56,8°
Distillery : Port Ellen - Islay
Sherry Cask
Independent Bottling
By The Vintage Malt Whisky Co. Ltd
Limited Edition
Single Cask
Bottled in 1998
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured, Cask Strength
Peated around 35 ppm
There are five different bottlings of Port Ellen distilled in 1983, the year the distillery closed, and matured for 14 years before being released as part of The Cooper’s Choice collection. It is not possible to distinguish between them as the cask number is not specified. You therefore have to identify them by their alcohol content, and this one stands at 56.8 ABV, it was reserved for the Swiss market. It’s amusing because on some bottles there’s a typo, and the year of distillation given is 1993, not 1983. But that’s a mistake. We have no further details about this gem, as at the time, Port Ellen bottlings were by no means considered anything out of the ordinary.
Let's Taste It :
A burst of peat verging on astringency, but which balances out shortly afterwards, it is thick, mineral, sticky with soot, and at the same time very pure, with a maritime character, punctuated by seaweed and fish scales. Behind this, herbaceous notes, reeds, dried dandelion, caramel and dried dates, molasses, toasted wood, all sprinkled with lemon and vanilla. On the palate, prunes and lychees, the peat becomes more subtle, more chalky, smoother, with an ounce of charcoal nonetheless, and powerful spices. Baked bananas, soggy biscuit. A long, powerful finish that builds slowly, becoming more cereal-like, shortbread, apple fritters, fragments of leather, warm wax, very ripe mirabelle plums.
In Short,
I was particularly impressed by the nose, which was incredibly powerful, yet perfectly refined. But it took a long time to really open up. And finally, the finish was incredible, very long and complex. Yet another little piece of history that I’m glad to have experienced. That said, it is a bit misleading, the name is so steeped in myth. I’d be curious to see what would happen if we presented this wine in a blind tasting to a group of connoisseurs. We might be in for a few surprises. But the quality is there; that’s undeniable. I won’t mention the price, to avoid making everyone feel a bit down.
Score : 91
To Be Listened While Sipping :
Swallow the Sun - Woven into Sorrow
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