Saturday, 9 August 2025

Tobermory 1994 The Alambic Classique Collection Rare & Old Selection 30 yo

 
 
 
62,9°
Distillery : Tobermory - Islands
Château d'Yquem Sauternes Barrel
Independent Bottling 
By Alambic Classique 
Limited Edition 
Single Cask 
Bottled in 2024
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured, Cask Strength
Totally Unpeated
 
 
 
Alambic Classique is a German independent bottler founded in 1981. They are particularly well known for their Tobermory bottlings, so this one is all the more enticing, it's a 30-year-old Tobermory that spent its entire maturation in a barrel of Château d'Yquem, quite simply one of the finest Sauternes, a highly regarded sweet wine. Only 172 bottles were filled, at a surprisingly high alcohol content for its age.
 
 
 

Let's Taste It : 
Lemon cream, liquid honey, oily walnuts, candied apricots. Beeswax, beige shoe polish, churned butter, crushed mirabelle plums, a slice of pineapple, rose liqueur. Lacquered wood, egg yolk, lychee, jasmine. A tiny touch of iodine and mineral notes at the end, a superb marriage with the fruitiness of the Sauternes. Roasted corn kernels, cooked and lightly caramelised pears. Nougatine. Fragile and delicate on the palate, with light biscuits, cat's tongue, flambéed sugar, then light but very present spices, cumin and cloves. The finish is extremely long, with coffee grounds, cocoa powder, coconut pearl, meringue, melting whipped cream, courgette flower fritters, a pinch of icing sugar, prawn crisps. A hint of limestone.
 
In Short, 
Not only is this whisky exceptional, it is historic. I can't remember anything I've found so good without peat or Sherry. It's insanely elegant and incredibly complex. The sugar is crystalline, the fruit is velvety, the wax is evanescent, everything is somehow perfect. I even wonder if I'm not going to raise the score again, because this is pure genius. I'm also thinking that I really appreciate maturations in Sauternes casks, because this Kilchoman, but also this Octomore, have a special place in my heart. There should be more of them anyway. The price is quite high, but not that much for a 30 year old. And this bottle is one of those that deserves every sacrifice. I highly recommend buying it, as long as you let me have one.
Score : 91 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                           To Be Listened While Sipping : 
 
                                           Nubya Garcia - Water's Path

Friday, 8 August 2025

Line Up #31 : Compass Box, an exploration

25 February 2025. 
 

A bit of History : 
Compass Box was created in 2000 by an American entrepreneur, John Glaser, who had previously worked for Johnnie Walker as International Marketing Director. Although John Glaser is an American citizen, Compass Box is British, make no mistake. It is based in Richmond, just outside London City.

                                            John Glaser

From the outset, the principle has been to create whiskies that are accessible to all, and to achieve this, the blending method is essential. Blending allows to create products that are not too strong in character and that develop a fine balance. Legend has it that John Glaser made his first Blends at home, in his London flat.


Success came with The Spice Tree and especially The Peat Monster, their best-seller, and now they are a well-respected company, even though they only make Blends. They are unique in their genre, the only ones to make quality blends, and only with Scotch whisky, in the world of whisky.


The reason I'm talking about Compass Box today is that John Glaser left his post in May 2024. The origins of this departure can be traced back to May 2022, when Compass Box, which until then had been entirely independent, opened up its capital to Caelum Capital Limited, which became the majority shareholder. Previously, Compass Box had been a small, rather artisanal team with an experimental vocation. Since then, it has become a big machine with a well-oiled growth plan and an investment of several tens, if not hundreds, of millions of US dollars. Maurice Doyle and then Nishat Gupte were successively appointed CEO to replace John Glaser, and as far as Blending was concerned, James Saxon took over. James Saxon joined the company in 2019, and had already been involved in the manufacture of several products.


Recently, some of Compass Box's flagship products have been withdrawn from the Core Range, such as The Spice Tree and The Story of the Spaniard. Others have taken their place, demonstrating a real new direction. The aim is to internationalise the brand and conquer the Asian, American and travel-retail markets, by emphasising product storytelling and strong identities: smoke, pastry, sherry and so on. John Glaser was already doing this, but in a more subtle and nuanced way, favouring the complexity of the products and the uniqueness of the blend.


The Line Up Concept : 
In this context, the identity of Compass Box raises questions. My role is not to complain about Compass Box's direction, but to assess whether its products are still worthwhile from the point of view of the enlightened enthusiast.


In this sense, I've combined products from the John Glaser era with those prepared by James Saxon. Is there a noticeable difference? Is one better than the other?


Does Compass Box have the personality to enter the great intercontinental whisky market? The gentlemen at Caelum Capital Limited think so, since they have invested in it, and I hope they are right. But they are financiers, and their answer will inevitably differ from that of the connoisseur, who cares little about the monetary factor and is interested only in the product itself. Will the investments made to internationalise the brand lose its identity?


That's what we're going to see with this short Line Up, which I'm not sure will be truly representative because there aren't many whiskies, but it's already food for thought.


The Tasting :  
Compass Box The Circle Release N°1 : In 2018, a competition was organised between several bar owners to see who could come up with the best blend. This one is the result of that competition. A Circle N°2 was released in 2022.
Very fruity nose with just the right amount of minerality, wax and exotic fruit. Discreet cereals and heather honey. On the palate, also lots of honey and pineapple, vanilla, mirabelle plum pulp, egg custard. Powerful, fairly long finish, charcoal, brown sugar, cinnamon, melting caramel. Score: 88
 

Compass Box The Peat Monster 4th Edition : It's not widely known, but there were 7 limited editions of Peat Monster before it became part of the Signature Range, Compass Box's regular range, and two more afterwards. This one dates from 2016, and is one of the last to be created exclusively by John Glaser.
Very stable nose, good fullness and good balance between peat and fruit. Nice minerality. Liquid honey and limestone on the palate, with a hint of salt. The finish is correct and pleasant, with charcoal, peat, foam and waves. Score: 86

 
Compass Box Peat Monster Arcana : This limited edition dates from 2020 and was made under the direction of James Saxon. As the name suggests, there's Ardbeg in there.
Very Ardbeg on the nose, but fruitier than usual. Limestone and quartz, iodine, sea spray, mirabelle plums and greengages. The palate is full of honey and exotic fruit, banana, mango, papaya and pineapple. Behind, peat and charcoal spices. Long but not very powerful finish, wax and tar, cola, toasted wood. Score: 89

 
Compass Box Flaming Heart 6th Edition : This brand is also one of Compass Box's bestsellers. The first edition was launched in 2006, and the next 5 were the work of John Glaser. Only the 7th was produced by James Saxon, followed by the 8th, due out this year.
A background of boggy peat, and tangy fruits, liquid honey, lemon and pineapple. Creamy vanilla. On the palate, more peat, but there's also something silky and light, with yellow fruit and wax. Quite a long, powerful finish, brown sugar, fuel oil, lychees. Score: 89


Compass Box No Name N°2 : The 3 No Names were launched in 2017, 2019 and 2021. The first two were crafted by John Glaser, the last by James Saxon.
Very costal and fruity peat, iodine, sea spray, mountain honey, lemon pulp, pineapple slices, semi-salted butter. On the palate, fish scales, limestone, gypsum, banana, beeswax. Quite long and powerful finish, peppery, charcoal, cola, wood liqueur, slight hints of bitterness. Score : 88


Compass Box The Peat Monster Cask Strength Origin Story : This is the second Cask Strength version of The Peat Monster, composed by James Saxon.
Very powerful peat, and at the same time evanescent, carried by iodine and sea spray, some white fruit, grapes, lychees, mirabelle plums. On the palate, it's again very fruity, but it doesn't overwhelm the peat, the balance is perfect. The finish is muddy, powerful, long, charcoal-like, deep, hazelnuts, shortbread biscuits and ashy chestnuts. Score: 90


What I gain from it :  
  • I've deliberately narrowed my tasting down to peated products almost exclusively. Sorry, but that has to suit my tastes too. That said, there are some very nice non-peated products at Compass Box, including The Spice Tree, which unfortunately seems to have ceased production.

 


  • There are differences between the whiskies made by John Glaser and those concocted by James Saxon. I have to say that I prefer James Saxon's whiskies. James Saxon's blends are more straightforward, sharper, even if the balance is always there. John Glaser sought more subtlety and nuance, even to the point of sometimes erasing some of the character features of the distilleries used. That's just my opinion, it's a matter of taste, and everyone can think what they like. In any case, despite these differences, I find the range homogeneous, in the sense that James Saxon's contributions do not distort the brand. It's always about finding a good Blend, something original and balanced.

 


  • But John Glaser's first requirement was not to create the perfect balance, it was to make whiskies that were easy to drink, to convert people who weren't necessarily connoisseurs to other whiskies. And that's easier to see with peat, as peated whiskies are often divisive, with many amateurs not liking them, or not liking them very much, and with the peated whiskies from Compass Box, it's clear just how much John Glaser has made peat palatable. First of all, you can't resist his bottles, you always want to take a second or even a third glass. Secondly, the peat is fused with fruit, wax, so many elegant and sophisticated things that you don't really feel like you're drinking peat, even though it is peat. It's not dirty, rustic or powerful, it's just well made, and sometimes even perfect. In this respect, James Saxon is a worthy successor to John Glaser, he continues to make peat sound very classy, even if it's a little more assertive with him, at least with Arcana and The Origin Story. Though it's still discreet.


Conclusion : 
I think Compass Box has managed the transition from John Glaser to James Saxon quite well. The quality is still there, and the brand's principles remain unchanged: balance, quality, with light contrasts, and a profile that must always be pleasant and easy to drink. This is what was demanded with John Glaser, and what is maintained with James Saxon. I don't think the standards have dropped.

 
There are, of course, minor differences in the work of the two whisky makers, but these are insignificant, what transcends them is the profile of the brand, which remains at the forefront. That said, I think that James Saxon's work could be easier to sell internationally. The identity of his creations is easier to identify, it's more sherry, more peat, more fruity, more indulgent, less balanced at all costs. The profile of each whisky is easier to discern, and it's less complex too.


I think we can conclude that the transition has been a success, from a small artisanal company founded by John Glaser, to the international empire that is taking shape. Quality has been maintained, and the company's values have been preserved. Prices haven't changed much either - they're market prices. The connoisseur can therefore be satisfied, as can the financier.


The reservations I have are therefore not linked to the company's development, but to Compass Box's own DNA. If their aim is to introduce people to whisky with products that are easy to drink, why do they only make blends? We all know John Glaser's famous line: ‘Anyone can bottle a Single Cask, but the real skill in Scotch whisky is demonstrated by the blender’. It's pure provocation, of course it's not true. If anyone could bottle a quality single cask, I'd have made several by now, and I wouldn't be here ragging on other people's bottlings. It takes skill, time, daring and a lot of money to make a good whisky, whether Single Cask or Blend. The problem is that with a Blend, you have less of the personality of the distillate, of a distillery. What totally fascinates me about whisky is that each distillery (let's say, each major distillery) has its own character, it can be distinguished from another neighbouring distillery, each distillery tells a story, its own story, the story of its soil, its climate, its environment, its creation and the men who made it. This story is diluted in a Blend. So it may be pleasant to drink, it's seductive, but that's not what whisky is. I mean, it's not quite that. Whisky is about terroir, and where's the terroir in a Blend?


I fully understand that Blend is also part of the history of whisky. Without Blend, whisky wouldn't be where it is today, it was Blend that popularised whisky throughout the world, and made it what it is, the world's greatest spirit. It's also a good thing to preserve this history and enhance it by producing quality Blends. But that's not what really interests me about whisky today, and I don't think I'm the only one. What interests me is getting to the roots of a distillery, discovering its own identity. Springbank, for example, is a distillery like no other, which has never done anything like the others, and its whisky is like no other. It's no coincidence that this distillery is the most respected today. It's because that's what we're looking for. Pure, authentic, uncompromising character. The same goes for the peat. Compass Box makes pleasant peated whiskies, well made, but not so peated. While true peat fans are satisfied with cavernous Peat Bombs, Compass Box makes peated whiskies for people who don't really like peat. But those who really love it, the passionate ones, need more, something less balanced, more assertive.


Compass Box certainly does some nice things, but that's all it does. And that's a shame. That's why I will never consider this company to be fundamental in the world of whisky. Despite all the respect I have for the work of John Glaser and James Saxon, and all the pleasure I get from tasting their products.
 

Sunday, 3 August 2025

Port Charlotte 2001 East Village Whisky 23 yo

 
 
 
51,7°
Distillery : Bruichladdich - Islay 
Hogshead
Independent Bottling 
By East Village Whisky Company
Limited Edition 
Single Cask 
Bottled in 2024
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured, Cask Strength
Peated around 40 ppm 
 
 
 
Recently, there has been a kind of competition to bring out the oldest Port Charlotte possible. There were a few 19-year-olds released confidentially in 2023 and 2024, but the 20-year-old Rock'ndaal from the Feis Ile 2024 was the occasion to communicate that it was the oldest Port Charlotte. This was untrue, as some 21-year-old Port Charlotte had already been launched before. This one was the bottling that made everyone agree. It is the oldest by 2 years. It has been aged in a Hogshead cask, but the colour of the liquid seems to me to be a little dark for that. Only 142 bottles are on sale.
 
 
 

Let's Taste It : 
Woody fruits, liquid caramel, chewing tobacco, grimy smoke, soot, greasy charcoal. Gooseberries and cranberries, soaked in fuel oil, motor oil, oilseeds. Grape seed oil, argan soap, fermented fruits, it's a little vinous. Floral touches bring a nice balance. On the palate, chestnut cream, dried fruits, dates, apricots, chocolate, lively spices, cumin, cloves. The finish is long and powerful, just-ground coffee, cocoa powder, bark, tinder, bay leaves, hazelnuts, cashew nuts, macadamia. A pinch of charcoal.
 
In Short, 
The nose is typical of the brand's profile, but there's nothing absolutely exceptional about it, though that's to be expected given its age. The finish is very beautiful, but on the palate I find it a little light. It's disappointing on the whole, I was hoping for better from the oldest Port Charlotte in circulation. It's still a very good whisky, of course, but at over 20 years of age, it should be sublime. I wonder if there isn't a problem with the cask, which is advertised as being a Hogshead, but I detected some vinous touches and it's a little too woody. This reminds us that age is not a decisive factor in the quality of whisky. What makes a good whisky is the quality of the distillate, and the quality of the cask, which can only be improved by age.
Score : 88  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                           To Be Listened While Sipping : 
 
                                           Jakob - Blind Them With Science

Saturday, 2 August 2025

Line Up #30 : Signatory Vintage, the 100 Proof range

16 January 2025. 
 

A bit of History :  
Signatory Vintage is a very well-known independent bottler. It was founded in 1988 by Andrew Symington and his brother Brian. A the beginning they wanted to get a signature of a celebrity on each bottle, hence the name Signatory Vintage. Success came quickly, thanks in particular to the company's principles: no colouring agents, no cold filtration, which was not necessarily uncommon among independent bottlers, but they didn't communicate much about it, whereas it was a basic principle at Signatory, and it was immediately promoted.
 
                                                 Andrew Symington
 
With the Cask Strength Collection, with its highly recognisable design, they added a principle: all their bottlings in this range were necessarily bottled as Cask Strength. Here too, it was a convincing selling point, and success followed.
 
 
In 2018, they celebrated the company's 30th anniversary with a series of landmark bottlings, which put them firmly in the ranks of the great bottlers. It was thought at the time that they had reached the top and that they couldn't surprise anyone any more. But that was without counting on the team's boundless creativity.

 
In January 2024, the 100 Proof range was launched. The idea was to launch bottlings at 100° Proof, i.e. 57.1°, so not quite Cask Strength, but still very powerful, vintage and aged, at a very attractive price. These are not single casks, but blends of several casks, making limited editions of 1,000 or 2,000 bottles most of the time. At first, it didn't cause much of a stir. But when several bottlings followed one another, the public started to take an interest.
 
Now, a year and a half later, this range has become a must-have in the whisky world. There are several sub-ranges, Exceptional Cask, US 100 Proof, and 100 Proof Single Grain. This variety shows that it is a total success, with low prices attracting the public, and the character of the bottlings convincing.
 
The Line Up Concept :  
In our time, people say there's a shortage of stock. But that's not quite true. The lack of stock concerns the very famous distilleries, but most distilleries have plenty of stock. The proof is in this range, which totals around 70 bottlings in just 18 months. Many distilleries are delighted to get rid of their surplus through this range.
 
 
It is also said that prices are rising. But if prices are going up, it's also because the public's demands are increasing. People want Single Cask, and that's expensive and hard to find, because you need good casks and a fairly long maturation period. With the 100 Proof range, there are no single casks, maturation is generally short, and the casks are often refilled, which keeps costs relatively low. 

 
In addition to the fact that we are witnessing a re-democratisation of quality whisky, which is a revolution in the world of whisky, because in recent years we have tended to go in the direction of the elitist, this range allows us to discover or rediscover little-known, ignored distilleries in the shadow of the big names. It's an exploration of Scotland that you can do, and comparing the different distilleries becomes a game.
 

But precisely, is this increasingly famous range fulfilling its mission? Does it manage to combine a low price with a certain quality? Does it allow people to discover the character of lesser-known distilleries? In short, the success is undeniable, but does it reflect a genuine success, or simply a possible passing fad, more or less limited to curiosity? One of the problems raised by the public is that there are too many Sherry casks being bottled, and that the Sherry is often too overpowering, obscuring the identity of the distillery. Is this true?


That's what we're going to see with this Line Up. I've collected 28 samples from the range, which is almost half. I think it's fair to say it's representative. I tasted them once before, individually, but now I'm tasting them all again together, and yes, it was difficult. But it gave me an overview of the whole range, and helped me to find the answers to all my questions. 


The Tasting :            
Speyside (M) 100 Proof #25 13 yo : Officially, we don't know what it is, but in fact it's a Macallan, and to find a 13-year-old Macallan at this price, you have to get up early! Besides, it sold out a long time ago.
A very fine, purely Macallan nose, full of melting toffee, walnuts and chestnuts coated in cinnamon. The finish is powerful and languorous, but the palate is a little too woody and bitter. Score: 88
 
Speyside (M) 2011 100 Proof #29 13 yo : It's another Macallan that's barely hiding, the same age, but this time only from 1st Fill Oloroso casks, a real class act. A pure heresy on the current whisky market, much to our delight.
It has much in common with its predecessor, but is much more balanced and varied, more subtle, less bitter, pleasant on the palate, long and deep finish, chocolate, chestnuts, apple crumble. Score: 88
 
 
Orkney (HP) 2010 100 Proof #30 14 yo : There are 4 Orkney's in the range, all of them Highland Park of course. They are all the same age, 14 years, but this is the only one to have aged only in 1st Fill Oloroso Sherry Butt casks.
A pure Highland Park nose, with heather, honey, some cereals, iodine, and very light peat, juicy white fruit. Very smooth on the palate, with a pleasant finish that's not too strong. Score: 88
 

Secret Orkney 2010 100 Proof #15 14 yo : This Highland Park is a blend of 1st Fill Oloroso Sherry Butt and Bourbon Hogshead.
More peat and minerality, but otherwise it's still the same and all the better for it, heather, honey, white fruit, iodine, creosote. Very pleasant palate, fruity and woody, with a much more powerful finish than its predecessor. Score: 88


Glenrothes 2015 100 Proof #6 9 yo : Here's a distillery that's unfairly little known and that has been featured twice in the range. Perhaps this is the opportunity to give it back its rightful place.
Creamy nose, red fruit coulis, elegant and deep oak. Velvety on the palate, dates, beeswax, melted butter, red plums. Long, pleasant finish, liquorice, brown tobacco, cola, dried banana. Score : 87

 
Glenrothes 2014 100 Proof #20 10 yo : This one is slightly older than the previous one, otherwise the maturation is the same, in Oloroso Sherry casks.
The nose is woodier, airier and less expressive than the previous one. Cereals and nuts. Round and fruity on the palate, then saturated with spices, leading to a very powerful but not so long finish of wood, tobacco and caramel. Score: 87

 
Glentauchers 2012 100 Proof #8 11 yo : Another lesser-known distillery to do justice to, and for the occasion the casks are exclusively 1st Fill Oloroso Sherry.
Heady nose, nail varnish, red fruits, various cereals, wood crumbs. Spring freshness. Pleasant palate, wood and tobacco, spices, powerful and pleasant finish, liquorice and stuffed figs. Score: 87


Glentauchers 2012 100 Proof #18 12 yo : Same recipe as the previous one, only a year older. For the same result?
Caramel and chocolate on the nose, raisins, liquorice stick. Pleasant, velvety palate, dates and honey, long and powerful finish, tobacco and cola. Milk chocolate. Score : 87


Aultmore 2007 Exceptional Cask #1 17 yo : 17 years, only 1st Fill Oloroso Sherry Butts, it's part of the VIP section of the range, the Exceptional Cask series.
Wood and apple crumble, some red fruit, cinnamon, dates and sultanas. Fruity on the palate, quince and greengage, lively spices, powerful finish, dried figs, milk chocolate. Score : 88


Aultmore 2007 Exceptional Cask #5 17 yo : The same, but exactly the same, as the previous one, so much so that there's nothing to differentiate them apart from the edition number.
The nose is more red fruit, redcurrants, raspberries. Woody depth, warm caramel, figs. A suave note that provokes complexity, dates and orange jam. On the palate, velvety dates, full-bodied fruit, well-mastered spices, long, powerful finish, tobacco, chocolate. Score : 88


Ben Nevis 2015 100 Proof #5 8 yo : Ben Nevis is undoubtedly the most represented distillery in the range, with no fewer than 5 bottlings. This one is a blend of 1st Fill & 2d Fill Oloroso Sherry Butts.
Mineral and peaty notes, a hint of icing sugar, with red fruits in the background. Fresh iodine. On the palate, red fruit purée, tomato soup. Powerful and racy finish, bark, chocolate. Score: 87


Ben Nevis 2019 100 Proof #1 4 yo : The very first bottling in the range, it's very young, 4 years old, heavily peated, with only Refill Oloroso Sherry casks.
Beautiful country peat, typical of the distillery, full of butter, with a tiny hint of iodine and vanilla. Mineral and salty notes. White fruit and honey on the palate. Long and racy finish with earthy, earthy undertones, limestone. Score: 87


Ben Nevis 2019 100 Proof #17 5 yo : The same maturation as the previous one, just a year older. That's 25% older, does it change anything?
The minerality and honey come together in perfect balance, with fairly light peat, vanilla butter, yellow plum juice and a hint of lemon zest. Interesting palate, fresh, oily. Fine spices. Long and robust finish, tobacco, bark, cola, damp wood, chocolate. Score: 87


Ardmore 2010 100 Proof #4 13 yo : A 13-year-old Ardmore aged in Sherry casks is a tempting choice, especially at this price.
Iodised fullness with a peaty base, rare fruit, fine minerality. Drops of lemon. Velvety and citrusy palate, grapefruit and pineapple, full, violent finish, iodine, limestone, cereals. Score: 87


Ardmore 2012 100 Proof #21 12 yo : Slightly younger, but mostly aged in Bourbon casks that have previously passed through Islay, this is not at all the same profile as the previous one, even though it comes from the same distillery.
The nose is more coppery, sustained by lemony peat, white fruit and mineral notes, iodine, limestone. Fresh palate, white fruit and lemon, lovely spices, long finish, blond tobacco, cola, wood. Score : 87


Caol Ila 2015 100 Proof #10 8 yo : A good range isn't a good range without Caol Ila. And so here is the first in the range, aged in a blend of 1st Fill Oloroso Sherry Butts and Bourbon Hogsheads.
Pure Caol Ila profile, ashy sherry, dark chocolate, imposing iodine, limestone and quartz. On the palate, milky vanilla, dessert cream. Powerful finish, full of cloves and smoked ham. Thick layer of ash. Score: 87


Caol Ila 2013 100 Proof #11 10 yo : Another Caol Ila, a little older, but this one is aged in 2d Fill Rum Barrels. This promises a lot of sugar.
Peat and icing sugar. Ashy smoke, white fruits. Nice fullness of iodine. On the palate, vanilla pulp, cane sugar. Long, warm finish of wood and charcoal. Score: 87


Bunnahabhain Staoisha 2013 100 Proof #13 10 yo : Even more peat with this one, although it's relatively old, and aged in 1st Fill Oloroso Sherry Butts.
Right from the nose, it's strongly mineral and chalky. No fruit, just peat, salt, quartz and tide. On the palate, seawater, oysters, shellfish, razor clams and whelks, lively spices. Long and powerful finish, very maritime, coal, cola, foam, earth. Score: 87


Glenburgie 2008 Exceptional Cask #2 15 yo : A 15 year old Glenburgie, aged entirely in 1st Fill Oloroso Sherry Butts, is bound to be interesting at this price.
On the nose, vegetable freshness, black radish, beetroot, old wood. On the palate, it's citrusy, with lemon and breadcrumbs, a strong spiciness. Long finish, but lacks a little flavour. Score: 88


Macduff 2007 Exceptional Cask #3 16 yo : A 16 year old Macduff, still in 1st Fill Oloroso Sherry Butts, which we don't disdain in principle, especially at this price.
Very Sherry and very round on the nose, dried fruit, dates, raisins, apricots. Gooseberries. Very smooth on the palate, as if coated in caramel and chocolate, with a long and complex, woody, chocolatey finish. Score : 88


Craigellachie 2007 Exceptional Cask #4 16 yo : 16 years old, 1st Fill Oloroso Sherry Butts, Craigellachie, what more can you say? The price is definitely a bargain.
Pleasant spring freshness, dried fruit dipped in caramel, creamy honey. Lemony notes. On the palate, soft caramel, fudge, medlars, long, powerful, very controlled finish, chocolate, coffee. Score : 88


Linkwood 2013 100 Proof #19 10 yo : This Linkwood is aged in 2d Fill Oloroso Sherry Butts, which promises not to smother the distillate.
Beautiful fruity fullness, redcurrants, green apples, juicy pears, peaches. The Sherry is discreet. Very velvety on the palate, with soft caramel and dates. Long and powerful finish full of chocolate. Score : 88

 
Glen Ord 2012 100 Proof #22 11 yo : This one is aged in 1st Fill Bourbon Barrels, which is quite rare in this range.
Pears and citrus fruits, white gooseberries, country notes, hay, fresh earth. On the palate, a balance of lemon, vanilla, dried fruit and hay. Grapefruit on the finish, young wood, shortbread biscuits. Score: 87

 
Secret Speyside 2010 100 Proof #16 13 yo : This one is a real secret, no one really knows where it comes from, some say Glenfarclas, but nothing for sure. In any case, it's a blend of 1st Fill Oloroso Sherry Butt and Bourbon Hogshead.
The nose is shy, but not unpleasant, with cereals, nuts and pear. The palate is very well crafted, with citrus, orchard fruits and melted butter. The finish is pleasant, very controlled, with chocolate, tobacco and coffee. Score: 87

 
Tullibardine 2015 100 Proof #2 8 yo : We are promised big Sherry with this one, aged in 1st Fill Oloroso Sherry Butts.
Muffled, woody Sherry, dried fruit and red fruit, grapes, apricots, redcurrants. Mushrooms and damp wood. On the palate it's velvety, toffee and baked apple, long, quiet finish, almond paste, bark. Score: 87


Mannochmore 2012 100 Proof #13 11 yo : Aged again in 1st Fill Oloroso Sherry Butts, it's a parade of Sherry Bombs.
Very Sherry on the nose, with varnished wood and red fruit. Beautiful roundness. Very fruity on the palate, with muscat grapes, redcurrants and red fruit. Finish with meaty notes, mushrooms and coffee. Score : 87


Auchroisk 2010 100 Proof #12 13 yo : 1st Fill Oloroso Sherry Butts, at the risk of being boring. It's true that they make a lot of them, but with a 13 year old, it's tempting.
Very well developed Sherry, crushed raspberries, redcurrants and red grapes, woody notes. The palate is a little pale, but not bad, hints of strawberry, smoked ham. Finish a little short, chocolate, coffee, bark. Score: 86


Miltonduff 2011 100 Proof #14 12 yo : And finally this one. Still aged in 1st Fill Oloroso Sherry Butts, you don't change a winning team.
A little woody smoke, intense red fruit, redcurrant and raspberry purée. On the palate, very decent, still very Sherry, cherries, blackberries, blueberries. Well-crafted, long finish, red fruit coulis. Score: 87


What I gain from it : 
  • The quality is variable, and I would even say that sometimes you get the impression that the distillery has seized the opportunity to get rid of superfluous casks. In any case, it's never really bad, the power makes up for the flaws, and it's much more often a success than a failure. 

 

  • It's true that Sherry is an important selling point. It has its qualities and its faults. Those who like Sherry Bombs will be well served. Others may complain that some bottlings are too Sherry, and that you can't smell anything of the distillate. Both will be right, but it has to be said that the products on offer are very varied, and there's something for everyone. The range can't just be summed up as Sherry, there are lots of other things.

  


  • Some of the bottlings are really successful. Sometimes, it's because the distillery is very good, and you can feel it, so I'm thinking of the two Macallans, which are certainly the two best bottlings in the range apart from the Exceptional Casks (and still!), the Ben Nevis and the Orkney, which are really well done. Bunnahabhain #7, Ardmore #4, Linkwood #19 and Glen Ord #22 are also fine. Other times, it's because the maturation has worked well, in this case I'm thinking of the Miltonduff #14, the Glenrothes #6, and all the Exceptional Casks. Unfortunately, the latter are much more expensive.

 
  • As far as discovering new distilleries is concerned, yes, there are some interesting opportunities. But it has to be said that, most of the time, the Sherry casks make it impossible to detect the precise character of the distillate. I wonder if this isn't because, quite simply, these lesser-known distilleries have little character. Is it better to coat them in Sherry, or let them flourish? I don't have an answer to that question. But I do note that the very well-known distilleries remain very good whatever the ageing.



  • My ratings are relatively consistent, although the bottlings are often very different, and leave mixed reviews. That's because, while almost all bottlings have their faults, they also have their qualities. And, with such a high alcohol content, the finish is always quite powerful and long. This gives some bottlings a chance to catch up. 

 
Conclusion : 
I would advise anyone interested in this range to find out more beforehand. Read some of the consumer reviews and perhaps taste it if you get the chance. Some of the very Sherry bottlings may not be to your taste. On the other hand, there are also some nuggets, and then you have to hurry to buy one before it sells out.


In any case, I recommend leaving the bottle to rest for a few weeks after opening. Sometimes the casks leave too strong an influence, but once the whisky has had time to breathe, the balance settles. This is true of any bottling, but particularly of these.

On the whole, it's an interesting range, with powerful products at low prices, but you shouldn't limit yourself to that. They don't have the subtlety and length on the palate of a Single Cask, so it doesn't replace them, it's just a new type of product.


Personally, I'm very happy to own certain bottles, but on the other hand, I have my doubts. They're rustic and friendly bottlings, sometimes very seductive, but their power means you can't drink them in every situation. And that's my problem. When I feel like drinking an uncomplicated whisky, without spending hours on it, I prefer it to be lower in alcohol. And when I want to linger over a whisky, to enjoy discovering all its nuances, I prefer a Single Cask.


The 100 Proof range therefore offers some nice surprises at an unbeatable price, and an opportunity to discover some distilleries, but it is also too strong for an entry dram or a daily dram, and not subtle enough to compete with most single casks. It has its qualities, and its limitations.

 
That's why the price doesn't seem so cheap to me. It's cheap, of course, but the Exceptional Cask sub-range is less advantageous, and you can sometimes find Single Casks at almost the same price. People say they're cheap because they're compared to Single Casks, but that's not the point. Most of them are clearly not as good. It has character and strength, but not subtlety.


The fact remains that, with this range, Signatory has broken down a wall and made certain products more accessible - a small upheaval in the world of whisky.