15 Décember 2023.
The Line Up Concept.
A new journey into Bunnahabhain territory, but this time devoted solely to peated bottlings. Bunnahabhain originally produced peated whisky, like all the Islay distilleries. It was only in 1963 that the distillery's directors decided to stop working with peat, in order to sell themselves better to the Blends. Bruichladdich took the same decision around the same time. The aim was to enter the modern world of whisky, to be competitive, and to do that they had to produce a lot, and a distillate that would sell easily, so it had to be unpeated. So, for over thirty years, Bunnahabhain produced whisky with very little peat (2 to 5 ppm). It was only in 1997 that production of peated whisky resumed. At first, a few casks were handed over to independent bottlers, followed by original bottlings in limited editions, and finally into the Core Range. Today, peated whisky accounts for around a quarter of Bunnahabhain's annual production, which is quite a lot, given that a large proportion of production goes into blends. A quarter of the total production must be almost half of the single malt production.
What is the profile of Bunnahabhain peat? Is it strongly iodised, like its neighbour Caol Ila? Or more herbaceous, like Ardbeg? Does it have exotic fruit notes, like Port Charlotte, or a strong minerality, like Kilchoman? Is it medicinal, like Laphroaig, or marshy, like Lagavulin? Is it light and balanced, like Bowmore, or powerful, like Octomore? Does it have an identity? And now that it has been resurrected some 25 years ago, does it have a role to play on Islay, where the competition is fierce? These are just some of the questions I'll be seeking to answer during this tasting, which I've set out to be representative. With an expression of the Core Range, some limited editions, and independent bottlings with varying maturities. The aim is to pinpoint the particularities of Bunnahabhain peat, to get to know it better, and to establish a profile.
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The Tasting.
Bunnahabhain Toiteach a Dhà :It's an expression that appeared in 2018, following on from the first Toiteach, which has now been discontinued. Today, it's the Core Range's benchmark for peat.
Nice intense peat, but not much else. Gtanulous, charcoaled. Soot, molasses. On the palate, thick peat, black tea, chestnut juice, some spices. Long finish, on truffles and chocolate. Score : 86
Bunnahabhain Cruach-Mhòna :This was originally a limited edition launched in 2010 and reserved for Travel Retail. It is now rarely found, but it is not discontinued.
Fairly sweet on the nose, but peaty nonetheless. Barley sugar, vergeoise. Thick smoke. Honey, creamy palate, almost pastry-like, but the peat is there. Lively spices. Long, fairly explosive finish, with nutmeg and cumin. Very slight bitterness. Score : 86
Elements of Islay 2004 Ma3 15 yo : The Elements of Islay range calls the peaty expressions from Bunnahabhain Margadale. This one is the 3rd and last in the series.
Beautiful granitic peat with a hint of caramel. Limestone and iodine, quartz. Some white fruits. Subtle iodine. On the palate, honey and dates, flambéed bananas. Very long, perfectly mastered finish. Score : 88
Bunnahabhain 2004 Limited Release Moine Brandy Finish 12 yo : The distillery regularly releases Limited Releases, some of which are peaty. In this case, they are sometimes referred to as "Moine". This is the case here, with an expression finished in Brandy.
Honey, iodine and floral notes. Discreet peat. Soft and sweet on the palate, marzipan, candied banana. Long, beautiful, powerful finish, shortbread biscuits. Score : 87
Bunnahabhain 2013 Black Corbie 5 yo :Peaty Bunnahabhains are often sold young, to retain all its power. Here, we see an Amarone finish, which lessens the impact of the peat. Perhaps this is a bit contradictory?
Ginger and chocolate, coffee, very balanced peat. On the palate, greengages, dates, thick caramel, spices and cereals. Powerful, iodised finish, very long. Cola, dry earth, chestnuts. Score : 88
Bunnahabhain 2008 Limited Release Moine Bordeaux Red Wine Cask Matured 9 yo :After Amarone and Brandy, here's a red wine finish, still as part of Limited Releases.
A bit vinous, but with good smoke, red fruits, blackberries, blueberries, liquorice. The palate is similar, with muscat grapes, blackcurrants, damp earth and fine spices. Very fine finish, long and syrupy, dragon fruit, liquorice, black radish. Score : 88
Bunnahabhain 2011 Cask Strength Collection La Maison du Whisky Exclusive Bottling 6 yo : Signatory Vintage often releases young bottlings of peated Bunnahabhain, sometimes with the help of La Maison du Whisky, as is the case here.
Very mineral on the nose, but also sweet, with hints of marzipan and white fruits. Candied vanilla. Balanced smokiness. Pleasant palate, banana and yellow plum, balanced spices. Powerful vanilla and coconut finish. Score : 89
Bunnahabhain 2014 Cask Strength Collection 5 yo :Another example of a peated Bunnahabhain launched by Signatory Vintage, this time under the name Staoisha, but that doesn't change much. It was aged in a Sherry Butt.
Candied vanilla and mineral peat, melted white chocolate, a pinch of salt. Pastry cream and iodine. Quite a delicacy on the palate, almond cream, but the spices are strong. Long, pleasant finish, with liquorice and blueberries. Score : 88
What I gain from it.
- Bunnahabhain peat is mineral by nature, similar to Kilchoman. It is also costal, but not excessively so, with a touch of iodine and salt. Which is more or less reminiscent of Bowmore. It's not an ultra-powerful peat like those from Ardbeg, Octomore or Laphroaig, nor very nuanced like those from Port Charlotte or Lagavulin. And if there's any iodine, it's much less than in Caol Ila.
- So it's a peat with its own personality, not wildly original, but at least recognisable. It's a fairly straightforward peat, not very subtle, but not so violent either. Mineral and iodised, relatively mild compared to some Islays.
- Given the lack of subtlety, distillers often try original finishes, such as wine, Brandy or Amarone, to give some nuance, but this is not always successful. In my humble opinion, this peat is never as good as when it is natural, with a simple ageing in Bourbon casks. Or with a nice Sherry cask to give it some fruitiness.
- In original bottlings, the peated Bunnahabhains are good without being exceptional, and sometimes too expensive. I recommend independent bottlings, especially from Signatory Vintage, who apparently have access to the best casks.
Conclusion.
Bunnahabhain's peat is not the best on Islay. This seems normal, as it has only been around again for thirty years, whereas the other distilleries have been using it for centuries. When they abandoned peat in 1963, a certain know-how was lost, at least in part, and it will be a long time before it is fully recovered. However, it's a very good peat. I find it quite similar to the Kilchoman peat, only more successful, and not too far from the young Bowmore peat.
In order to progress, the distillery will have to release older peated juices, more than fifteen years old, with a maturation that is not too complex and that highlights the peat. I don't think this has been done yet. Peaty Bunnahabhains need to acquire their letters of nobility, which is not yet the case, in my humble opinion. They need to earn that reputation they lack, and they have the ability to do so, but more work is needed. For the moment, Bunnahabhain is still better without the peat.
All photos were taken on the distillery site.
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