Sunday 17 July 2022

Port Charlotte 2003 Hidden Spirits 14 yo

 
 
 
55,5°
Distillery : Bruichladdich - Islay
2nd Fill Ex-Oloroso Sherry Hogshead
Independent Bottling 
By Hidden Spirits 
Limited Edition 
Single Cask 
Bottled in 2017
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured, Cask Strength
Peated around 40 ppm
 
 
 
Hidden Spirits is an independent Italian bottler founded in 2013 by Andrea Ferrari. Already following in the footsteps of its illustrious elders, Samaroli and Sestante, its reputation has already been made thanks to a few standout bottlings. This edition has also been the talk of the town. It is a Port Charlotte aged in a single second-fill Oloroso cask, and bottled at the age of 14 years and 13 days. 316 bottles went on sale.
 
 
 
 
Let's Taste It : 
Ripe quinces, apricot loukoum, icing sugar, and immediately behind it thick peat, greasy fertile earth, oozing coal, fuel oil, motor oil. But it's as if it's candied, as if the anthracite was topped with a dab of chestnut cream. Chocolate ganache. Diffused smoke. With the addition of water, it becomes fruitier, but also more ashen. Rich, still oily, slightly alcoholic. Loamy earth, fleshy mud. The Oloroso finally starts to become more precise, caramel and leather, orange jam, cashew nuts. But the rustic peat is still there, make no mistake about it. On the palate, it's oily, the fruits become riper, like applesauce, with chunks inside. And lumps of sugar. Then light spices, cinnamon, paprika, curry, before a big bubble of peat is formed, and finally explodes on the palate, spurting gas oil, scaly water. You sink into the earth, the coal, the petrol. Long, sparkling finish, cola at first, then sinking into sand, pine needles, an ounce of eucalyptus, beautiful breadth, hazelnuts, toast, meat sauce. Maple syrup, pancakes.
 
In Short, 
It was a superb moment, and I wonder if I'm not going to raise my score again. I've never experienced such a perfect marriage between the violent, politically incorrect flavours of peat and the fruity, sweet plenitude of Oloroso. As it is a second fill cask, the Sherry is not at all striking, giving way to the distillate, which is at its best here. I won't say any more, just that the bottle is still available in certain specialist shops in Italy, or on auction sites from time to time. The price is a bit borderline, but as far as I'm concerned, it's the best I've tasted from Port Charlotte, and it easily rivals the best Octomore, so don't hesitate.
Score : 91
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                          To Be Listened Whils Sipping  :
  
                                          The Murder Capital - Green and Blue

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