2 February 2022.
The Line Up Project
This tasting follows on from the previous one, Line Up #7 : Highland Park, an exploration, where I came to the conclusion that most of Highland Park's original bottlings aren't really worth buying. So I went looking for independent bottlings. This distillery has a profile that appeals to me, with a good dose of iodine, heather, light peat, honey, exotic fruits, character - in short, everything you need. Unfortunately, it doesn't always offer the best value for money, and the cold filtration process erases its most interesting characteristics. With independent bottlers, there is no cold filtration, no reduction to 40° alcohol, and sometimes peat is quite present, much to my delight. We'll see what different profiles we can find, and if Highland Park becomes less frustrating with the big names in the trade.
Meanwhile, I'm continuing to explore the regular range, in the hope of finally finding an original bottling that will suit my taste buds.
The Tasting
Highland Park 12 yo Viking Honour :I still haven't finished my bottle of 12 year old, so this is an excellent opportunity to come back to it, and it's an honest Entry Dram. That said, I don't think I'll be buying another.
The nose is pleasant but a little watery. Iodine, heather, vanilla, exotic fruits. Tidal, foamy. Dried pineapple, citrus. A hint of peat in the background. On the palate, light, spicy, fruity, balanced, a little earthy, nutmeg, tobacco, hazelnut. Short but pleasant finish, charcoal and earth. Score: 84
Highland Park 1966 The Whisky Fair 38 yo : A piece of history with this anthology bottled by Duncan Taylor in 2005. It reveals the old profile of the distillery, only slightly different. Above all, everything is much more intense and balanced. A real little paradise.
Candied pineapple, fresh vanilla. Honey toast. All supported by iodine. Papaya, prickly pears. Earthy peat. Iced lemon. Suave, soft, slightly watery palate, rosewater, light spices, cascade of fruits. Very long, powerful finish, cola, paprika, nutmeg, sandalwood. Score: 90
Highland Park Dragon Legend : I'm giving it a go with a sample of this new NAS, released in 2017, which I've heard good things about. It's said to be a little more peaty and robust than the average among the distillery's original bottlings. Well, I won't hold the suspense any longer, it's a disappointment.
A little more peat, but very pleasant fruits. Lemon pulp, Armenian paper, dried banana, iodine. Genoise. A little sweet. Still fruity on the palate, lemon and vanilla, light spices, full-bodied. Strong finish, quite long, but a little bland. Water ice. Score: 84Orkney Islands 2002 Berry Bros. & Rudd 15 yo : This bottle is one of my favourites. It's been with me for three years, and now I'm drinking the last drops. I particularly like the characteristic peat from Hobbister Moor, which is very present here.
The nose is very ashy and peaty; you're wading through the peatland and rolling around in the soot. All this with a frank iodine note, slightly damp earth, humus, tall grass and heather. A shade of fruits. Complex, woody and spicy on the palate, with a hint of aniseed and honeysuckle. Powerful, long finish, heather, cola, wine lees, charcoal. Score : 91
Orkney 2000 Thompson Bros. 19 yo : The Thompson brothers are very well-known independent bottlers these days. I haven't heard anyone say anything bad about them. With a 19 year old, you should be delighted.
It's fruity, lemon, pineapple, papaya, a little iodine, fresh, tidal, foamy. A touch of peat and a medicinal touch. The palate is a little spicier, with vanilla, prickly pear and coconut. The finish is long and powerful, spicy, wine lees, chestnut cream, banana. Score: 90
Highland Park 2006 Connoiseurs Choice Cask Strength 14 yo : Gordon & MacPhail is another very reputable bottler, the Connoiseurs Choice range is one of their best, so I'm hoping for something satisfying.
Sweet, slightly macerated fruits, ethereal iodine, mountain honey. Suave on the palate, then spices, honeyed vanilla. Quite a long finish, not quite powerful, cola, earth. Score: 88
The Druids 2009 Orkney Spirit III 9 yo : Michel Reick is an absolute reference when it comes to independent bottlings in Germany. He alone owns 4 trading companies. He has also launched a series of 5 famous Orkney Spirits, all from Highland Park of course. This is the third.
First fruits, iodine and a cloud of dry peat. Pineapple, birch bark, date. With the addition of water, the peat expands, becoming smoky, iodised, earthy and ashy. On the palate, sweet spices, a suave woodiness and some fruits. The finish is rather violent but deep, with cola, earth and heather. Foresty. Score: 89
Highland Park Cask Strength Release N°2 : Finally, a copy of the distillery's very recent Cask Strength edition, an original bottling. Needless to say, having already been disappointed, I hesitated to buy it.
A touch of sherry, pine needles, peat and heather. Ferns, humus, dried fruits. Hazelnuts, iodine, sand and dry earth. Quince, apricot, rhubarb and ginger on the palate. Not so light spices. Quite a long finish, with forest, charcoal, earth and saffron. Score : 89
What I gain from it
- First of all, Alleluyah, I've found an original bottling to my taste! The Highland Park Cask Strength Release N°2 is perfect, warm, woody, with good peat and a light touch of Sherry. The price is reasonable and the character is very present. I'd definitely recommend it.
- On the other hand, the rest of the official range still doesn't fulfil my specifications. Too light on the palate, short finish, not enough alcohol, high price - in short, disappointing, despite a nose that's still enticing.
- The independent bottlers offer something much more exciting. Unfortunately the price is there, you have to make sacrifices when you like it. Gordon & MacPhail disappointed me a little, but I liked all the others. I particularly recommend Berry Bros. & Rudd and Thompson Bros., the two best for marketing Highland Park, it seems.
- Even with the independents, the profile remains very consistent and easily recognisable. Exotic fruits combined with vanilla and lemon, light but very distinctive peat, very ashy and earthy, honey, heather, spices that add character, and a fine, fairly charred finish. When Sherry casks are used, it is to give body to the whole, with some dried fruit. There's none of that overpowering Sherry that wouldn't suit the subtlety of the distillery's flavours.
The surroundings of the distillery
Conclusion
Is it possible to find what you're looking for in Highland Park? Yes, but you need to be patient. When it comes to original bottlings, only the Cask Strength Release will please you. When it comes to independent bottlings, you also have to be careful. Some are too expensive for what they are, while others are a little disappointing. Ask around and, if possible, taste before you buy. But don't be discouraged, because with a bit of luck, you'll be able to find the profile that suits you and that will delight your evenings.
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