Saturday, 2 August 2025

Line Up #30 : Signatory Vintage, the 100 Proof range

16 January 2025. 
 

A bit of History :  
Signatory Vintage is a very well-known independent bottler. It was founded in 1988 by Andrew Symington and his brother Brian. A the beginning they wanted to get a signature of a celebrity on each bottle, hence the name Signatory Vintage. Success came quickly, thanks in particular to the company's principles: no colouring agents, no cold filtration, which was not necessarily uncommon among independent bottlers, but they didn't communicate much about it, whereas it was a basic principle at Signatory, and it was immediately promoted.
 
                                                 Andrew Symington
 
With the Cask Strength Collection, with its highly recognisable design, they added a principle: all their bottlings in this range were necessarily bottled as Cask Strength. Here too, it was a convincing selling point, and success followed.
 
 
In 2018, they celebrated the company's 30th anniversary with a series of landmark bottlings, which put them firmly in the ranks of the great bottlers. It was thought at the time that they had reached the top and that they couldn't surprise anyone any more. But that was without counting on the team's boundless creativity.

 
In January 2024, the 100 Proof range was launched. The idea was to launch bottlings at 100° Proof, i.e. 57.1°, so not quite Cask Strength, but still very powerful, vintage and aged, at a very attractive price. These are not single casks, but blends of several casks, making limited editions of 1,000 or 2,000 bottles most of the time. At first, it didn't cause much of a stir. But when several bottlings followed one another, the public started to take an interest.
 
Now, a year and a half later, this range has become a must-have in the whisky world. There are several sub-ranges, Exceptional Cask, US 100 Proof, and 100 Proof Single Grain. This variety shows that it is a total success, with low prices attracting the public, and the character of the bottlings convincing.
 
The Line Up Concept :  
In our time, people say there's a shortage of stock. But that's not quite true. The lack of stock concerns the very famous distilleries, but most distilleries have plenty of stock. The proof is in this range, which totals around 70 bottlings in just 18 months. Many distilleries are delighted to get rid of their surplus through this range.
 
 
It is also said that prices are rising. But if prices are going up, it's also because the public's demands are increasing. People want Single Cask, and that's expensive and hard to find, because you need good casks and a fairly long maturation period. With the 100 Proof range, there are no single casks, maturation is generally short, and the casks are often refilled, which keeps costs relatively low. 

 
In addition to the fact that we are witnessing a re-democratisation of quality whisky, which is a revolution in the world of whisky, because in recent years we have tended to go in the direction of the elitist, this range allows us to discover or rediscover little-known, ignored distilleries in the shadow of the big names. It's an exploration of Scotland that you can do, and comparing the different distilleries becomes a game.
 

But precisely, is this increasingly famous range fulfilling its mission? Does it manage to combine a low price with a certain quality? Does it allow people to discover the character of lesser-known distilleries? In short, the success is undeniable, but does it reflect a genuine success, or simply a possible passing fad, more or less limited to curiosity? One of the problems raised by the public is that there are too many Sherry casks being bottled, and that the Sherry is often too overpowering, obscuring the identity of the distillery. Is this true?


That's what we're going to see with this Line Up. I've collected 28 samples from the range, which is almost half. I think it's fair to say it's representative. I tasted them once before, individually, but now I'm tasting them all again together, and yes, it was difficult. But it gave me an overview of the whole range, and helped me to find the answers to all my questions. 


The Tasting :            
Speyside (M) 100 Proof #25 13 yo : Officially, we don't know what it is, but in fact it's a Macallan, and to find a 13-year-old Macallan at this price, you have to get up early! Besides, it sold out a long time ago.
A very fine, purely Macallan nose, full of melting toffee, walnuts and chestnuts coated in cinnamon. The finish is powerful and languorous, but the palate is a little too woody and bitter. Score: 88
 
Speyside (M) 2011 100 Proof #29 13 yo : It's another Macallan that's barely hiding, the same age, but this time only from 1st Fill Oloroso casks, a real class act. A pure heresy on the current whisky market, much to our delight.
It has much in common with its predecessor, but is much more balanced and varied, more subtle, less bitter, pleasant on the palate, long and deep finish, chocolate, chestnuts, apple crumble. Score: 88
 
 
Orkney (HP) 2010 100 Proof #30 14 yo : There are 4 Orkney's in the range, all of them Highland Park of course. They are all the same age, 14 years, but this is the only one to have aged only in 1st Fill Oloroso Sherry Butt casks.
A pure Highland Park nose, with heather, honey, some cereals, iodine, and very light peat, juicy white fruit. Very smooth on the palate, with a pleasant finish that's not too strong. Score: 88
 

Secret Orkney 2010 100 Proof #15 14 yo : This Highland Park is a blend of 1st Fill Oloroso Sherry Butt and Bourbon Hogshead.
More peat and minerality, but otherwise it's still the same and all the better for it, heather, honey, white fruit, iodine, creosote. Very pleasant palate, fruity and woody, with a much more powerful finish than its predecessor. Score: 88


Glenrothes 2015 100 Proof #6 9 yo : Here's a distillery that's unfairly little known and that has been featured twice in the range. Perhaps this is the opportunity to give it back its rightful place.
Creamy nose, red fruit coulis, elegant and deep oak. Velvety on the palate, dates, beeswax, melted butter, red plums. Long, pleasant finish, liquorice, brown tobacco, cola, dried banana. Score : 87

 
Glenrothes 2014 100 Proof #20 10 yo : This one is slightly older than the previous one, otherwise the maturation is the same, in Oloroso Sherry casks.
The nose is woodier, airier and less expressive than the previous one. Cereals and nuts. Round and fruity on the palate, then saturated with spices, leading to a very powerful but not so long finish of wood, tobacco and caramel. Score: 87

 
Glentauchers 2012 100 Proof #8 11 yo : Another lesser-known distillery to do justice to, and for the occasion the casks are exclusively 1st Fill Oloroso Sherry.
Heady nose, nail varnish, red fruits, various cereals, wood crumbs. Spring freshness. Pleasant palate, wood and tobacco, spices, powerful and pleasant finish, liquorice and stuffed figs. Score: 87


Glentauchers 2012 100 Proof #18 12 yo : Same recipe as the previous one, only a year older. For the same result?
Caramel and chocolate on the nose, raisins, liquorice stick. Pleasant, velvety palate, dates and honey, long and powerful finish, tobacco and cola. Milk chocolate. Score : 87


Aultmore 2007 Exceptional Cask #1 17 yo : 17 years, only 1st Fill Oloroso Sherry Butts, it's part of the VIP section of the range, the Exceptional Cask series.
Wood and apple crumble, some red fruit, cinnamon, dates and sultanas. Fruity on the palate, quince and greengage, lively spices, powerful finish, dried figs, milk chocolate. Score : 88


Aultmore 2007 Exceptional Cask #5 17 yo : The same, but exactly the same, as the previous one, so much so that there's nothing to differentiate them apart from the edition number.
The nose is more red fruit, redcurrants, raspberries. Woody depth, warm caramel, figs. A suave note that provokes complexity, dates and orange jam. On the palate, velvety dates, full-bodied fruit, well-mastered spices, long, powerful finish, tobacco, chocolate. Score : 88


Ben Nevis 2015 100 Proof #5 8 yo : Ben Nevis is undoubtedly the most represented distillery in the range, with no fewer than 5 bottlings. This one is a blend of 1st Fill & 2d Fill Oloroso Sherry Butts.
Mineral and peaty notes, a hint of icing sugar, with red fruits in the background. Fresh iodine. On the palate, red fruit purée, tomato soup. Powerful and racy finish, bark, chocolate. Score: 87


Ben Nevis 2019 100 Proof #1 4 yo : The very first bottling in the range, it's very young, 4 years old, heavily peated, with only Refill Oloroso Sherry casks.
Beautiful country peat, typical of the distillery, full of butter, with a tiny hint of iodine and vanilla. Mineral and salty notes. White fruit and honey on the palate. Long and racy finish with earthy, earthy undertones, limestone. Score: 87


Ben Nevis 2019 100 Proof #17 5 yo : The same maturation as the previous one, just a year older. That's 25% older, does it change anything?
The minerality and honey come together in perfect balance, with fairly light peat, vanilla butter, yellow plum juice and a hint of lemon zest. Interesting palate, fresh, oily. Fine spices. Long and robust finish, tobacco, bark, cola, damp wood, chocolate. Score: 87


Ardmore 2010 100 Proof #4 13 yo : A 13-year-old Ardmore aged in Sherry casks is a tempting choice, especially at this price.
Iodised fullness with a peaty base, rare fruit, fine minerality. Drops of lemon. Velvety and citrusy palate, grapefruit and pineapple, full, violent finish, iodine, limestone, cereals. Score: 87


Ardmore 2012 100 Proof #21 12 yo : Slightly younger, but mostly aged in Bourbon casks that have previously passed through Islay, this is not at all the same profile as the previous one, even though it comes from the same distillery.
The nose is more coppery, sustained by lemony peat, white fruit and mineral notes, iodine, limestone. Fresh palate, white fruit and lemon, lovely spices, long finish, blond tobacco, cola, wood. Score : 87


Caol Ila 2015 100 Proof #10 8 yo : A good range isn't a good range without Caol Ila. And so here is the first in the range, aged in a blend of 1st Fill Oloroso Sherry Butts and Bourbon Hogsheads.
Pure Caol Ila profile, ashy sherry, dark chocolate, imposing iodine, limestone and quartz. On the palate, milky vanilla, dessert cream. Powerful finish, full of cloves and smoked ham. Thick layer of ash. Score: 87


Caol Ila 2013 100 Proof #11 10 yo : Another Caol Ila, a little older, but this one is aged in 2d Fill Rum Barrels. This promises a lot of sugar.
Peat and icing sugar. Ashy smoke, white fruits. Nice fullness of iodine. On the palate, vanilla pulp, cane sugar. Long, warm finish of wood and charcoal. Score: 87


Bunnahabhain Staoisha 2013 100 Proof #13 10 yo : Even more peat with this one, although it's relatively old, and aged in 1st Fill Oloroso Sherry Butts.
Right from the nose, it's strongly mineral and chalky. No fruit, just peat, salt, quartz and tide. On the palate, seawater, oysters, shellfish, razor clams and whelks, lively spices. Long and powerful finish, very maritime, coal, cola, foam, earth. Score: 87


Glenburgie 2008 Exceptional Cask #2 15 yo : A 15 year old Glenburgie, aged entirely in 1st Fill Oloroso Sherry Butts, is bound to be interesting at this price.
On the nose, vegetable freshness, black radish, beetroot, old wood. On the palate, it's citrusy, with lemon and breadcrumbs, a strong spiciness. Long finish, but lacks a little flavour. Score: 88


Macduff 2007 Exceptional Cask #3 16 yo : A 16 year old Macduff, still in 1st Fill Oloroso Sherry Butts, which we don't disdain in principle, especially at this price.
Very Sherry and very round on the nose, dried fruit, dates, raisins, apricots. Gooseberries. Very smooth on the palate, as if coated in caramel and chocolate, with a long and complex, woody, chocolatey finish. Score : 88


Craigellachie 2007 Exceptional Cask #4 16 yo : 16 years old, 1st Fill Oloroso Sherry Butts, Craigellachie, what more can you say? The price is definitely a bargain.
Pleasant spring freshness, dried fruit dipped in caramel, creamy honey. Lemony notes. On the palate, soft caramel, fudge, medlars, long, powerful, very controlled finish, chocolate, coffee. Score : 88


Linkwood 2013 100 Proof #19 10 yo : This Linkwood is aged in 2d Fill Oloroso Sherry Butts, which promises not to smother the distillate.
Beautiful fruity fullness, redcurrants, green apples, juicy pears, peaches. The Sherry is discreet. Very velvety on the palate, with soft caramel and dates. Long and powerful finish full of chocolate. Score : 88

 
Glen Ord 2012 100 Proof #22 11 yo : This one is aged in 1st Fill Bourbon Barrels, which is quite rare in this range.
Pears and citrus fruits, white gooseberries, country notes, hay, fresh earth. On the palate, a balance of lemon, vanilla, dried fruit and hay. Grapefruit on the finish, young wood, shortbread biscuits. Score: 87

 
Secret Speyside 2010 100 Proof #16 13 yo : This one is a real secret, no one really knows where it comes from, some say Glenfarclas, but nothing for sure. In any case, it's a blend of 1st Fill Oloroso Sherry Butt and Bourbon Hogshead.
The nose is shy, but not unpleasant, with cereals, nuts and pear. The palate is very well crafted, with citrus, orchard fruits and melted butter. The finish is pleasant, very controlled, with chocolate, tobacco and coffee. Score: 87

 
Tullibardine 2015 100 Proof #2 8 yo : We are promised big Sherry with this one, aged in 1st Fill Oloroso Sherry Butts.
Muffled, woody Sherry, dried fruit and red fruit, grapes, apricots, redcurrants. Mushrooms and damp wood. On the palate it's velvety, toffee and baked apple, long, quiet finish, almond paste, bark. Score: 87


Mannochmore 2012 100 Proof #13 11 yo : Aged again in 1st Fill Oloroso Sherry Butts, it's a parade of Sherry Bombs.
Very Sherry on the nose, with varnished wood and red fruit. Beautiful roundness. Very fruity on the palate, with muscat grapes, redcurrants and red fruit. Finish with meaty notes, mushrooms and coffee. Score : 87


Auchroisk 2010 100 Proof #12 13 yo : 1st Fill Oloroso Sherry Butts, at the risk of being boring. It's true that they make a lot of them, but with a 13 year old, it's tempting.
Very well developed Sherry, crushed raspberries, redcurrants and red grapes, woody notes. The palate is a little pale, but not bad, hints of strawberry, smoked ham. Finish a little short, chocolate, coffee, bark. Score: 86


Miltonduff 2011 100 Proof #14 12 yo : And finally this one. Still aged in 1st Fill Oloroso Sherry Butts, you don't change a winning team.
A little woody smoke, intense red fruit, redcurrant and raspberry purée. On the palate, very decent, still very Sherry, cherries, blackberries, blueberries. Well-crafted, long finish, red fruit coulis. Score: 87


What I gain from it : 
  • The quality is variable, and I would even say that sometimes you get the impression that the distillery has seized the opportunity to get rid of superfluous casks. In any case, it's never really bad, the power makes up for the flaws, and it's much more often a success than a failure. 

 

  • It's true that Sherry is an important selling point. It has its qualities and its faults. Those who like Sherry Bombs will be well served. Others may complain that some bottlings are too Sherry, and that you can't smell anything of the distillate. Both will be right, but it has to be said that the products on offer are very varied, and there's something for everyone. The range can't just be summed up as Sherry, there are lots of other things.

  


  • Some of the bottlings are really successful. Sometimes, it's because the distillery is very good, and you can feel it, so I'm thinking of the two Macallans, which are certainly the two best bottlings in the range apart from the Exceptional Casks (and still!), the Ben Nevis and the Orkney, which are really well done. Bunnahabhain #7, Ardmore #4, Linkwood #19 and Glen Ord #22 are also fine. Other times, it's because the maturation has worked well, in this case I'm thinking of the Miltonduff #14, the Glenrothes #6, and all the Exceptional Casks. Unfortunately, the latter are much more expensive.

 
  • As far as discovering new distilleries is concerned, yes, there are some interesting opportunities. But it has to be said that, most of the time, the Sherry casks make it impossible to detect the precise character of the distillate. I wonder if this isn't because, quite simply, these lesser-known distilleries have little character. Is it better to coat them in Sherry, or let them flourish? I don't have an answer to that question. But I do note that the very well-known distilleries remain very good whatever the ageing.



  • My ratings are relatively consistent, although the bottlings are often very different, and leave mixed reviews. That's because, while almost all bottlings have their faults, they also have their qualities. And, with such a high alcohol content, the finish is always quite powerful and long. This gives some bottlings a chance to catch up. 

 
Conclusion : 
I would advise anyone interested in this range to find out more beforehand. Read some of the consumer reviews and perhaps taste it if you get the chance. Some of the very Sherry bottlings may not be to your taste. On the other hand, there are also some nuggets, and then you have to hurry to buy one before it sells out.


In any case, I recommend leaving the bottle to rest for a few weeks after opening. Sometimes the casks leave too strong an influence, but once the whisky has had time to breathe, the balance settles. This is true of any bottling, but particularly of these.

On the whole, it's an interesting range, with powerful products at low prices, but you shouldn't limit yourself to that. They don't have the subtlety and length on the palate of a Single Cask, so it doesn't replace them, it's just a new type of product.


Personally, I'm very happy to own certain bottles, but on the other hand, I have my doubts. They're rustic and friendly bottlings, sometimes very seductive, but their power means you can't drink them in every situation. And that's my problem. When I feel like drinking an uncomplicated whisky, without spending hours on it, I prefer it to be lower in alcohol. And when I want to linger over a whisky, to enjoy discovering all its nuances, I prefer a Single Cask.


The 100 Proof range therefore offers some nice surprises at an unbeatable price, and an opportunity to discover some distilleries, but it is also too strong for an entry dram or a daily dram, and not subtle enough to compete with most single casks. It has its qualities, and its limitations.

 
That's why the price doesn't seem so cheap to me. It's cheap, of course, but the Exceptional Cask sub-range is less advantageous, and you can sometimes find Single Casks at almost the same price. People say they're cheap because they're compared to Single Casks, but that's not the point. Most of them are clearly not as good. It has character and strength, but not subtlety.


The fact remains that, with this range, Signatory has broken down a wall and made certain products more accessible - a small upheaval in the world of whisky.


Thursday, 31 July 2025

Kilchoman 13 yo Limited Edition

 
 
 
50°
Distillery : Kilchoman - Islay 
70% Bourbon Barrels, 20% Bourbon Octaves and 10% Calvados Casks
Original Bottling 
Limited Edition 
Single Malt 
Bottled in 2025
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured
Peated around 50 ppm
 
 
 
In 2024, they started releasing aged bottlings, at the time it was a 16-year-old, and this year it's a 13-year-old. As if to soften the distillate, Calvados casks were added to classic Bourbon casks, and other Octaves, which speed up maturation. But in fact, an Octave Cask normally has a capacity of 50 to 60 litres, whereas these have a capacity of 100 litres. They should therefore be called Quarter Casks. In any case, these are very large Octave Casks.
 
 
 
 
Let's Taste It : 
Imposing, dusty peat, ashes bathed in honey, gum arabic, candied apricots. Oriental pastries like zlabia or baklava, lightly sprinkled with pistachio. All delicately woody. Brewer's yeast. A hint of pineapple and grapefruit. On the palate, it's even sweeter and fruitier, barley sugar, lemon zest, banana, papaya, white grapes, peach and greengage. The spices are tamed. The finish is fairly powerful, of medium length, liquorice, dried fruit, dates, fruit pastes, marrons glacés, honeyed walnuts.
 
In Short, 
It's a good idea to soften the distillate with Calvados casks, but here I find that it doesn't work perfectly. The minerality of the Kilchoman profile is lost, as is much of the peat power, and the result is a little too gentle for my taste. However, it's up to each individual to decide what they prefer, and others are sure to like it. Perhaps a younger distillate would have been better. In any case, I wouldn't recommend buying it, even though I applaud the experimentation.
Score : 88 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                           To Be Listened While Sipping : 
 
                                           Greet Death - Country Girl

Monday, 21 July 2025

Strathmill 2012 100 Proof Edition #36 12 yo

 
 
 
57,1° (100° Proof)
Distillery : Strathmill - Speyside
1st Fill Oloroso Sherry Butts
Independent Bottling 
By Signatory Vintage 
Limited Edition 
Single Malt 
Bottled in 2025
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured
Totally Unpeated
 
 
 
It's been a long time since I've been back in the 100 Proof range. And this is the opportunity to discover a new distillery, the 108th distillery I've tasted in Scotland. It's a little-known distillery because the vast majority of its production goes into blends, particularly the all-too-famous J&B. Here, we have the Single Malt version, aged in 1st Fill Oloroso Sherry Butts, which should be better.
 
 
 

Let's Taste It : 
It's warm and woody, pine needles, resin, herbal notes and caramel, walnuts, crushed acorns, bark, some cereals. Apricots, soggy leather, dates, green tomato fritters, acacia honey, crushed banana. It's round, supple and velvety on the palate, quince jelly, a touch of exotic fruit, wood varnish, and some very powerful spices. Ample, devastating finish, charcoal, earth, dark chocolate, pipe tobacco, cola, noble wood, fairly long, slightly bitter, liquorice, artichoke hearts.
 
In Short, 
It's nice and interesting, very woody, but with little bitterness, the spices are intense on the other hand, but I think that will disappear with aeration. All in all, it's an experience. It's clear that this distillery is made for blends, to go well with grain whisky. Here it's a little more than good, it's balanced, and it tends towards a certain complexity. At the price it's being offered, a purchase is conceivable.
Score : 87   
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                           To Be Listened While Sipping : 
 
                                           Bjorn Riis - Fear of Abandonment

Friday, 18 July 2025

Line Up #29 : Talisker, the Diageo Special Releases

14 December 2024. 
 
 
A bit of History : 
The Diageo Special Releases first appeared in 2001, and Talisker was part of the first batch, with the Port Ellen 1st Release. After that, there were 2 releases in 2002, one in 2003, as in 2004 and 2005, two more in 2006, 2007, 2008 and 2009, and only one in 2010. Then nothing in 2011, but they made up for it in 2012 with a 35-year old, one more in 2013, but then nothing. That makes 17 limited editions, all between 20 and 35 years old, and all historic. This is certainly the pinnacle of what Talisker can offer us. In 2018, however, Talisker is back among the Diageo Special Releases, but with much younger products. 8-year old in 2018, 15-year old in 2019, 8-year old in 2020 and 2021, 11-year old in 2022, and even a NAS in 2023. In 2024, it's an 8-year old again. So we're now on the 24th Talisker Release, and the next delivery will arrive next September with a 14-year old, which I hope will be good.
 
 
The Line Up Concept : 
I've only tasted a few editions of the Diageo Special Releases old series, but they are absolutely epic. As for the new series, what is it worth? What's the point of featuring Talisker again in these Releases? In my previous Talisker Line Up, I more or less came to the conclusion that only the Diageo Special Releases were really worth looking at. The 10yo from the regular range has some definite faults, the 18yo is very good but far too expensive, independent bottlings are very rare, and the value for money is rather depressing. The 25yo is astronomically expensive, even though there's nothing exceptional about it in my opinion. And I'm not talking about the multiple NAS, Storm, Skye, Dark Storm, Select, none of which I'm happy with. I tasted the Wilder Seas and thought it was pretty good, but it's hard to find. This confirms that only Diageo Special Releases combine satisfactory quality, fairly wide distribution and a nearly reasonable price.
 
 
But not all Diageo Special Releases are created equal. Some are much better than others. That's the aim of this tasting, to separate the wheat from the chaff, and to recommend the good stuff. Perhaps we can also see a certain continuity in these Releases, some common markers.
 
 
Some bottlings have little nicknames, like The Rogue Seafury or The Beast from the Deep. I'll spare you these details, but I think you'll be grateful.
 
 
The Tasting : 
Talisker 11yo Special Release 2022 : This is the quietest of the Diageo Special Releases. It combines a relatively low alcohol content with the lowest possible peat content. This brings out the best in the rest.
Very maritime profile, seaweed, kelp, the sweetness of Bourbon in the background, then it becomes salty, coarse sea salt, foam, sea spray. Light, crystalline peat. On the palate, the Bourbon takes over again, with honey and vanilla, beautiful spices, cloves, cumin, white fruit. Quite a long, powerful finish, salt, charcoal, limestone. Score : 88
 
 
Talisker 15 yo Special Release 2019 : This is the oldest of the new series, and also the best. The maturation is relatively simple, which brings out the best in the distillate.
The nose is complex, floral, maritime and fruity. The distillery profile is perfectly recognisable, salt, sea spray, seaweed, kelp, but with an unusual depth. Melting caramel, almonds, honey. Prickly pears. On the palate, it's suave, superbly balanced, limestone and creamy vanilla, lychee. Very powerful finish, dragon fruit, a touch of wax, cola, nutmeg. Score: 90
 

 
Talisker 8yo Special Release 2020 : This one was finished in rum casks, which is rather worrying. How does the costal distillate go with rum?
The influence of rum is important, cane sugar, agave, vanilla, papaya, lychee. A hint of smoke, mirabelle plums. Herbaceous notes, reeds. Very smooth on the palate, with spices galore. Candle wax, lychee. Long, powerful finish, a block of charcoal, banana, fine sand. Score : 88
 
 
Talisker 8yo Special Release 2024 : For this one, the maturation is normal, in Bourbon casks, but there's a finish in Stone-Spun Casks that seems odd to me. What's this thing about pebbles?
Lots of salt and tide, some mineral touches, sea breeze, kelp, even some fish. White fruit and vanilla in the background. On the palate, it's the same, foamy, coarse sea salt, a little custard, intense spices, pepper, cumin. Long and powerful finish, still very salty, lychee, foam, cola. Score: 89
 
 
Talisker 1982 Special Release 2003 20yo : This one is from the old series. Let's not get carried away, it's the last sample I have left. And given the way stocks are disappearing, I have no idea when I'll have any left in my glass.
Various fruit compotes, brioche bread, soft caramel, iodine, sea air, chalky touches. Almond paste, old leather. Silky, maritime palate, with fruit in the background. The peppery note is still there. Deep salt, which breaks down into several slices on the finish, which is very long, fiery, caramelised, nougatine, macadamia nuts. Clove. Score: 91
 
 
Talisker Special Release 2023 : No age, and on top of that a finish in different types of Port that is highly suspect. I dip my lips in anyway, cautiously.
On the nose, white peaches, lychee, small Swiss cheeses full of sugar. The tide is there in the background. Quite creamy, rather pleasant. Quite good on the palate, a little too sweet for my taste though, cane sugar, reeds, banana. Long and powerful finish, white grapes, sugar paste. Score: 88
 
 
Talisker 8yo Special Release 2021 : This is a highly peaty Talisker, without doubt the most peaty Talisker there is, with very discreet maturation in Bourbon casks.
The peat is imposing, maritime, set against a beguiling smoke. The tide is there, the foam, the sea spray. Iodine. On the palate, maritime freshness, lychees, juicy pears, intense spices. Violent, powerful finish, full of limestone and quartz. Coal, rocks lashed by the waves. Reeds. Score: 89
 
 
What I gain from it : 
  • There are, of course, the well-known Talisker hallmarks: fairly pronounced costal nuances, a few mineral touches, not too strong peat, but also smooth, sometimes exotic fruits, which give a great richness of flavour. It's worth remembering that this is an excellent distillery.
 
  • These are very reliable bottlings, and the quality is there. I'd recommend the 2019 above all, which you can still find at auction, but also the 2021, the 2022 and the 2024. That said, despite the rum or port finish, it must be said, it's never bad.
     
  
  • There is a gulf between the old series, which lasted from 2001 to 2013, and the new one, which began in 2018. From the age of 20 onwards, Talisker's distillate is extremely rich, deep, full of various fruits, dried fruit, exotic fruit, a real festival. Every Talisker enthusiast should try it at least once.
     
 
  • I missed the 2018, but I tasted it a few years ago. From memory, it seemed good, but a little too influenced by Bourbon casks.


Conclusion : 
Yes, Talisker is best represented by Diageo Special Releases. And even if those in the new series may be disappointing compared to those in the old series, they're still the best on the Isle of Skye (sorry Torabhaig, but you're too young yet). That said, despite the quality, there are still a few obstacles to avoid. Firstly, the price isn't cheap for an 8-year-old. But you can make an effort. Then there's the question of avoiding outlandish experiments, and on that subject I've read that the casks for the next edition, due out in September, have been toasted with volcanic rock. Are you serious? These people really have a problem with pebbles. And why not rocks from the Moon while we're at it? In short, it really is time for Diageo to stop doing this. Talisker is never better enhanced than with Bourbon casks. This distillate needs casks that aren't too invasive to bring out its authenticity, the costal and mineral nuances, the yellow and exotic fruits. This is true of many distilleries, but particularly of this one.


I'm not saying that these odd experiments are a failure, you always have to be creative in the whisky world, and to be honest, I gave high ratings to the editions finished in rum or port casks, because they deserved it. But I prefer the pure Talisker profile, when it's not hampered by any original cask. In that regard, I'm not too keen on Port Ruighe either. That's why I found the Special Release 2024 so interesting. It's a return to the roots, to more traditional maturation, which suits me. Why don't they always do it this way? As with Lagavulin, very simple ageing in Bourbon casks, very fine differences over the years, and always the Talisker identity that stands out. The distillate is excellent, it doesn't need to be masqueraded with Port or Rum. A little Sherry might do it some good, but not too much. The Special Release 2021 is interesting because it doesn't dull the character of the distillate. The same goes for the 2024. Has anyone found that the pebbles change the taste in any way? If not, so much the better. Marketing is always looking for something new, but that's not necessarily a good idea. What you need is stability. True whisky lovers need to know what they're going to find. They need to know that they'll get a real bottle of Talisker every year. When the customer knows what he's going to find, that's when he's sure to buy.
 

Monday, 14 July 2025

Line Up #28 : Port Askaig, a nostalgic rediscovery

15 November 2024. 
 
 
A bit of history : 
The Port Askaig brand was created by the Singh brothers, who own The Whisky Exchange, the independent bottling company Elixir Distillers (which was called Speciality Drinks before 2017), and the Tormore distillery, which was bought from Pernod-Ricard in 2022. Port Askaig is a small village on the Isle of Islay, located to the south of the Caol Ila distillery. As you might expect, the Port Askaig brand will be an opportunity to showcase Caol Ila's products, even if not all Port Askaig bottlings are Caol Ila. There are reputedly a few from Bunnahabhain, but that's all officially secret, of course. This brand was born in 2009, with a Cask Strength, a 17 year old, a 25 year old and a 30 year old. Then came the expressions that would become the brand's flagships, the 100° Proof in 2015, and the 8-year-old in 2016. It became a household name, and some even thought it was a distillery in its own right. Each year, a number of limited editions were launched, some of them very interesting. 
 

Then, in 2023, the Singh brothers launched a complete overhaul of the brand. The 100° Proof disappeared, to be replaced by a Cask Strength, which would be available in new batches each year. The 8-year-old was completely redesigned, with a different maturation, and a 17-year old appeared, which would now be part of the Core Range, along with the two expressions mentioned above. 
 
To be honest, I had mixed feelings when I discovered these new expressions. The Cask Strength seemed better than the 100° Proof, but the new 8yo didn't seem as good as the old one, and the 17yo was of limited interest to me.


The Line Up Concept : 
It was at this point that the idea of a Line Up dedicated to Port Askaig was born, which would be devoted not to the new releases that I liked less, but to the old Port Askaig, the ones that created the event before the 2023 redesign simplified everything. To give you an idea, in 2023, 4 limited editions were launched, in addition to the 3 new expressions of the Core Range. And the following two years, nothing, or almost nothing. A single limited edition in 2024, and a new Cask Strength Batch. In 2025, two limited editions for the time being. Clearly, this wasn't just a re-branding, it was a sort of sidelining.
 
So I'd like to explore the Port Askaig of the days when this brand was the talk of the town, alongside some of the Single Casks. Some bottlings were popular, even sought-after, and sold out fairly quickly. This is no longer the case. The recent limited editions are old (15 or 25 years) and expensive, and enthusiasts know that value for money is not very attractive at this level.
 
 
The Tasting : 
Port Askaig 8yo Old Version : It appeared in 2016 and disappeared in 2023. At that time it was matured entirely in Bourbon casks, whereas the current 8yo is matured in a number of Sherry casks.
Airy iodine, with a hint of vanilla, honey and icing sugar. Oysters and scallops. Light but unctuous palate, with some seaweed and seafood. Long, ashy finish, with walnuts and white fruit. Score: 86
 
 
Port Askaig 2004 Bourbon Cask 14yo : It's a limited edition launched in 2018. It was rumoured to be Bunnahabhain, and I think it is. At the time, connoisseurs thought it was a good ratio of age to price.
Beautifully nuanced, mellow nose, marzipan, resin, waxy smoke. Quince jam, melting caramel. A little disappointing on the palate, not very expressive, despite spices and nuts. The finish is pleasant but a little short, with cake batter, sponge cake and filled biscuits. Score: 86
 
 
Port Askaig 1983 34yo : Sometimes Port Askaig would bring out antiques like this. They even released a 45 year old. This one is from early 2019, it's a Single Cask, and it's a Caol Ila.
The nose is just perfect, between fruit paste, stuffed fig, waxy smoke, semi-salted butter, glazed chestnuts, hints of salt and honey. Glints of soot, quince topped with caramel. Old waxed wood. Mirabelle plums. The palate is full of fruit, dates, apricots, chestnut purée, delicate oak and powerful spices. Long, even interminable finish, cola, duck confit, dried banana, liquorice. Score : 91
 
 
Port Askaig 10th Anniversary 10yo : This one was released in 2019, it was a limited edition of 10,000 bottles, to celebrate the 10th anniversary of the brand. Rumours have been rife about the distillery of origin, but I'm willing to bet it's a Caol Ila.
It's the usual profile of iodine, foam and rock, but with hints of honey and fruit. Subtle caramel and chocolate. A hint of lemon. On the palate, oily oysters, honeyed vanilla, with a good dose of peat, intense spices. Long, powerful finish, warm chestnuts, oak bark, cola and toffee, deep oak. Score: 88
 
 
Port Askaig 2012 Nouvelle Vague Limited Edition : This one was reserved for the French market, and is a blend of Bourbon casks with a virgin cask. I bought it because I thought it was well made. It's almost certainly a Caol Ila too.
Delicate woodiness, with chocolate cake batter, hot chestnuts, cigar ash, then you recognise the distillery's maritime profile, iodine, foam, sea breeze, kelp, but it's very balanced, vanilla and lemon, then a touch of meat. On the palate, the wood stands out, but also white fruit and honey, with lively spices. The finish is long and explosive, again very woody, but with a warm, friendly woodiness, caramel and resin, and a dash of aniseed. Score : 88
 
 
What I gain from it : 
Port Askaig is first and foremost an ode to Caol Ila, or at least that's how I understood it. Almost all the bottlings of this brand are Caol Ila, in all its forms, Bourbon, but also Sherry or virgin cask. A tribute to this distillery that never disappoints. Of course, there may be forays into other distilleries, but this remains occasional, as the main aim is to make Caol Ila. But what for? 
 
It's about making Caol Ila, but Caol Ila that's different from their usual Original Bottling range. Something more rustic, simpler, more inviting. Something that's easier to drink. In this regard, the 8 Year Old Version was just what was needed: a typical Caol Ila with plenty of iodine and limestone, mineral notes galore. When the distillery does its own bottling of Caol Ila, it makes subtle, measured blends. Even the Moch is relatively complex. The Caol Ila bottled by Port Askaig, on the other hand, is simpler, which is logical since the Singh brothers have less stock.
 
 
This gives Caol Ila a new patina, a different, more direct profile that connoisseurs will appreciate. First of all, there's the appeal of the price, then the appeal of greater strength, since it's more than the 43° preferred by the regular range. But above all, there's the appeal of a new vision of Caol Ila, something of what this distillery would be like if it were run by another group.
 
It's not better, but it's interesting, it's like discovering another facet of something you appreciate, and that you didn't suspect at first. And I fear that the new range will erase that.
 
Of course, I'd have to do a tasting of the new Port Askaig range, but I found the bottlings to be complex, nuanced and subtle, rather like the regular Caol Ila range. So what's the point? Price? Competition is now fierce, and prices are no longer really advantageous compared with the original bottlings.
 
 
Conclusion :  
This is just my personal opinion, but if it's just to make a slightly less good Caol Ila, what's the point of this Port Askaig brand? The old range, as I've highlighted it here, had real appeal. It was more rustic, a bit like Caol Ila revisited by Brora, an old school Caol Ila, but also more experimental. What's the point of losing that original identity to make something that's just a pale copy of the regular range? 
 

Maybe I'm getting a bit carried away. As I've already said, the new Cask Strength is better than the old 100° Proof, and perhaps the 17yo has its appeal, given the current price of the 18yo in the regular range. There will always be customers for this Port Askaig collection, even if they release fewer limited editions, and I applaud that.
 
However, I can only express my concern. When you launch a new range, you chart a new course. Enthusiasts are very often disappointed by this new direction. I hope it's just a case of fear of the new, and that I'm a little mistaken. Time will tell whether Port Askaig really has a say in the identity of Caol Ila.
 

Sunday, 13 July 2025

Kilkerran Heavily Peated Small Batch Batch N°11

 
 
 
57,9°
Distillery : Glengyle - Campbeltown
90% Ex-Bourbon and 10% Sherry Casks
Original Bottling 
Limited Edition 
Single Malt 
Bottled in 2024
Unchillfiltered, Uncoloured, Cask Strength
Peated around 45 ppm  
 
 
 
Batch 12 was launched last month, and I realise that I haven't yet tasted Batch 11, of which I have not one, but two samples at my disposal. Since Batch 7, the maturation has been the same. On the other hand, peat levels appear to have fallen sharply, with the distillery now reporting a content of 45 ppm. This is surprising, but that doesn't mean we will notice the difference. Beyond a certain point, the nose is no longer able to assess the peat, anyway.
 
 
 

Let's Taste It : 
Quite dry smoke, tall grass, fire in the meadow. The peat is thick, notes of cowshed, earthy hay, animal sweat, then a delicate hint of candy cane, sweet almonds, fresh cream. Perhaps a drop of honey. Vanilla butter, citrus zest, grapefruit and lime. On the palate, the markers of Bourbon regain some of their strength, with a trace of limestone, malty touches, vanilla, white grapes and mirabelle plums, but very quickly quite strong spices, and a rather long, almost explosive finish, more cereal-like, slightly woody, a tiny taste of bitterness, cola, black radish.
 
In Short, 
I've read here and there that the profile is more or less the same as Batch 10, but I don't think so. I'd even say that each Batch has its own identity, and this one is more vegetable, even herbal. Whereas Batch 10 was more resinous and almondy, and Batch 9 more fruity and buttery. So this one is more rustic, perhaps a little more austere than the previous ones, and I like that. The last two Batches were more pleasant, more approachable, but this one is a return to Batch 8, which I thought was rather violent, but a bit monochrome, whereas this one combines violence with a bit of complexity. So, in my humble opinion, this is one of the best Heavily Peated releases of recent years, probably the best. The price hasn't changed, and there are even a few promotions around, so I'd advise you to have a look.
Score : 88
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                           To Be Listened While Sipping : 
 
                                           Mangrove - Fall