2 February 2024.
The Line Up Concept :
Ardbeg is obviously a much-talked-about distillery, and the source of much debate. It is a divisive distillery. Even more than its staggering peat content, it's its marketing strategy that's the talk of the town. By increasing the number of limited bottlings, they're making both friends and enemies. To clear up the debate, I decided to try a tasting of Ardbeg's Core Range in its entirety. It may be said that limited bottlings are overrated in terms of quality, that they are overpriced, that the design of their labels is sometimes embarrassing... But what about their Core Range?
For me, the quality of a distillery is measured above all by its Core Range. Limited bottlings come and go, some will be disappointing, others will be excellent, that's part of the game. The Core Range must remain stable and constant over the years. It is the distillery's showcase, and it must defend its colours.
Ardbeg's current Core Range first appeared in the 2000s, first with the Ten, then with the Uigeadail. The Corryvreckan appeared a few years later, initially as a limited edition before being retained permanently. Then it took almost ten years for a new entry, the An Oa, and finally the Wee Beastie 4 years ago. That makes a total of 5 expressions and a decent Core Range, although it is unfortunate that there are so few aged expressions. Only the Ten and the Wee Beastie are aged, the others are NAS, which does not inspire confidence, especially as the Wee Beastie is very young. It is said that the quality of Corryvreckan and especially Uigeadail has declined over time, and it is very possible to use younger and younger casks, since no age is guaranteed on the bottle. But this is also the distillery's selling point, blending very young and powerful juices with older ones, so as to have the qualities of youth and age at the same time. All right, but the blending has to be done in the right proportions.
That's what we're going to find out with this tasting : Is Ardbeg's Core Range still as good as ever? What's so special about it? Can it still put everyone on the same wavelength, and dispel the rather tiresome controversy surrounding limited editions? By questioning the quality of its Core Range, we are always questioning the real value of a distillery.
The Tasting :
Ardbeg An Oa :Released in 2017, this one has been triple matured and finished in French oak. It appears to be a friendlier version of Ardbeg, one that makes it easier to discover the distillery.
You can immediately smell the powerful, vegetal, earthy peat, softened by hints of Bourbon, vanilla and white plum. Pepper, mirabelle, ginger. The palate is a little light but pleasant, with a fairly long, virile finish of tobacco, nutmeg and chocolate. Score : 86
Ardbeg Wee Beastie 5 yo : This is the latest addition to the Core Range, which appeared in the middle of confinement in 2020. It gives pride of place to Sherry Oloroso.
It's as meaty as you could wish for, with fried bacon and greasy ham. Behind, a lovely fullness of salt and iodine. Cranberry jam and paprika. Thick, herbaceous peat. Nice complexity, with coffee and chocolate toffee. On the palate, it's light, vegetal, beautiful peat and spices, long and sparkling finish, cola, genoise, sesame, tobacco, a touch of coal and tar. Score : 86
Ardbeg Ten 10 yo :This entry marks the rebirth of the distillery. Closed between 1981 and 1989, it operated in slow motion until 1998, and two years later it was back in the limelight with this Ten. The ageing process is classic, in Bourbon casks.
Strong peat wrapped in a cocoon of iodine and white fruits. Beautiful balance, but it's still the peat that dominates, with a nice touch of citrus. The palate is velvety but a little light, with fine spices and a layer of herbaceous peat. The finish is very long, full of charcoal, tobacco, coffee, nutmeg, mustard, fig and soft, slightly burnt caramel. Score : 88
Ardbeg Uigeadail :This expression dates back to 2003 and really made a splash. The result of a blend of Bourbon and Sherry casks, it is one of the fundamentals of modern whisky.
Very powerful peat with a hint of red fruits, blueberries, blackberries, cherries, molasses and caramel. Chimney fire, enticing smoke. Nougat and nuts. Silky on the palate, with perfect balance. The spices rise to an incredible, devastating finish, full of soot and charcoal, coffee, dark chocolate and damp earth. Score : 90
Ardbeg Corryvreckan :Five years after the Uigeadail came the Corryvreckan. The result of a complex triple maturation process, some believe it to be better than Uigeadail, but the debate remains open.
Imperious, vegetal peat, enhanced by a vinous and fruity touch that blends very well, slightly acidic. On the palate, it's more discreet but balanced, and the spices are violent. The finish is apocalyptic, with unprecedented strength, tar and coal, soot, fuel oil, liquorice and dried fruits. Score : 89
What I gain from it :
- The Core Range is, of course, a synthesis of the Ardbeg profile: violent, herby peat, a touch of citrus, a coastal character with iodine, sea spray and seaweed. And in the background, the silky smoothness that is its hallmark.
- Each of the 5 expressions that make up the Core Range is interesting in its own way, forming a whole that weaves itself around the Ten, 2 with a rather high alcohol content, 2 Sherry, 2 Bourbon, and the Corryvreckan, which stands a little apart.
- However, the An Oa and the Wee Beastie are nice, but I'd swap them for an older expression, around 15/16 years old, that's what's missing. The An Oa and the Wee Beastie have a few small flaws, light on the palate, not very complex, which make them optional.
- On the other hand, if we stick to the three oldest expressions, Ten, Uigeadail and Corryvreckan, it's honestly perfect. I'm not aware of a Core Range of such quality. And if you take quality, not age, into account, the value for money is very attractive.
Conclusion :
We can continue to argue about the limited editions, some of which are frankly questionable, but in any case the Core Range is unassailable. OK, the An Oa and the Wee Beastie can be dispensed with. But the other three are truly superb, and any whisky lover worthy of the name who is not allergic to peat must own them.
Uigeadail and Corryvreckan are also said to decline in quality over the years. The newer it is, the worse it is. It's true that I've come across some disappointing Batches, but they weren't necessarily the most recent. However, to be on the safe side, I recommend buying old Batches at auction. It's more expensive, but you're sure not to be disappointed.
With Ardbeg, you can't lose sight of the essentials. And that's the Core Range. After that, if you look hard enough and pay the price, you can find some memorable limited editions, or even some excellent independent bottlings. But the basics remain the basics.
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