 
 

Let's Taste It : 
Yellow plum, ethereal iodine, banana. Salt lace and calcareous peat. Deep earth. Almond paste, crushed chestnuts. Sea breeze. Fig pulp. Evanescent mineral notes, slate and quartz. The palate, on the other hand, is very fruity, with a good amount of peat in the background, followed by tasty spices, paprika, cumin and turmeric. Really pleasant. Very long finish, quite vigorous but not really violent, vanilla juice, dates, hints of cranberries. Walnut crumbs. Fruit paste with raisins.
 
In Short, 
Some say it's not the best 1982 Caol Ila. But it's so good anyway! Chiselled with salt and very fine peat on the nose, lots of fruit on the palate, and a never-ending finish. Do you want to know where you can still find it? The answer is no.
Score : 90
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                           To Be Listened While Sipping :
 
                                           Black Caedinal - I'm Ready

Thursday, 3 August 2023

Kilchoman Loch Gruinart

 
 
 
46°
Distillery : Kilchoman - Islay
American Bourbon, European Oloroso and Pedro Ximénez Sherry Casks
Original Bottling 
Core Range 
Single Malt 
Launched in 2020
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured
Peated around 50 ppm 



In November 2020, a rumour started circulating. Some Kilchoman could be found in French supermarkets at a very attractive price. It was this new product, this Loch Gruinart, and enthusiasts flocked to these places of mass consumption. I did the same, but the ones near home weren't so well stocked. Finally, I got the chance to taste it today, as I was given a sample. Non aged, with few details about the maturation process, this Loch Gruinart doesn't look much different from Machir Bay or Sanaig, except that it's slightly younger, apparently. Loch Gruinart is a long delta in the north of Islay, and its entrance is closer to Bunnahabhain than Kilchoman, as the delta begins between Ardnave Point and Gortantaoid Point. It seems that it is still exclusively reserved for French supermarkets, but it's been almost three years now, so you can't really call it a limited edition.




Let's Taste It : 
Airy, mineral, calcareous iodine. Wet dog. animal, herbaceous peat. Buffalo grass. Some yellow fruits, plums and bananas. Earthy hints. Pebbles in the river. The peat becomes more balanced, revealing creamy vanilla. Really light on the palate, a bit lemony, some spices, cumin and pepper, rocky undertones. Quite long and very effective finish, sandy, the peat comes through, whiffs of iodine, cola, very slight bitterness. Mint and coconut ice cream with chocolate chips.
 
In Short, 
Indeed, it's quite young, and that's its main flaw, as it's very light on the palate. On the other hand, the nose and finish are quite good, and for that I find it slightly superior to Machir Bay. I'm not really sure that I'll ever buy one, but perhaps I will on occasion.
Score : 85
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                           To Be Listened While Sipping :
 
                                           Senza Benza - The Lady from the Shop