14 December 2024.
A bit of History :
The Diageo Special Releases first appeared in 2001, and Talisker was part of the first batch, with the Port Ellen 1st Release. After that, there were 2 releases in 2002, one in 2003, as in 2004 and 2005, two more in 2006, 2007, 2008 and 2009, and only one in 2010. Then nothing in 2011, but they made up for it in 2012 with a 35-year old, one more in 2013, but then nothing. That makes 17 limited editions, all between 20 and 35 years old, and all historic. This is certainly the pinnacle of what Talisker can offer us. In 2018, however, Talisker is back among the Diageo Special Releases, but with much younger products. 8-year old in 2018, 15-year old in 2019, 8-year old in 2020 and 2021, 11-year old in 2022, and even a NAS in 2023. In 2024, it's an 8-year old again. So we're now on the 24th Talisker Release, and the next delivery will arrive next September with a 14-year old, which I hope will be good.
The Line Up Concept :
I've only tasted a few editions of the Diageo Special Releases old series, but they are absolutely epic. As for the new series, what is it worth? What's the point of featuring Talisker again in these Releases? In my previous Talisker Line Up, I more or less came to the conclusion that only the Diageo Special Releases were really worth looking at. The 10yo from the regular range has some definite faults, the 18yo is very good but far too expensive, independent bottlings are very rare, and the value for money is rather depressing. The 25yo is astronomically expensive, even though there's nothing exceptional about it in my opinion. And I'm not talking about the multiple NAS, Storm, Skye, Dark Storm, Select, none of which I'm happy with. I tasted the Wilder Seas and thought it was pretty good, but it's hard to find. This confirms that only Diageo Special Releases combine satisfactory quality, fairly wide distribution and a nearly reasonable price.
But not all Diageo Special Releases are created equal. Some are much better than others. That's the aim of this tasting, to separate the wheat from the chaff, and to recommend the good stuff. Perhaps we can also see a certain continuity in these Releases, some common markers.
Some bottlings have little nicknames, like The Rogue Seafury or The Beast from the Deep. I'll spare you these details, but I think you'll be grateful.
The Tasting :
Talisker 11yo Special Release 2022 : This is the quietest of the Diageo Special Releases. It combines a relatively low alcohol content with the lowest possible peat content. This brings out the best in the rest.
Very maritime profile, seaweed, kelp, the sweetness of Bourbon in the background, then it becomes salty, coarse sea salt, foam, sea spray. Light, crystalline peat. On the palate, the Bourbon takes over again, with honey and vanilla, beautiful spices, cloves, cumin, white fruit. Quite a long, powerful finish, salt, charcoal, limestone. Score : 88
Talisker 15 yo Special Release 2019 : This is the oldest of the new series, and also the best. The maturation is relatively simple, which brings out the best in the distillate.
The nose is complex, floral, maritime and fruity. The distillery profile is perfectly recognisable, salt, sea spray, seaweed, kelp, but with an unusual depth. Melting caramel, almonds, honey. Prickly pears. On the palate, it's suave, superbly balanced, limestone and creamy vanilla, lychee. Very powerful finish, dragon fruit, a touch of wax, cola, nutmeg. Score: 90
Talisker 8yo Special Release 2020 : This one was finished in rum casks, which is rather worrying. How does the costal distillate go with rum?
The influence of rum is important, cane sugar, agave, vanilla, papaya, lychee. A hint of smoke, mirabelle plums. Herbaceous notes, reeds. Very smooth on the palate, with spices galore. Candle wax, lychee. Long, powerful finish, a block of charcoal, banana, fine sand. Score : 88
Talisker 8yo Special Release 2024 : For this one, the maturation is normal, in Bourbon casks, but there's a finish in Stone-Spun Casks that seems odd to me. What's this thing about pebbles?
Lots of salt and tide, some mineral touches, sea breeze, kelp, even some fish. White fruit and vanilla in the background. On the palate, it's the same, foamy, coarse sea salt, a little custard, intense spices, pepper, cumin. Long and powerful finish, still very salty, lychee, foam, cola. Score: 89
Talisker 1982 Special Release 2003 20yo : This one is from the old series. Let's not get carried away, it's the last sample I have left. And given the way stocks are disappearing, I have no idea when I'll have any left in my glass.
Various fruit compotes, brioche bread, soft caramel, iodine, sea air, chalky touches. Almond paste, old leather. Silky, maritime palate, with fruit in the background. The peppery note is still there. Deep salt, which breaks down into several slices on the finish, which is very long, fiery, caramelised, nougatine, macadamia nuts. Clove. Score: 91
Talisker Special Release 2023 : No age, and on top of that a finish in different types of Port that is highly suspect. I dip my lips in anyway, cautiously.
On the nose, white peaches, lychee, small Swiss cheeses full of sugar. The tide is there in the background. Quite creamy, rather pleasant. Quite good on the palate, a little too sweet for my taste though, cane sugar, reeds, banana. Long and powerful finish, white grapes, sugar paste. Score: 88
Talisker 8yo Special Release 2021 : This is a highly peaty Talisker, without doubt the most peaty Talisker there is, with very discreet maturation in Bourbon casks.
The peat is imposing, maritime, set against a beguiling smoke. The tide is there, the foam, the sea spray. Iodine. On the palate, maritime freshness, lychees, juicy pears, intense spices. Violent, powerful finish, full of limestone and quartz. Coal, rocks lashed by the waves. Reeds. Score: 89
What I gain from it :
- There are, of course, the well-known Talisker hallmarks: fairly pronounced costal nuances, a few mineral touches, not too strong peat, but also smooth, sometimes exotic fruits, which give a great richness of flavour. It's worth remembering that this is an excellent distillery.
- These are very reliable bottlings, and the quality is there. I'd recommend the 2019 above all, which you can still find at auction, but also the 2021, the 2022 and the 2024. That said, despite the rum or port finish, it must be said, it's never bad.
- There is a gulf between the old series, which lasted from 2001 to 2013, and the new one, which began in 2018. From the age of 20 onwards, Talisker's distillate is extremely rich, deep, full of various fruits, dried fruit, exotic fruit, a real festival. Every Talisker enthusiast should try it at least once.
- I missed the 2018, but I tasted it a few years ago. From memory, it seemed good, but a little too influenced by Bourbon casks.
Conclusion :
Yes, Talisker is best represented by Diageo Special Releases. And even if those in the new series may be disappointing compared to those in the old series, they're still the best on the Isle of Skye (sorry Torabhaig, but you're too young yet). That said, despite the quality, there are still a few obstacles to avoid. Firstly, the price isn't cheap for an 8-year-old. But you can make an effort. Then there's the question of avoiding outlandish experiments, and on that subject I've read that the casks for the next edition, due out in September, have been toasted with volcanic rock. Are you serious? These people really have a problem with pebbles. And why not rocks from the Moon while we're at it? In short, it really is time for Diageo to stop doing this. Talisker is never better enhanced than with Bourbon casks. This distillate needs casks that aren't too invasive to bring out its authenticity, the costal and mineral nuances, the yellow and exotic fruits. This is true of many distilleries, but particularly of this one.
I'm not saying that these odd experiments are a failure, you always have to be creative in the whisky world, and to be honest, I gave high ratings to the editions finished in rum or port casks, because they deserved it. But I prefer the pure Talisker profile, when it's not hampered by any original cask. In that regard, I'm not too keen on Port Ruighe either. That's why I found the Special Release 2024 so interesting. It's a return to the roots, to more traditional maturation, which suits me. Why don't they always do it this way? As with Lagavulin, very simple ageing in Bourbon casks, very fine differences over the years, and always the Talisker identity that stands out. The distillate is excellent, it doesn't need to be masqueraded with Port or Rum. A little Sherry might do it some good, but not too much. The Special Release 2021 is interesting because it doesn't dull the character of the distillate. The same goes for the 2024. Has anyone found that the pebbles change the taste in any way? If not, so much the better. Marketing is always looking for something new, but that's not necessarily a good idea. What you need is stability. True whisky lovers need to know what they're going to find. They need to know that they'll get a real bottle of Talisker every year. When the customer knows what he's going to find, that's when he's sure to buy.
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