Line Up #19 : Caol Ila Independent Bottlings II, Middle-age Crisis

 18 July 2023. 

 

 

 

The Line Up Project

I continue my journey through the independent bottlings from Caol Ila. Having explored the young ones aged 10 and under, I'm now tackling the older ones aged 11 to 20. Here again, all types of ageing should be represented, as far as possible. The aim is to find constants in the distillery's profile, to find the best maturations and the most trustworthy brands. Are the Caol Ila hallmarks to be found in the extreme variety of expressions? Is it a benchmark, a reference? What does this distillery bring to the world of whisky? 

Elixir Distillers, Scotch Malt Whisky Society, Brühler Whiskyhaus, Gordon & MacPhail, La Maison du Whisky, which always partners with Signatory Vintage, and many others, all these illustrious houses with untouchable reputation are proliferating new vintages. Since you can't buy them all, you need to know which ones to choose first, which ones are the most original or the most curious. 

The Tasting

Black Friday 2006 16 yo Bottled 2022 : Every year this special bottling is released on Black Friday by Elixir Distillers. Most of the time it's an undisclosed distillery, but we know this one is Caol Ila. 

Salty breeze, white fruits. Then the peat rises, thick, chalky, iodised, crystalline. Vanilla bean. Speculoos cream. Airy, ethereal. On the palate, walnuts, almonds, coconut and other exotic fruits, spices measured out to perfection. Long, bewitching finish. Score: 89

Caol Ila 2010 The Single Malts of Scotland 12 yo : An entirely Sherry cask-aged from The Single Malts of Scotland, Elixir Distillers' prestige range. 

Leather, quince jam, peat, chestnut cream, chocolate. Gooseberries, raspberries. Woody palate, tinder, maple syrup, apricots, fairly strong spices, powerful and carbonated finish. Nutmeg. Score : 89

Caol Ila 13 yo Restaurant Bahnsteig 1 : an exceptional bottling in support of a highly reputed restaurant, and finished in a Madeira cask, a sweet wine of Portuguese origin.
Invasive red fruits with a lovely smoky background. Pomegranate, blackberry and blackcurrant. Pinch of salt. Smooth and mellow on the palate, mirabelle pulp, followed by well-managed spices. Long carbonated finish with ashes, soot, blueberries. Bark. Nutmeg. Score: 89

 

 

 

 

 

Caol Ila 2009 Vulcan 12 yo : This time a classic maturation in a Bourbon cask, for a Single Cask from a little-known company. 

Light breeze, sea breeze, vanilla and lemon. Thick smoke, heavy peat. On the palate, lemon zest and lychee, spices under control, fairly long finish, explosive, woody, shortbread, hazelnut. Score: 88

 

Caol Ila 2005 Connoisseurs Choice Cask Strength 15 yo  : Another first-fill Sherry cask, but this time less invasive, from the highly prestigious company Gordon & MacPhail. 

Genoise and smoke. Lemon pulp. Delicate iodine. Greengages and pears. On the palate, prunes and mashed quinces. Light spices. Nutmeg. Long finish, delicately lemony and iodised, with a hint of cereal. Almonds and shortbread. Woody bitterness. Score : 89

SMWS 2006 53.406 Exotic, dark and medicinal 15 yo : The Scotch Malt Whisky Society is also highly prestigious. This bottling, finished in a Pedro Ximénez Sherry cask, caused quite a stir when it was released.

Smoked cherries. Black earth, soot. Cranberries, gooseberries. Very fruity palate, fermented red fruits, crimson, powerful spices, nutmeg. Atomic finish, wood and chestnut. Oak leaf. Score: 89

Caol Ila 2009 North Star 11 yo : North Star Spirits is a recent but highly reputable trading company. Here we have an expression entirely matured in an Oloroso Sherry cask. 

Straight away very deep, very dark. Leafy, spicy, woody. Moderate grainy smoke. Salted butter caramel. Coffee with a square of dark chocolate. Very unctuous on the palate, fondant, liquorice stick. Light spices. Very long and powerful finish, lignite, heather, humus. Score. 90

Caol Ila1996 Artist #2 Over 15 yo : Each year, the Artist range brings together top quality bottlings, thanks to a partnership between La Maison du Whisky and Signatory Vintage. Here an ageing in a Bourbon cask

Very airy nose, white fruits and iodine, salt crystals, vaporous lemon. Cereals, ripe wheat. Sea breeze. Mirabelle and white plums on the palate, calm spices, light peat. Vanilla blossom. Very long, powerful finish with green apple and cinnamon. Score: 90

Caol Ila 2009 The Single Malts of Scotland 11 yo : Another product from The Single Malts of Scotland, but this time matured in a Bourbon cask. 

Intense iodine, sea salt, sea breeze. White fruits, grapes and greengages. wisp of ashy smoke. Slightly lemony on the palate, then spicy. Meringue. Long, explosive finish, sandy earth, marrons glacés. Score: 88

Caol Ila 2006 Gordon & MacPhail Cask Strength 11 yo : a second Gordon & MacPhail and another ageing in a sherry cask. 

Velvety, iodised nose, leather and dates. Light dusty smoke. American tobacco. Quite fruity on the palate, but also peaty. Pears and herbs. Well-managed spices. Long, charred, maritime finish. Oysters and vergeoise. Score: 90

What I gain from it

• As it's getting older, Caol Ila's profile changes. Or rather, it evolves. The iodine and peat become lighter, even evanescent, and I could focus on the smoke nuances, which are still very intense and deep. There's soot, burnt wood and ash. 
  

• We're much more into subtlety and depth, so ageing in Sherry cask suits it better. Bourbon cask ageing doesn't produce bad results, but it highlights the distillate a little more straightforwardly, without the nuances. I think it loses something. Similarly, maturing in wine casks can denature the distillate. This produces results that are too sweet, which once again hides the nuances.  
  

• This is still a first-class distillery. Smoother, wiser, it is gaining in complexity and subtlety. Compared to the iodine-laden 5-year-olds, it feels like a different brand. But it's the same spirit, transfigured by the years. I can't think of any other juice that  evolves so much in just ten years, apart from Lagavulin, which has a similar profile.
  

Conclusion

The biggest trading companies are fond of Caol Ila's various faces, and that's hardly surprising. It's an easy distillate to obtain, and a guarantee of quality. Without being very peaty, it has its own personality, but also the complexity of the great whisky names. At middle age, Caol Ila gives a result that is both moderate and full of character. It is neither too light nor too violent, it will appeal to everyone.  

All pictures were taken on the distillery site.