Wednesday, 30 June 2021

Line Up #3 : Talisker, an exploration

29 June 2021. 
 
 

 
 
A bit of history. (those who are familiar with it can skip this part)
It was in 1829 that the two McAskill brothers, natives of the Isle of Skye, acquired the land at Talisker in Carbost in order to build a distillery. At the time, whisky was not held in high esteem, and the Reverend of the local parish, Roderick McLeod, delivered many sermons condemning the venture, arguing that the building of the distillery would bring an "immense curse" on the island.
The least we can say is that he was wrong all along the line, because for a long time, the distillery was the only viable industry in the region, despite a rather chaotic start. It was declared bankrupt in 1866 and 1879. Each time, buyers bought it for half its original value, so that by the end the site was worth just a few hundred pounds. Fortunately, Robert Louis Stevenson praised it in one of his poems, 'The Scotsman's Return from Abroad': 'The king o'drinks as I conceive it, Talisker, Isla or Glenlivet'. I'm not sure about Glenlivet, but as for the rest, I salute the lucidity of the great Robert.
Thanks to this publicity, the distillery grew quite rapidly, and in 1892 it was valued at £25,000. Alexander Grigor Allan, who had owned the distillery since 1880, was also a tax attorney. This great gentleman joined forces with Thomas McKenzie, the owner of Dailuaine, and in 1900 had a jetty built to facilitate the transport of barley and whisky casks, which had previously been very dangerous. Construction of the jetty had been prevented for decades by the Reverend McLeod, who had meanwhile become the island's governor. Fortunately, he had the good sense to die, which suddenly made it easier to proceed with the work.
In 1916, the consortium that would later become Diageo bought the distillery. It was at this time that Talisker was included in the composition of the Black Label. In 1928, triple distillation was abandoned in favour of double distillation, which was quite rare at the time. In 1960, a fire destroyed the entire site, which was reopened in 1962 after extensive renovations, although the stills were rebuilt as they appeared to be.
The final stage of modernisation took place in 1972, when the malting floors were closed and a steam heating system was built for the ovens, which were also fuelled by peat of course. However, the wooden washbacks were retained, as was the famous system of serpentine condensers located outside the buildings, which allowed the whisky to cool more slowly, giving it its oily and fruity character.
Finally, in 1988, the 'Classic Single Malts' range was created, and Talisker was immediately included, with its recent 10 year old (previously the Single Malt had been sold in 8 year old or 12 year old versions). It was a huge success, and the distillery became the benchmark for island whisky outside Islay. The 10 Year Old was available everywhere at a very reasonable price. The range then expanded to include the many expressions available today, making it hard to resist.
At this point, the distillery receives 50,000 visitors a year, and the five stills produce a staggering 1,940,000 litres. But demand is hard to meet, and prices are soaring. Last I heard, the Master Distiller was a certain Mark Lochhead, and to be honest, I'm not worried about his future.
 
 
The Line Up Project. 
As I've just written (in the History section that you didn't read!), the available expressions of Talisker have become extremely numerous over the last fifteen years. We're going to start by sorting them out, so that we can focus only on the very essence of the brand. In other words, get rid of all those recent NAS that are of no interest, the Skye, Storm, Port Ruighe and other Select Reserve, They don't add anything special and aren't worth buying, in my humble opinion. On the other hand, I won't comment on the Neist Point and Dark Storm, as I haven't been able to taste them yet, but I remain wary. Also get rid of the 25 yo currently on the market, which is certainly very good, but far too expensive for what it is.
After this skimming, I'll try not only to establish the hallmarks, but also to draw up a profile of this distillery, to map it out precisely according to my standards. A lot has been said, and I'd like to make up my own opinion.

 
The Tasting. 
Talisker 10 yo :As far as I know, this expression is over forty years old today. And it has never disappointed. It's become an absolute classic. In fact, we should do a tribute to its anniversary or something.
The vanilla is smooth and delicate, with a touch of smoky peat. The two go very well together. Then the refreshing iodine rises, a breeze full of foam and kelp. It's the Atlantic sea air. I can feel the seawater splashing in my face, the salty hints in my nose, the waves shaking me. On the palate, the vanilla returns and mingles with an inviting peatiness, culminating in a lovely, slightly bitter and peppery finish. Score: 86
Talisker 2007 The Distillers Edition :Following on from the success of the 'Classic Single Malts', almost all the whiskies in the range have been enhanced with a vintage edition, The Distillers Edition, finished in wine casks. For Talisker, this will be Amoroso, a sweet, fruity sherry. Talisker has been releasing a vintage edition every year since 1997. I'm commenting on the edition released in 2017, mainly because it's the one I have, but I hear it's quite reputable.
I find a whisky as costal, iodised, vanilla-flavoured and with a touch of peat, but this time all this is softened by the Amoroso Sherry. Candied cherries, cranberries, strawberries and raspberries. On the palate, it's really smooth and creamy, very well balanced, with generous spices. More apricot, peach, maybe a hint of blackcurrant. And always the peat in the background, which comes through on the finish, which is quite long and strong. Score: 87
Talisker 18 yo :Over the years, the idea has taken hold that whisky should be aged and prestigious. Talisker followed suit, producing this 18-year-old in 2006, which did not disappoint.
I have the sensation that the distillery's hallmarks - iodine, sea foam and kelp - are fully present, but this time we're on a varnished wooden boat. It's creamy, with applesauce, cinnamon, apricots and raisins, vanilla milk, coffee cream and cloves. On the palate, quince jam, then pepper comes back, a touch of peat, heather, and a very long, earthy, charcoal finish, just the way we like it. Score: 88
Talisker 25 yo Natural Cask Strength 2009 :Until 2009, Talisker offered an annual 25-year-old cask strength. It's a real shame that this production has ceased.
I find that this is more of a torrent of fruits, even vegetables, apricots, quinces, pumpkin, butternut, it's woody of course, and monstrously well-balanced. Very light peat spices things up. A hint of vanilla after about ten minutes. And the iodine finally awakens. This nose is quite sublime, and in a way inimitable. Towards the end, the fruit returns, and it's really intense. On the palate, liquid silk, honey, still peppery, apricot, bushy. The finish is predictably never-ending, as we could have expected. Passion fruit, gooseberry, a bit acidic. Score: 91
Talisker 1985 The Maritime Edition 27 yo : Every year, a batch of Diageo Special Releases comes out, and a limited edition of Talisker is included. It's usually a very pleasant surprise. The 2013 edition, 27 years old, is the best Talisker I've ever tasted.
The nose is immediately fuller and very iodised. Otherwise, the profile is similar to the previous one, but it's softer, more honeyed, silky, with something spicy and tasty, holly, laurel. Heather earth, quince jelly, vanilla custard. The palate is really delicious, liquid honey, quite strongly peppery, on nectarine and apricots. The finish is endless, as it should be, in several waves. The shoreline on a northern beach. Score: 91
Talisker 15 yo Diageo Special Release 2019 :The 2019 edition of Diageo Special Release at Talisker has been particularly acclaimed. That's why every enthusiast should own a bottle.
I think you can really feel the sea breeze. It's back to basics, iodine, vanilla, light peat, heather. It's quite earthy, with soot and dead leaves. It's autumn. Initially sweet on the palate, then very peppery, with cloves, nutmeg and pepper. After a while it's quite warm. The finish is strong and very long, fruity and slightly smoky. Score: 90
Talisker 8 yo Special Release 2020 : Following the success of 8 yo Special Release 2018 (which was sold out, so I didn't have it this evening), the distillery's top brass came up with the idea of repeating the experiment, but this time with a juice aged in rum barrels. Praise gave way to scathing criticism.
I think the rum casks make all the difference, and bring a sweetness that is unusual in Talisker. That said, it goes quite well with the iodine. The earthy, limestone, chalky flavours add a nice complexity to the whole. On the palate, it's velvety and vanilla-like, followed by the famous pepper. This time it is tempered by a lovely sweetness, icing sugar and candied fruits. Mangrove and damp wood on the long finish. Score : 88
Talisker 57° North :Launched in 2008, this nearly cask strength whisky is no longer produced. Nevertheless, it remains a whisky to be tasted, as it is the only expression in the regular range above 50°.
The nose is fairly austere, with iodine, but above all heather, limestone and nothing much else. Light vanilla after the addition of water. On the palate, it's light at first, then very peppery, with a hell of a finish to wake the dead. Hazelnut. Score: 86
 
What I gain from it. 
  • No one will be surprised to learn that this is a whisky with a strong iodine content. Situated by the sea, the distillery somehow manages to retain all its hallmarks, especially the iodine and foam, rather than the tide, fish and kelp as in Bowmore. I find that this iodine character is more successful than that of Pulteney or Tobermory, and better developed than Caol Ila. With better balance. 
  • It's not just the iodine, it's also the limestone, and a brushy, prickly grass, holly, heather feel. It's hard to explain. The peat seems to me to be relatively light, quite smoky, around 16 to 22 ppm. It only serves as a support for the other flavours, and doesn't stand out too much. Here again, the key is to maintain a good balance, which I think is the secret of their success.
  • The oily, fruity flavour of Talisker is often neglected, yet it's what makes it so good. There's already the vanilla of the American casks, almost always used for ageing. It's quite pronounced, but by no means omnipresent. It goes well with quince and apricot (but it's never acidic like Isle of Jura), and with a little walnut and hazelnut. This goes very well with the iodine and peat, and makes this rather austere whisky very approachable. The older versions in particular are very fruity. 
  • The final distinctive feature is, of course, the famous peppery finish. Some of the expressions are quite spicy, but it's the pepper that really stands out. It's a bold choice that's been made here, and it's worked. Most people like this peppery finish, which is not only found in the 10-year-old, and it has become the distillery's trademark. 
In conclusion, Talisker is a very good distillery, with a profile that can be broken down into three major directions: iodine, fruit and pepper. Heather and peat are there to decorate the scene. But the strong point is the fine balance between these three trends, which are nevertheless contrasting and aggressive, at least for two of them.
On the other hand, I find that they rest a little on their laurels. They have the 10 year old, which is excellent, the Distillers Edition and the 18 year old, which form very appreciable top-of-the-range products, and the annual Special Releases to go for the experimental and/or the exceptional. And since they've been so successful, why change anything? They raise prices regularly, well above the rate of inflation, in order to increase their margins, and they wait quietly for retirement.. 
When was the last time they tried something truly new? An entry into the regular range that was really worthwhile? No, instead they prefer to release new NAS which, while not bad, are of little interest.
It's all a great shame, and although Talisker remains my favourite non-Islay island distillery, I regret this tendency to droning on, especially as the value for money is becoming less and less advantageous. More experience, more novelties, but above all a more visible dynamic that makes you want to drink, that's what they need. A ten-year-old in cask strength? A 16-year-old with a special finish, in dry white wine casks, for instance? Or a very young expression, at 50°, full of iodine? I don't know, but I'd like them to do something about it.
Some people will say that I'm wrong to complain, that they're already a very deserving reference, with irreproachable expressions, and I won't disagree with that either.

Saturday, 26 June 2021

Laphroaig Brodir

 
 
 
48°
Distillery : Laphroaig - Islay
Ex-Bourbon Barrels and Ruby Port Finish
Original Bottling 
Travel Retail Exclusive
Single Malt 
Launched in 2014
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured
Peated around 43 ppm
 
 
The story begins in 2012. The first Laphroaig Brodir was released in a limited edition of 2,000 bottles, indicating 13 years of age, and it quickly sold out. The following year, Laphroaig Cairdeas 2013 was announced as Port Wood Finish, and again it was a great success. As a result, in 2014, a new edition of Brodir was marketed, this time in NAS, and reserved for the travel trade. At first, each Batch was indicated on the bottle, Batch 1 in 2014, Batch 2 in 2015, but in the following years, they no longer bothered with these details and Brodir was released in bulk. It's still officially reserved for the travel trade, but you can easily find it just about everywhere, although it seems that production stopped in 2018. It's easy to guess what Brodir means in Old Norse, just think about a similar word in English.
 
 
 

Let's Taste It : 
It smells of damson. And red plums. Candied damsons. Amarena. Then coal, tyres and nails sweep in. Laphroaigish. Quickly followed by thick, mountain honey. Apricot jam. Rhubarb. Tobacco. Nice balance after a while, but it's quite sweet. The iodine gives it depth. Slight but discreet medicinal touch. Floral hints. A bit light on the palate. A pinch of fine salt, crushed fruits. Spices, not too strong. Paprika, turmeric. Lamb curry. Lignite. Quite a long, charcoal finish, spicy, with the fruits coming back up. Cola, stretto coffee.
 
In Short, 
An excellent expression of the Laphroaig profile, but tempered by a round, soft Port. It's a shame that it's being released in NAS, as you can feel that the juice lacks a little maturity on the palate. On the other hand, I don't think it's good value for money, especially as the recent release of the 10yo Sherry Oak Finish gives it a serious facelift, at a lower cost.
Score : 88 









                                          To Be Listened While Sipping :
   
                                          Nazareth - Morning Dew

Sunday, 20 June 2021

Elements of Islay 1998 Lp9 20 yo

 
 
 
54,3°
Distillery : Laphroaig - Islay
Ex-Pedro Ximénez Sherry Butt
Independent Bottling 
By Elixir Distillers
Limited Edition 
Single Cask
Bottled in 2018
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured, Cask Strength
Peated around 43 ppm
 
 
 
How can you hesitate when you get the chance to have a glass of this nectar? A Single Cask aged for twenty years in the same Sherry cask? Elixir Distillers has pulled out all the stops with this piece of choice. Only 714 bottles were produced, so this expression was not available for long.
 
 
 

Let's Taste It : 
Peat steeped in smoke, coaly, rocky, sticky. Soon enough, the red fruits make their way through, blackcurrants, raspberries, blackberries. No acidity, which is good. Then the sherry turns dark, earthy, tarry. A damp, sooty cesspool sheared by hints of exotic fruits, mangoes, maracudja, grenadine. With the addition of water, the peat comes out. Superb balance, really. Gravel, honeysuckle. Hazelnut on the palate, along with red fruits. Spices, but not strong, pepper, turmeric. Then a certain mellowness, like wine. Lignite, damsons, fuel oil, muscat grapes. After a while, it becomes warm, with nutmeg, thyme and a hint of cinnamon. Rather strong finish, peppery, long, damp wood, floral and vanilla touches. Liquorice. Coffee grounds. More fruits a few minutes later.
 
In Short, 
To say that I was not disappointed would be an understatement. The nose and finish are fantastic for any lover of Laphroaig. On the other hand, I found the palate to be a little short of the mark. All in all, this is an tremendous whisky, a must-have, despite the price.
Score : 91
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                          To Be Listened While Sipping :
   
                                          Eloy - Reflection of the Spheres Beyond

Tuesday, 15 June 2021

Line Up #2 : Bunnahabhain, an exploration

6 May 2021.
 
 

 
 
A bit of history. (those who are familiar with it can skip this part)
The distillery's imposing, austere building was erected in 1881. The architect who designed it was famous for having built many prisons, which is why it is often said to resemble one. But above all, it is a typical example of Victorian architecture, renowned for its severity.
The owner at the time was The Islay Distillery Company, formed in 1879 specifically to establish a new distillery on the island. The company was run by James Ford, James Watson Greenlees, and William A. Robertson, all of whom were well-known players in the spirits industry.
The site is located in the north-east corner of the island, which was initially sparsely populated. There was only one road linking the distillery to the rest of the world, but water sources were abundant, both the River Margadale and nearby Loch Staoisha.
The first distillation took place in October 1882, but full production was not achieved until 1883, at just over 1 million litres a year.
Following the recession of 1887, a new company was created, Highland Distillers, a conglomerate of The Islay Distillery Company and William Grant & C°. In addition to Bunnahabhain, this new company acquired Glenglassaugh, Tamdhu and Highland Park.
Until the 1960s, Bunnahabhain whisky was peaty, at least as much as Caol Ila and Lagavulin, that is 35 to 40 ppm. It began distilling a very lightly peated whisky (2 to 5 ppm), which would become the brand's hallmark, for use in the blends The Famous Grouse, Cutty Sark and later The Black Bottle. It was in 1963 that Bunnahabhain entered the modern world of whisky, doubling its production capacity to 2.5 million litres of alcohol a year. The number of stills was also doubled and 6 washbacks were built. However, on-site malting was abandoned.
It was only in the early 1970s that the distillery dared to release its first bottles of Single Malt. The famous 12-year-old dates from this period, and should logically have been released in 1975. In 1991, the distillery experimented again with the production of peated whisky, first with exceptional batches, mostly destined for independent bottlers, and then with expressions included in the regular range, such as Toiteach in 2008.
In 1999, Highlands Distillers was taken over by Erdrington Compagny, who then sold the distillery to Burn Stewart Distillers four years later. The latter, who also owned Tobermory and Deanston, decided to develop peated whisky production. Peat now accounts for 20% of the juice produced on site. They also had the good idea of raising the alcohol content of all the expressions to 46.3°, and above all to abandon cold filtration and caramel colouring. For me, this was a turning point in the history of the distillery, as these three measures began to be applied in 2010, making it a major player on the Isle of Islay, whereas until then it had been relegated to a secondary role.
In 2017, Burn Stewart was taken over by its own distributor, Distell, which fortunately did not change the current portfolio and instead developed new peaty products, such as Toiteach à Dhà. Today, the Master Blender is Julianne Fernandez and the Master Distiller is Stephen Woodcock, both under the supervision of Distillery Manager Andrew Brown. I hope that their only ambition is to maintain the current quality.

The Line Up Project. 
It's not just a question of discovering the Bunnahabhain profile, but of establishing its strengths and any weaknesses, in an enlightened cartography, so as to know where it stands and where it's heading. This is a distillery that has evolved considerably over the last few decades, and it would be a good idea to define its hallmarks so that it can continue to thrive over the long term.
Obviously, I don't have all the current expressions available. Toiteach, Darach Ur and Ceobanach, which ceased production between 2013 and 2017, are now difficult to find. Eirigh Na Greine and Cruach Mhona, published only for travel companies, are also hard to obtain. I'm still waiting to get hold of them. As for the 30-year-old, it's obviously the price that's the problem! I've also put aside the Moine, which seems to me to be a minor edition of little interest, and which I have neglected to repurchase. 
 
The Tasting.
Bunnahabhain Stiùireadair : I start with this NAS launched in 2017, and which was heavily criticised for fear that it would replace the 12 year old, despite a rather different profile.
I find here a Sherry counterbalanced by some bourbon casks it seems. Gingerbread. A hint of honey at times. Cane syrup, apricots. Apple crumble. Quite sweet. On the palate, honey and spices, marzipan. Pleasant plum finish. Score: 86
Bunnahabhain 12 yo  : This is followed by Bunnahabhain's best-known expression, the one that put it on the map and earned it its reputation, although it has changed a lot over time.
The Sherry is smooth, with a touch of fresh and salty iodine, heavy, slightly fermented fruits. On the palate, the red fruits stand out, with lovely spices and a hint of honey, it's mellow on the tongue. The finish is powerful and long. Score: 87
Bunnahabhain 18 yo  : Next up is the 18-year-old, which is a bit like the big brother of the previous one, with a similar profile but much more complex and nuanced.
The juice here is very round, with a hint of earth and honey. Lots of fruit: damsons, grapes, blackcurrants, blackberries and blueberries. On the palate, it's savoury, woody, earthy, but still very fruity, and the finish is very long. Very pleasant. Score : 89
Bunnahabhain XXV 25 yo : Things are starting to get interesting with this 25-year-old, whose profile is a little more dominated by bourbon than the previous two.
I find here a real breadth of nose, fruits, wood, and a touch of bourbon. Vanilla, mirabelle plum. Rum baba, amarena, dried raisins. Mountain honey, pine cones. Iodine. Delicate palate, almond, chocolate-covered pear, a few spices. Pastry cream. Very long finish, just the right amount of aggression, woody, liquorice, damson, blackcurrant. Endless. Juniper. Score : 91  
Bunnahabhain 1987 Archives The Fishes of Samoa 25 yo :This is truly sublime. Archives is one of my favourite bottlers, and this is a single cask in cask strength, so the conditions are just right to create something absolutely exceptional.
And I find here a stream of very fruity, deep sherry, some peanuts, fruits from the sun, winey hints and coffee on the palate, red fruits to burst your belly, a finish as long as it is delicious, on earth, wine, charcoal and dried fruits. Divine. Score: 92
Bunnahabhain An Cladach : The fall will be harder, with this NAS available for the travel trade, whose alcohol content is 50°, which is why I choose to taste it after the first five.
I find there a hint of sherry, vinous grapes and blackcurrants. The palate is spicy but suave on the tip of the tongue, with a hint of lavender honey. The finish is aggressive and a bit short, but not bad, with wood and blueberry. Still, a hard blow. Score: 83   
Bunnahabhain Toiteach a Dhà :We enter the peaty world with this expression that follows the Toiteach and blends with Sherry.
I find here a lovely smoky peat wrapped in a fairly deep Sherry. Nice balance between fruits and smoke. Blackcurrant, amarena. The palate follows the same pattern, peat and Sherry, lots of spices, tyre, coal, and a good, aggressive, long finish, earthy, caramel, ash. Score: 86
Bunnahabhain Moine 2011 The Ultimate Cask Strength 6 yo : The best quality Bunnahabhain peat is available from independent bottlers. The Ultimate collection regularly offers single cask expressions at very attractive prices. The bottles are very old school, and the inside is pure Peat Bomb, for enthusiasts only.
There's vanilla and lemon, and it's mellow, like white wine. As it's the end of the bottle, you can't really smell the peat any more. With the addition of water, it comes back, thick and ashy. The influence of bourbon remains strong. Yellow plum, greengage. On the palate, very pleasant vanilla, peat in the background, then spices. The finish is quite violent and very good, long and woody. Score: 88
Bunnahabhain Staoisha 2014 The Ultimate Cask Strength 5 yo : Peated Bunnahabhain can be divided into two groups, the Moine and the Staoisha. The Staoisha is made with water from Loch Staoisha, as the name suggests.
I found there a similar profile to the previous one, perhaps slightly more mineral. The peat is very well balanced with vanilla and yellow plum. On the palate, however, I don't think it's as good, as smooth and suave. You can feel the influence of bourbon, with vanilla and yellow plum. Very pleasant finish, but again not as strong, not as long. Score: 87
 
What I gain from it. 
  • The distillate is, of course, dominated by Sherry. Like Glendronach and Glenfarclas, the distillery's name is inevitably associated with Sherry cask ageing.
  • The distillery's hallmarks are therefore everything to do with Sherry, but also a rocky, charcoal and salty iodine imprint that is immediately recognisable. The very light, almost undetectable peat gives it a certain depth. It adds an austerity, but also a depth and complexity that enriches and sublimates the Sherry. 
  • There's something that happens around 25 years of ageing, between the distillate and the Sherry. Something that I haven't experienced elsewhere, and which produces absolutely fabulous things. It's as simple as an equation: Bunnahabhain + Sherry + 25 years = happiness.
  • However, the Core Range is still a great choice. The 12-year-old and the 18-year-old are classics that should be in every self-respecting whisky cellar. The Toiteach a Dhà and the Stiùireadair are more than adequate for NAS.
  • On the other hand, the peaty side of Bunnahabhain is less interesting. It's good, but not as good as the great classics of the genre. Apart from a few independent bottlings, the enlightened connoisseur will soon find better elsewhere. The peat is certainly specific (very smoky, and very maritime, with salt and fish), but not very seductive. It's harsh and austere. The island's great peaty expressions are fruitier and more nuanced. On this point, Bunnahabhain is still far from competitive.   
In conclusion, this distillery is for my taste one of the best in the current landscape, and certainly the best in the field of very little/no peat (0 to 5 ppm). It has more character than Glendronach or Hazelburn, and is more approachable than Tobermory. Bruichladdich does very nice things, but the value for money is less interesting, and it's not as deep.
Many old whisky lovers say they miss the old Bunnahabhain, which produced a cleaner, less dirty and iodised distillate. I don't agree with this analysis at all. On the contrary, by abandoning colouring and cold filtration, it has become a great distillery, with a recognisable character and a real identity. It is now supplanting many non-peated distilleries, which are often too smooth, or even consensual.
When it comes to peat, on the other hand, they really have to do better, because the competition is fierce. An Islay distillery cannot be satisfied with producing such a simple distillate. The Toiteach à Dhà is not bad, but they need to go further by launching an aged peaty spirit (8 years?), very salty and iodised, which could rival the Port Charlotte 10 year old, or at least the Caol Ila 12 year old.
Bunnahabhain still has work to do to become as remarkable in all its experiments, as Tobermory, which makes a magnificent Ledaig, or Springbank, Bruichladdich. But the good news is that she's not that far away, and it could happen in the next few years.   

Sunday, 13 June 2021

Octomore 2012 09.3 Diàlogos 5 yo

 
 
 
62,9°
Distillery : Bruichladdich - Islay 
1st Fill American, 3d Fill Virgin, 2d Fill Rivesaltes, 2d Fill Syrah and 2d Fill Bourbon Casks 
Original Bottling 
Limited Edition 
Single Malt 
Bottled in 2018
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured, Cask Strength
Peated around 133 ppm



The 3rd version of Octomore's 9th Batch was produced from Concerto barley grown on Islay, at Octomore Farm, in the plot known as Irene's Field. It was then aged for 5 years in 134 casks of five different types, Bourbon and American Whisky, as well as virgin and French wine casks. This gave a total of 18,000 bottles which are now sold out. In contrast to the 08.3, the ppm is relatively low for an Octomore.
 
 
 

Let's Taste It : 
A very clean, almost sweet bourbon. Vanilla and plum, icing sugar. Occasional hints of wine, more red than white. Wood leaves and quince jam. Comice pear and green tomatoes. Slight acidity, more lingonberry than lemon. Full-bodied iodine. Sandy earth. Sticky peat. Stale water. Almond paste, hint of aniseed. Varnished mahogany. A touch of sweetness, candied fruit, sparkling water. Initially very sweet on the palate, then strong spices, chilli, pepper, cumin. Yellow plum. The finish is strong but not too much, long, with the peppers coming through, then honey, gooseberries, hazelnut. After a minute, star anise, cinnamon.
 
In Short, 
It's still a very high level, but I found this version rather soft. The peat is light and very drinkable. It's still an excellent product, but if you're going to drink Octomore, you might as well try another. This one is rather a false tough, it wants to play hardball, but it's rather tender. That said, the finish is really very nice. The price is, of course, excessive.
Score : 90
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
                                          To Be Listened While Sipping :
  
                                          Queens of the Stone Age - I Appear Missing

Friday, 11 June 2021

Lagavulin 19 yo Feis Ile 2019

 
 
 
53,8°
Distillery : Lagavulin - Islay
Sherry Treated American Oak Casks
Original Bottling 
Limited Edition
Single Malt 
Bottled in 2019
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured, Cask Strength
Peated around 38 ppm
 
 
 
Every year, most Islay distilleries feel obliged to release an original bottling for Feis Ile. This gives enthusiasts the opportunity to queue up on the site the day before to try and get a bottle at a high price. Lagavulin is no exception to the rule, and here we have a whisky aged in American sherry-treated casks, produced in 6,000 bottles. Many people have tried to find out exactly what a sherry-treated cask is, to no avail.




Let's Taste It : 
Iodine and loamy earth. A fairly spicy sherry, but the red fruits have difficulty asserting themselves. More quinces, pumpkin and butternut. A dash of vanilla. Thick, stringy smoke. Fresh wind, tide, seaweed. We're in the bayou, with marshy hints on a summer's day. Pastry cream. Gunflint. Wisps of thick peat. On the palate, vanilla éclair, spices, paprika, ginger. Very light red fruits mixed with apricot and fig. Caramel that sticks to the pan, wood leaf. Yellow plum. Very long finish, with notes of straw, hay, sand in the sun, a pinch of coarse salt, cola, pistachios and almonds, dried corn. genoise, wheat cake. Chinese nougat. Candied lemon.
 
In Short, 
A fine balance between a discreet sherry and a very stable bourbon. It's original, and the distillery's hallmarks are very present. In my short experience, this is the best bottling I've tasted from this distillery.
Score : 91
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                          To Be Listened While Sipping :
   
                                           Pixies - Gouge Away

Friday, 4 June 2021

Ardmore 2009 Signatory Vintage Selected by Les Grands Alambics 10 yo

 
 
 
46°
Distillery : Ardmore - Speyside
Ex-Islay Casks
Independent Bottling 
By Signatory Vintage
Limited Edition 
Single Cask
Bottled in 2019
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured
Peated around 14 ppm
 
 
 
Selected by Les Grands Alambics from the casks kept by Signatory Vintage, this Ardmore bottling aged in an Islay cask was released in a limited edition of only 150 bottles.
 
 
 

Let's Taste It : 
Fine granitic peat, slightly dusty. Vanilla pastry cream. Wisps of smoke. Lemony genoise. Gradually, the peat and smoke become thicker, without ceasing to be creamy. A dollop of chantilly. Gravel. Soft, velvety palate, both light and intense, very light spices, just a fizz, green apple, it's suave. Olive oil. Quite a long finish, on conifers, pine cones, fir needles, eucalyptus. It's woody, liquorice, cola, hazelnut. A hint of bitterness. Rhubarb.
 
In Short, 
A very fine bottling, whose character is enhanced by ageing in an Islay cask. Unfortunately, it is now sold out, which is a shame, as the price was quite attractive.
Score : 87
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                          To Be Listened While Sipping :
  
                                          Kansas - Dust in the Wind